L-Shape got a Brazilian!

[Dom]

Wow, The Boulevard got a Brazilian. I can only assume this is the work of Greg H. Good Job! Even the 10 ft to get on the Waterwalk ledge has been scrubbed. This will be a really good moderate climb at L-Shape.

Also, We got on Friction addiction yesterday. Cool line with bomber gear. I climbed Mantle piece as well the other day and this is another route that has been resurrected. Good job Shawn!

[Adam]

yah friction addiction is a great addition! nice crack!

[Greg]

Wow, The Boulevard got a Brazilian. I can only assume this is the work of Greg H. Good Job! Even the 10 ft to get on the Waterwalk ledge has been scrubbed. This will be a really good moderate climb at L-Shape.

I was surprised at how easy it was to clean it, probably owing to the dry summer we had. The second pitch could use some more scrubbing but the first should be in good shape. There are actually four different lines that will get you on top of the Waterwalk ledge now. I would suggest 5.7 for anyone looking for a more accurate present day grade for The Boulevard. I know Mike and Pierre climbed it on Sunday and found it to be in that range.

By the way...with permission from the fa I plan on moving the Astroboy Direct rap station up about 10 feet to the nice comfy ledge. This would be a much better location for this anchor. The anchor will serve at least 3 different routes.

[Shawn B]

Any consensus on friction addiction grade? Much steeper when on it than it looks from the ground.

[Dom]

Any consensus on friction addiction grade? Much steeper when on it than it looks from the ground.

It's a little harder than Waterwalk but it's easier than Trundling by moonlight...So I'd say it's either a hard 5.8 or a soft 5.9.

[Shawn B]

So 8+??? Or how 'bout 9-???

I found friction addiction a bit harder on the FA than trundling. The bolt will hold a fall. I'll use the 28 degree temp and direct sun as my excuse rather than my poor climbing ability. Was still a bit dirty too but I didn't think it would go at an 8 even once thoroughly cleaned. Low humidity prob makes it a bit stickier too.

[Dom]

So 8+??? Or how 'bout 9-???

I found friction addiction a bit harder on the FA than trundling. The bolt will hold a fall. I'll use the 28 degree temp and direct sun as my excuse rather than my poor climbing ability. Was still a bit dirty too but I didn't think it would go at an 8 even once thoroughly cleaned. Low humidity prob makes it a bit stickier too.

Yep weather will make a difference. Adam and I climbed it the other night when it was super windy and probably +10 outside. Friction was great on it. If you feel that it's harder or comparable to Trundling, then I'd leave it at 5.9 but it's your call. I'd also say it's more of a 9 than an 8.

[Dom]

Also, Shawn how long would you say this route is ? I estimated 90' from the very bottom to the Astroboy anchor when I put the route in the new routes log..

[Adam]

I'd say no harder than 5.8.

[Greg]

Wow, The Boulevard got a Brazilian. I can only assume this is the work of Greg H. Good Job! Even the 10 ft to get on the Waterwalk ledge has been scrubbed. This will be a really good moderate climb at L-Shape.

I was surprised at how easy it was to clean it, probably owing to the dry summer we had. The second pitch could use some more scrubbing but the first should be in good shape. There are actually four different lines that will get you on top of the Waterwalk ledge now. I would suggest 5.7 for anyone looking for a more accurate present day grade for The Boulevard. I know Mike and Pierre climbed it on Sunday and found it to be in that range.

By the way...with permission from the fa I plan on moving the Astroboy Direct rap station up about 10 feet to the nice comfy ledge. This would be a much better location for this anchor. The anchor will serve at least 3 different routes.

I managed to get this rap station moved up yesterday.