Cheekbone

[GKelly]

Curious, From the hardwood throat tree, Are most parties heading straight up the corner to pigeon ledge as per mountain project description? Following the guidebook I went left to another tree then back right over the giant detached bolder. What a ride. I wonder how long that corner can hold together.

[IanLingley]

I have always done the original and trend left then back right. I think the moves back on the block are great, and it gets you out of the corner for a bit. I haven't tried the direct but it look just as good, does it get dirty form stuff falling from pigeon flowers ledge?

[Dom]

I've done both and think the direct corner offers better climbing. 5.7 Juggy stemming overhanging dihedral vs 5.5 blocky climbing. The 5.5 is still kinda nice though.

When you guys climb the original, do you break it up in 3 pitches? The corner allows you to easily do it in 2. Actually, I'm pretty sure I could do the whole thing in 1 single pitch climb with a 70 and good rope drag management. I'll have to try it next time.

does it get dirty form stuff falling from pigeon flowers ledge?

A little but it doesn't detract from the climbing. Not nearly as disgusting as PS ledge. I hold my breath when I climb through Pigeon sh@t ledge

[STeveA]

The climb was originally done is 4 pitches because there was a lot more dirt and trees on the route. There also used to be some big loose blocks sitting on the slope as you traversed left below pidgeon flowers ledge. I assume they are gone now. It would be a super long single pitch; worth a try.

[GKelly]

Thanks for the input. I actually belayed a pigeon flowers ledge because I didn't realize how easy and short the rest of the route was. I will not make that mistake again. I wonder how long this route is going to hold together. The whole upper half appears to ready to let go at any moment.

[Greg]

I have always done the direct variation. It's a good climb - nice alpine feel to it. I have done it in three pitches but do it in two now. Pretty sure it could be done in one with a 70 and lots of runners. Would also be fun to simu-climb. I don't belay from the shite ledge for obvious reasons. The last time I climbed it was a year ago. I hear it is really dirty now. I wouldn't be too concerned about it falling down anytime soon.

[Shawn B]

I vote to offer it as a sacrifice to the peregrines. Other than the move off ps ledge the rest of the climb could be aptly described as what covers that same ledge. The few times I've done it I climbed it in 2. Does have a nice alpine feel and a historic legacy but the climbing really isn't very good.

[*Chris*]

This climb is an old filthy wench that weak-minded fools keep coming back to in hopes of a good time. Sooner or later... somebody is going to catch a nasty infection. Yet... for some reason... I always go back to visit her once a year.