Routes that could use a bolted anchor

[Dom]

Hey,

lets start a list of routes that could use a bolted anchor at Cl because the tree is dying, is too small, is out of the way etc.

From what I understand, Historically, route developpers have been using trees for anchors because 'they were there', not because they were against bolted anchors.

-Granite Planet intermediate anchor
-Weeping Whisker
- A warm and Sultry evening
-Sweet Potato Pie/Puff the Magic dragon
-Salt N Pepper/ 5.8 for style
-Kapow
-Bugs Bunny/Yosemite Sam

Any other routes you guys can think of?

Also, any opposition to updating these anchors?

[*Chris*]

Dom,
Just a note on Puff/Pie. I'd already contacted the FA to put in an anchor and attempted to do so last year when I did About a Rope. The rock quality at the top of Puff/Pie is terribly hollow. I pounded around with a hammer for quite a while before abandoning the project.

[Dom]

Dom,
Just a note on Puff/Pie. I'd already contacted the FA to put in an anchor and attempted to do so last year when I did About a Rope. The rock quality at the top of Puff/Pie is terribly hollow. I pounded around with a hammer for quite a while before abandoning the project.

I remember that. I might have to go higher up on the cliff to get a solid anchor in. Basically where SPP originally finished. It's always unnerving to rap from the tree anchor on Puff/Pie as that tree is quite small.

[*Chris*]

I'd be willing to give it another try and provide the anchor but my impression is that the quality goes down further as you get higher into those flakes. It's worth another look though. The main comment from the FA was that the route should finish no lower than the small tree. If suitable bolts are not possible... we should elect for a chain and some slow-release fertilizer.

[Dom]

we should elect for a chain and some slow-release fertilizer.

Haha Awesome!

[max]

hey dom,

i'm not apposed to bolted anchors at all.... a thought i have is if there is a solid tree there it is a great anchor... also setting up anchors on trees makes building anchors more creative which can help diversify a climber. just a few thoughts

[*Chris*]

If I recall correctly, the Talamalasca in the Upper Tier has an anchor of 2 standard hangers, only one of which had a maillon when I was last on it. I'd add that to the list. Swap the hangers for rap hangers.

[F Côté]

I think agent orange (upper tier) could use one. When I climbed it I thought the tree was really out of the way. Lots of rope drag.

[Fred]

The rock quality at the top isn't suitable for a bolted anchor which is why it finished at the tree.

[Dom]

I think agent orange (upper tier) could use one. When I climbed it I thought the tree was really out of the way. Lots of rope drag.

Use the bolted anchor on the 5.7 5' right of Agent Orange. If the second is leading, just lower back down. On the other hand, if you have a person seconding, it might be best to belay from the top. The only thing awkward about that is the dead tree that is in the way. I kicked it a bunch when I was on Agent Orange this year but I'll try to go up there and get rid of it.

[Dom]

I added an intermediate bolted anchor to granite planet. It is just above the little tree on that route. I also added tats with rings to the tree anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Furthermore, I replaced the Strata Factor 2nd rusty chain anchor with a Fixe euro anchor.

Now if welsford could dry up, I'd be able to go climb these routes. Everything was soaked yesterday - even at Sunnyside.

[theriault]

Franca and I added a bolted anchor to Wise Crack with the permission of the FA, so there is no need to go up to the tree on CheekBone anymore!