New routes 2012

[Dom]

TYLENUL 5.11c/d G 70'/M(6)/R(2)


When someones repeats this, please let me know what grade you think it is as I hate using slash grades but am really not sure on this one.

I felt like this was closer to 12a. Felt harder than trouble with lichen

-PJ

Good to know, I like how you compare it with Trouble with Lichen. That must mean you liked it hehe.
You're right that it's harder than TWL but I didn't think it was quite a 12. Then again, I sent it just after I had scrubbed it so I knew where the key holds were.

Cornifluge 5.12c 50'/M(4)/T

Grade needs to be confirm,

I would also call this climb 12a. Felt about the same difficulty as Tylenul, and definitely easier than Ra or Peer Pressure. Very cool route

-PJ

I also think this route goes in the 12- range. Didn't send it yet though.

[PeterA]

Good to know, I like how you compare it with Trouble with Lichen. That must mean you liked it hehe.

I did like it. The climbing was consistently varied and good. Nice face climbing down low to cool crack climbing up high. Three star route

-PJ

[Dom]

François and Shawn's first new route on the left end of the Attic.

PORCUPINE BBQ 5.11a 70'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: F. Côté, S. Fairweather 2012.07.08
FFA: S. Fairweather, F. Côté, D. Caron 2012.07.20
This route is located on the very left end of the Attic. Climb the sustained crimpy face and finish on a ramp that leads to the anchor. Great moves on typical Attic grainy crimps. Stick-clipping is recommended but not imperative.

As always grade needs confirmation. I personally find it comparable in grade to 8 four 7.

[ShawnF]

François and Shawn's first new route on the left end of the Attic.

PORCUPINE BBQ 5.11a 70'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: F. Côté, S. Fairweather 2012.07.08
FFA: S. Fairweather, F. Côté, D. Caron 2012.07.20
This route is located on the very left end of the Attic. Climb the sustained crimpy face and finish on a ramp that leads to the anchor. Great moves on typical Attic grainy crimps. Stick-clipping is recommended but not imperative.

As always grade needs confirmation. I personally find it comparable in grade to 8 four 7.

Thanks for posting the description Dom, also a big thank you for coming out and helping us bolt the route.

[theriault]

Cornifluge 5.12c 50'/M(4)/T
FA: L. Gallant, D. Caron September 2011
FFA: M. Theriault, L. Gallant, P.-L. Rossignol 18/06/12
At the very left end of the cliff you'll encounter two alcoves. This route is just left of Split Decision in the right-most alcove. Climb up the face and slopey arête that leads to a horizontal crack. After the crack climb up the overhang using crimps. Finish on the same pine tree as Serpents volants.


Grade needs to be confirm,

I would also call this climb 12a. Felt about the same difficulty as Tylenul, and definitely easier than Ra or Peer Pressure. Very cool route

-PJ

I just sent RA yesterday so now I have something to compare Cornifluge to since I redpointed both of them pretty much back to back…. I got RA in about 2/3 less tries than Cornifluge, I'm not saying its harder, but if you look at the math (num of attempt) for myself I still think Cornifluge is 5.12c… definitely harder than any 5.12a I ever did…. We need more sends on Cornifluge to settle the grade! Dom get back on it!!!!

[IanLingley]

There about 20 new trad routes at eagle rock, most of them are G rated and some are definitely classic.
Take a look most are on MP and I'm working on getting the rest of them there.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eagle-rock/107480585

[Dom]

There about 20 new trad routes at eagle rock, most of them are G rated and some are definitely classic.
Take a look most are on MP and I'm working on getting the rest of them there.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eagle-rock/107480585

Awesome that you guys put those up. It will give me motivation to go finish the two projects I have up there.

[IanLingley]

you have to get up there soon, you must be on week 5 of 6 on those projects.
Have you tried the one in the main area yet??

[Dom]

you have to get up there soon, you must be on week 5 of 6 on those projects.
Have you tried the one in the main area yet??

Yeah week 5 something like that .

I haven't tried any of them yet. The one in the main area still needs trundling because big blocks need to come down.
I'm gonna try to go work on them soon and also check out all the new routes you put up.

[GKelly]

Climbed dying embers today. It is a fantastic route but I think it is all of 10a. What do others think?

[Adam]

Climbed dying embers today. It is a fantastic route but I think it is all of 10a. What do others think?

i believe a hold broke near the crux a couple weeks ago. Melissa and Camilla I think were on it at the time. I haven't climbed it since so not sure if harder.

[Dom]

5.9+ = 5.10a. 9+ is an archaic grade for a sport route IMO. I also agree that it's a real nice route.

[GKelly]

Hmm... It seemed like there were lots of holds at the crux but it's quite technical for a 5.9. I agree about the plus grades. They are unnecessary.

[PeterA]

New route at the monster wall (known as the knee wall in the guidebook)

THE KRAKEN 5.12b/c 20'/S(2)/R(2)
FFA: P. Adamson, S. Launcelott, J. Adamson, C. Hall
Found at the right side of the Monster Wall, locate a horizonal crack with a large undercling in it at about 8'. Climb straight up through two bolts then clip the anchors from the jugs above them.

-PJ

[cory]

New route at the monster wall (known as the knee wall in the guidebook)

Why try and change the name?

[PeterA]

New route at the monster wall (known as the knee wall in the guidebook)

Why try and change the name?

Cause we don't like knee wall and prefer to call it monster wall. The name is just much more fun, more route name opportunities. Others can call it what they like though

-PJ

[Dom]

I just sent RA yesterday so now I have something to compare Cornifluge to since I redpointed both of them pretty much back to back…. I got RA in about 2/3 less tries than Cornifluge, I'm not saying its harder, but if you look at the math (num of attempt) for myself I still think Cornifluge is 5.12c… definitely harder than any 5.12a I ever did…. We need more sends on Cornifluge to settle the grade! Dom get back on it!!!!

I think grading goes beyond a mathematical equation. There's an 5.11d at Rumney that I've tried over 10 times and still haven't gotten it clean, yet I've onsighted 11+ before.

Shawn F. and I sent Cornifluge last night.
For Cornifluge I'd break it down to two V3/V4 with a really good rest in between the two boulder problems. Grading charts say V4= 5.12a?? I guess it's a bit like comparing Apples and oranges though. Anyways, by the time you're done the second boulder problem, you're a little pumped so I'd say it's either a hard 5.12a or a 5.12b.

[coryhal]

a few more routes at hampton marsh, and im working on a couple more.

Gordita – 5.11a g N/ (R2) 45 FEET FFA: Cory Hall, PJ Adamson July/12
This somewhat hidden gem is found by scrambling diagonally up and right, past orange choss cliffs, from the far right end of the roadside cliffs, about 200 feet up, into a short gully. Climb the crack on the left hand wall, steep at the bottom, to rap anchors. Great protection on rock that’s a lot better than the roadside cliffs, well worth the scree scramble.

Pure Grit – 5.10a r N/(R2) 60 FEET FFA: Cory Hall (rope solo) June/12
Scramble up to the far right end of the main wall. Climb a shallow corner, up the clean section, and sling a small horn at about 15 feet, you can nest small nuts 5 feet after that. Then work up and left past several horizontals, better protection, to old bolt anchors up top.

Shelob – 5.11c g N/ (R2) 40 FEET FFA: Cory Hall (rope solo) June/12
Climb the right trending, left trending crack found in the middle of the knee wall, aka the monster wall. Steep and pumpy, with good rock, and good protection.

[Dom]

211. BULLWHIP DAYS 5.11b 60'/M(3)/R(2)
FA: M. Leblanc, G. Losier 1996
FFA: D. Caron, A. Dowding 2012.06.25
Technical face climbing right of Astroboy Direct. Start at the rap station at the base of Astroboy direct and traverse on a horizontal crack to get to a bolted face split by more horizontal cracks. Bring small cams for the horizontal cracks. Nothing bigger than a 0.75 BD was used on the FFA.
Note: Route was bolted by A. Morgan who is expecting a new family member anytime now.

As always let me know what you think about the grade. Guidebook said 11c but I think that may be a bit soft? Also, I was led to believe that this route was super clean but didn't find it clean enough to my liking so will be back to scrub it pretty soon! Until then, don't hesitate to hop on it but don't complain if you find it dirty

I cleaned this route thoroughly today and added fixe ring anchors. This route is a mix of bone machine and astroboy direct so it's grreat! Get on it people!

Adam I have your biners that were left on the anchor.

[PeterA]

Another route at the monster wall

CHUPACABRA 5.11a 20'/S(2)/B(2)
FFA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet
At the far right side of the monster wall, right of THE KRAKEN, locate a sharp, horn shaped flake. Stick clip the first bolt then continue straight up. The actual climbing is to the right of the first bolt, but the best rock for a bolt placement was to the left.

[Shawn B]

New route in progress. Gallery wall. To the right of waterwalk and left of boulevard. Mostly cleaned but still needs some buffing. There is one bolt which currently does not have a hanger. Been tr'd but yet to see ffa. Expect to have it opened and ffa complete withing the next few weeks. Please do not lead.

[Dom]

Mt Doug

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10a 40'/S(3)/T
FFA L.Gallant, M. Theriault 15/04/2012
Climb the pocketed line just below the big pine tree on the ledge at the base of "Sunset Boulevard"

3 of us climbed this route today and thought it was definitely harder than 10a. More like 10d we thought. I compare it to Power of Oatmeal that I've climbed recently (10c, short) and Pas D'Flag is harder. It's a nice short route though! Stick-clipping it might not be a bad idea too.

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10d


Here are a few more shots from today at Mount Doug.

Kickstart 5.8


Deflector 5.10c


Serpents volants 5.8


Tylenul 5.11d

[IanLingley]

Hey everyone

A newly bolted climb at Kingston. Its a nice line that has been cleaned and TR'ed in the past. Thank you Greg for cleaning it.

One Vision 5.10b/c 30'

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/one-vi ... _107762239

[PeterA]

Two new routes on the monster wall

THE WOLFMAN 5.13a 25'/S(2)/R(2)
FFA: P. Adamson, S. Adamson August 2012
On the right end of the Monster Wall. Start on the same holds as THE KRAKEN, but instead of moving up and right, move up and left into the left-trending overhanging dihedral. Make hard moves up and over the dihedral, then latch the shelf at the top. Traverse the shelf right to the anchors of THE KRAKEN.

Here's a clip of the wolfman http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz1VNxDb ... e=youtu.be

SHARKTOPUS 5.12a 25'/S(2)/B(2)
FFA: P. Adamson, S. Adamson August 2012
In the middle of Monster Wall, Locate a sweeping, left facing dihedral, ending in a shelf beneath a small roof. Climb straight up the arete of the dihedral to a devious topout. Anchors are located on the shelf, below the roof.

Also, after a few repeats, CHUPACABRA has settled at 10d

-PJ

[Shawn B]

New route - Aug25/12
Friction Addiction - 5.9 G **
Gallery Wall - Start as per Waterwalk/Trundling and gain the first big ledge. Climb the back corner to the right of Waterwalk until the corner ends. Step right onto a small ledge and climb the low angle finger crack until it ends. Clip a bolt and make slab moves (crux) up and finish at Astroboy anchor.
FA S. Bethune, D. Hamel, T. Thibodeau Aug/2010
FFA S. Bethune, G. Hughes Aug/2012

Crux can be avoided by stepping left into Waterwalk but you miss the fun. Still needs some scrubbing but it is reasonable now. Suggestion to double up on purple, green and red Camalot.

[Shawn B]

With permission from the first ascentionist two bolts have been added to Mantlepiece. Now a good lead and freshly scrubbed. Super climb **. A bit of tricky gear at the bottom. Suggestion to take a 0 tcu/mastercam and a blue camalot for the crux. Finish at anchor on top of Trundling/Sparky Start. Sparky start also freshly scrubbed.

[PeterA]

This route is currently equipped with fixed draws, and can be easily worked. Well worth getting on. Steep, pumpy, powerful, and totally unique.

HADES 5.13b 70'/M(7)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, S. Adamson Aug. 2012
FFA: P. Adamson. S. Adamson Aug 2012
In the back of the ampitheatre, on the left wall. Start up the left leaning ramp that leads to Flight of the Valkyries, but cut up off the ramp before FOTV, heading straight up a crack, past a pin, into a small alcove. From the alcove, place a few pieces, then fire straight up the overhanging headwall past 7 bolts.

-PJ

[Greg]

Mt Doug

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10a 40'/S(3)/T
FFA L.Gallant, M. Theriault 15/04/2012
Climb the pocketed line just below the big pine tree on the ledge at the base of "Sunset Boulevard"

3 of us climbed this route today and thought it was definitely harder than 10a. More like 10d we thought. I compare it to Power of Oatmeal that I've climbed recently (10c, short) and Pas D'Flag is harder. It's a nice short route though! Stick-clipping it might not be a bad idea too.

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10d

I would tend to agree. 10a is not an accurate grade for this climb and 10d seems more like it.

[Greg]

With permission from the first ascentionist two bolts have been added to Mantlepiece. Now a good lead and freshly scrubbed. Super climb **. A bit of tricky gear at the bottom. Suggestion to take a 0 tcu/mastercam and a blue camalot for the crux. Finish at anchor on top of Trundling/Sparky Start. Sparky start also freshly scrubbed.

Thanks to Shawn for giving this route a thorough cleaning and paying for the bolts. This is a great line with an interesting crux and should see lots of traffic now.

[Greg]

New route at Kingston Crag. Pretty excited about this one as it is my step daughter's first FA.

Jughead 5.4 45’/S(5)/T
FA: S. Hughes, G. Hughes 2012.08.15
FFA: M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2012.08.26
Located just left of Aphrodite and right of Monster’s Garden. Easy, fun climbing on big holds to Yellow Birch tree anchor.