Celestial Motion

[sam]

I was at sunnyside last week and somebody (I assumes someone from St. John, didn't recognize them and we didn't exchange names) mentioned as I want to climb Celestial Motion - that a hold had been broken and it "made the route a lot easier".

I climbed it and it felt easier than I remember, however that could simply be because I've become a stronger climber since I last climbed it...

Either way the crimpy start *felt* the same, and I couldn't really tell anywhere on the route what might have broken.

Can I get confirmation on this? And as to which hold was broken, if any?

[Dom]

I climbed it about 3 weeks ago when I installed the quick-clip anchor. It felt the same. I can't see a hold breaking making that much of a difference?
I think this route has bad deck fall potential at the 2nd bolt. I've seen more than one climber stick-clip the 2nd bolt and I would recommend anyone with a limit near 5.10 to do the same.

[sam]

Okay good to know, it didn't *feel* any different, only easier because I hadn't climbed it in a few months.

And yeah, I can see how that would be a risky spot. I climbed it on top rope, said to myself "this is way easier than I remember", took the anchor down and did it on lead immediately after

[Ken P]

I was on it last night - the broken hold might be a tad deeper, hardly noticeable. But it's not at the crux.