Left a quickdraw on Stairway

[sam]

I forget the route name, but the wall was Stairway (between Joe's Garage and Upper Tier). I left the draw on the 2nd bolt of the 5.9+ route there.

It's brand new so it sucks that I had to leave it... I figure it's probably a goner - but on the off chance that the person who recovers it is a forum user and/or unb club member, I would appreciate having it back!

I'll post a picture of the draw when I get home tonight as I have 5 more identical ones.

[Shawn B]

just a fyi...most places in welsford can be accessed by walking around to the top and rappelling down to get any bail gear...some are easily accessed others need caution and perhaps even a belay to safely scramble along ledges (usually dirty) to get to a tree that you can use.

[GKelly]

One could also rap off a single biner if necessary. At least you would spare your webbing and the second biner.

[Dom]

It's called ''It's about Time'' and it's quite a committing short route. Good but definitely spicy.

[sam]

Yeah that was it, thanks Dom.

Hopefully somebody can recover my draw - and yeah, in hindsight I should have just sacrificed my crappy locking biner Oh well now I know for next time!

PS: What would you specifically grade the route? Or is it "5.9+" because it's 'somewhere in between 5.9 and 5.10'?

[sam]

Oh and PPS: at the end of a ~9 hour climbing day, Austin explored around / above Stairway for a way to rap down and get the draw but we were very tired so we just bailed and I left it.

A picture of the draw for reference sake:



(DMM Aero)

[austinconrad]

Oh and PPS: at the end of a ~9 hour climbing day, Austin explored around / above Stairway for a way to rap down and get the draw but we were very tired so we just bailed and I left it.

More like Austin was exhausted and fumbled with the rope for 15 minutes, dropped his ATC and belay biner, raped off a munter and swore that he hated climbing all while getting laughed at only to realise that he was allmost 100 feet to the left of stairway :S Hahaha ya then we gave up

[Dom]

These work well to bail from routes. Cost about 3$ at Canadian tire


There's also the texas rope trick to bail from a route and leave nothing behind but it's too dangerous to explain on the internet.

[sam]

More like Austin was exhausted and fumbled with the rope for 15 minutes, dropped his ATC and belay biner, raped off a munter and swore that he hated climbing all while getting laughed at only to realise that he was allmost 100 feet to the left of stairway :S Hahaha ya then we gave up

LOL yeah that pretty well sums it up.

These work well to bail from routes. Cost about 3$ at Canadian tire


There's also the texas rope trick to bail from a route and leave nothing behind but it's too dangerous to explain on the internet.

Good idea on not explaining that Maybe @ Rock School!

And thanks for the tip, I'm going to pick some of those up tonight after work.

[theriault]

There's also the texas rope trick to bail from a route and leave nothing behind but it's too dangerous to explain on the internet.

Wicked trick!

[Caldsy]

There's also the texas rope trick to bail from a route and leave nothing behind but it's too dangerous to explain on the internet.

I know this isn't what you are talking about Dom... but I laughed pretty hard when I saw this!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sAoRNYG0bw

[Dom]

There's also the texas rope trick to bail from a route and leave nothing behind but it's too dangerous to explain on the internet.

I know this isn't what you are talking about Dom... but I laughed pretty hard when I saw this!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sAoRNYG0bw

Haha that guy is a little strange. He came to Cl a few years back and found my friend Delphine's climbing shoe. He brought it back to Canmore with him and then started asking around on other forum who had lost his shoe in Welsford. I emailed him saying it was my friend's shoe and he said he'd ship it back in return for a videoblog about climbing in the East. I was gonna do it but my friend left Canada to go live on Martinique Island and so she didn't need the shoe anymore... So my story kinda sucks but man that guy had some weird things to say in his emails. Strange dude for sure!

[austinconrad]

Ya he's a strange guy for sure! If you watch any of his videos he keeps randomely changing his name between Mike and Joe for some reason. Good videos though! Most of them are pretty entertaining to watch. Did he record any videos when he came to CL? Why was he in NB?

[Dom]

Ya he's a strange guy for sure! If you watch any of his videos he keeps randomely changing his name between Mike and Joe for some reason. Good videos though! Most of them are pretty entertaining to watch. Did he record any videos when he came to CL? Why was he in NB?

Yup his email is JoeMckay something but he would sign them Mike. He didn't record videos when he came to Cl. He was probably in NB because he was sick of plugging gear in chossy limestone

[GKelly]

He has some really great videos. I learnt a lot from him when I was starting out.

[austinconrad]

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/activ ... g-2011.pdf

This manual also has a pretty cool way of lowering off one piece using a prussik that would minimize a fall in the event the top piece blew.

[cory]

Interesting, climb650, thanks. In theory this could even work if the rope were to be damaged from rock fall or pinching/abrasion.

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/activ ... g-2011.pdf

[Fred]

dido what Cory said... I just learned something new.

thx for that link

[austinconrad]

Interesting, climb650, thanks. In theory this could even work if the rope were to be damaged from rock fall or pinching/abrasion.

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/activ ... g-2011.pdf

Not a problem! Petzl has a few other manuals like this with pretty simple/ingenious ideas.