What cams + nuts to buy for a starter trad rack?

[sam]

They have a 25% off sale going on for ALL cam's @ http://www.mountaingear.com right now, and I've been looking to get a trad rack for some time now... figure it's a great opportunity. Before I buy it though I figured it would be best to get some outside input as to what exactly a beginner trad rack should consist of.

I also asked this question on another climbing board (reddit.com/r/climbing), and they explained that it also depends on my area. An area with a lot of off-width cracks means I would use #4-#6 more often, etc.

So, trad climbers of this forum; what cams should I get? What cam sizes are kind of not needed for NB (CL mainly) climbing?

For a nut set, I was looking at: http://puu.sh/JZLa

And for a possible set of Cams, I was looking at: http://puu.sh/JZIK

As for which brand (camalots, dragons, etc) I have no idea.

If any of you are willing to offer your input, I'd appreciate it!

PS: I plan on taking my trad gear out for the first time with extremely experienced, PAID instruction (perhaps Greg Hughes). I want to know how to use the gear before I use it

[austinconrad]

For nuts I woud suggest DMM Walnuts over BD stoppers and for cams I suggest BD for the mid to large sizes and metolius for the smaller stuff. For a starter rack you dont need anything bigger than a number two BD and maybe a number three once you get the other sizes filled in.That being said the best plan is to second someone and see what they use.

[Dom]

Hey Sam I suggest you start by reading this http://climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6529&p=34061&hilit=trad+rack&sid=d43cfbd7479fc2b4db71f4f61630cb8a#p34061

If I were you I may hold off on the small sizes Metolius for now because BD is coming out with new small cams next Spring. http://climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7456
You can get by with 0.5-3 BD and a set of nut on easy trad climbs in Welsford. After that, harder and longer climbs will require more pieces. You should get all the info you need in the first link I posted.

[GKelly]

I would recommend doubles of .3 to 2 bd cams. Definately get the .3's. They are super useful at cochrane lane. Many will say you don't require a full double rack but when you are starting out you are going to be placing tonnes of peices and you will need them. I would go with dmm nuts. They set easier than bd nuts in my opinion. I rarely use my number 3 cam in CL and don't even pack a #4.
as for the small cams I agree with above. Either metolius or wait for the new bd's. You will get by on all the easier routes without anything smaller than a .3 (correct me if I'm wrong)

[*Chris*]

Definately get the .3's

Disagree

At that size I'd try and find something with a much more narrow head. Either Mastercams, Aliens, or whenever the new BD's come on the market.

Sam, I think your idea about spending some time with Greg is on the right track. Good luck and have fun.

[theriault]

Nuts, I would go with a set of Astro nuts for the small sizes! and for small cams, If you can get your hands on (pre thumb loop style) 0.1 and 0.2 C4, they are my go to cams! but very hard to find

[Dom]

Definately get the .3's

Disagree

At that size I'd try and find something with a much more narrow head. Either Mastercams, Aliens, or whenever the new BD's come on the market.

Disagree. At that size I have something with a narrower head (Yellow C3) and 90% of the time I will use my 0.3 C4. Love that cam but I'd still wait as they will have that size in the new X4.

[SteveK]

Definately get the .3's

Disagree

At that size I'd try and find something with a much more narrow head. Either Mastercams, Aliens, or whenever the new BD's come on the market.

I've got the smallest Mastercams (0 and 00) and start with BD's at .3. I can't say anything about the Mastercams or Aliens at that size but I find the BD .3 and .4 are my favorite cams. I always find a good place for them and they almost always feel bomber.

Disclaimer: I'm a relatively new Trad leader as well so take what I say with a grain of salt.

[*Chris*]

SteveK: I have the .3 and .4 BD cams as well as the overlapping sizes in Mastercams. Also, I've climbed using aliens, C3s, TCUs, and zeros as well. In those sizes... BD C4s are at a disadvantage sometimes due to their relatively wide head. In strait parallel cracks it's not an issue; however, when you are dealing with irregular cracks a narrow head sometimes helps you slot in a cam in little micro-pods... which helps to bury the lobes in deep. Knowwhadimean? In my opinion... the C4's are best in sizes .5 and above.

[theriault]

I have C4, TCU, and Master Cams in those size, I think they get used at a 33.3333 % split rate.... this is Welsford, every piece has his place here... Pick one type and double with an other...

[austinconrad]

I agree that 0.5 and up are good for BD cams and the rest I'd go with another brand with a narrower head. To answer your original question I think the two links you posted for the nuts and cams are excellent choices so if you have the money buy them now because 25% off on climbing pro is a sweet deal!!!!!! The rest you can fill in as you go and once you second a few routes you'll have a much better idea what you need to fill your rack with. If you're a gear junkie like me you'll have a good selection withing a few months BTW wanna go climbing Sunday ?

[sam]

So here's what I ordered:

1 - DMM Wallnut Set (#1-#11)
2 - Camalot C4 Cam Set (#0.5->#3)

I'm going to hold off until spring to purchase the fancy new BD Camalot X4's (http://vimeo.com/45890691)... for the time being I think the above is suitable for a starter trad climber The good part is that I mostly climb with Austin (Climb650) who has a pretty extensive trad rack... so anything I might be missing for the rest of this climbing season, I'm sure he can lend me one for a climb.

I greatly appreciate all the help I've received on this forum, I'm glad it won't be going away any time soon!
Thanks guys!

PS: Yep I'm down for sunday Austin, text me