Loch Lomond

[STeveA]

If anyone is looking for a different area to climb, and an adventurous outing, I would recommend trying Loch lomond. I went there on Sunday for the first time and it offers a unique experience. You need a sailing vessel (kayak, canoe, boat) to get to the cliff. You belay from the canoe, and rappel back into the canoe. The cliff is about 70' high, but the routes seem longer.

While the routes are mostly bolted, I would call it Sporty rather than Sport climbing. The climbs will test your mental ability as well as your physical. Joe has put a lot of work into bolting the cliff, and if his plans for adding a few more bolts take place it may be less Sporty and more Sport in the future.

If you decide to boulder around the base be aware that a slip will get you wet, just ask Jon!

[GKelly]

I agree that the climbing is pretty interesting. The rock looks quite bad but it climbs great. We were out on Saturday. It was a great place to be on a hot day. My only negative though on the place is the bolt spacing. The risk of 20+ foot falls on "sport" routes just does not seem right. It is true that the climbing in these more run out areas is quite easy but given the crumbly nature of the rock even the hardest of climber could potentially take the big one just by blowing a hold.
Maybe I am just a sissy after spending a weekend at kamou.?.

[STeveA]

Definately a Sporty rather than a sport climbing area.

[Joe]

I have added more bolts to Trixie, Californian Hookers and Venus Beach. These routes are now definitely "sport" and not "sporty". However I did not add additional bolts to Surfin', so this line is still sporty. (I had to leave one for excitement!) Be aware that Tabernac Crack needs 2 small cams, and Tequila can use 1 large nut, in order to prevent runouts.

I also bolted Walalala 5.7 15m, 8 bolts. Madeline Kennedy, my 16 year old daughter, took the FA, on-sight too. It's still a bit dirty but I'll scrub it more in a few weeks.

I tried to update the guide on the "sticky" section but ended up deleting the entire post. So attached is the updated guide.