Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

[CaliMan]

Donate to the NB Rock Hardware Fund!

All money collected will be used to purchase bolts, hangars, drill bits, etc., and passed on to those in the New Brunswick rock climbing community that are involved in bolting.

Thanks for your support!

[Dom]

Looks great Cal!

[Dom]

Donate to the NB Rock Hardware Fund!

All money collected will be used to purchase bolts, hangars, drill bits, etc., and passed on to those in the New Brunswick rock climbing community that are involved in bolting.

Thanks for your support!

We will continue to post who donated and what route it ended up covering just like I did by writing "the list". The main reason I wrote that list is not only to show who donated but also to be transparent.

[CaliMan]

Donate to the NB Rock Hardware Fund!

All money collected will be used to purchase bolts, hangars, drill bits, etc., and passed on to those in the New Brunswick rock climbing community that are involved in bolting.

Thanks for your support!

We will continue to post who donated and what route it ended up covering just like I did by writing "the list". The main reason I wrote that list is not only to show who donated but also to be transparent.

I left open a special comments text field for any crag/route suggestions.

[Stacey]

I could do that. Should it be someone in the club exec? Would it be outside club jurisdiction?

Haha I feel like starting a club and hardware debate but I won't. It falls outside club jurisdiction since the club never got involved in the rebolting process. That being said, it would be a nice gesture from the club to have a rebolting donation box at the wall on our behalf.

As a club member, I'd like to put forward that we (UNB R&I) consider making an annual donation to the rebolting process...as we hold rock school, etc. where some of this rebolting has occurred...

[seanT]

I just purchased a new Bosch Bulldog recently and still have the body of my old Anniahlater 24V drill, but NO battery..and cant seem to find the charger either.. If you guys think it could be of any use to you let me know its free.
SeanT

[Dom]

I just purchased a new Bosch Bulldog recently and still have the body of my old Anniahlater 24V drill, but NO battery..and cant seem to find the charger either.. If you guys think it could be of any use to you let me know its free.
SeanT

Maybe the UNB rock & Ice would want it?

I know I don't need it but thanks for the offer!

[*Chris*]

I guess I'll provide a bit of perspective about the club's involvement in bolting since It's been brought up.

The notion of UNB Rock & Ice funding hardware is not a new idea. It's been a recurring discussion ever since I've been involved. Each and every time it's been debated, the decision has ultimately been to stay out of direct involvement in adding bolts to Welsford. There seems to be a few recurring themes... both pro and con:

1) As you mention Stacey, our club members benefit from safe anchors / protection. Therefore it stands that we ought to chip in on the costs. Fair enough. Bolting is a very expensive proposition... particularly in years where there is a big push after discovering a new crag or in a year like this. Spreading that cost over a community certainly makes it more feasible to get the job done. No argument here. However, there are a few other considerations.

2) UNB Rock & Ice volunteers put in the sweat that earns the club's money. Therefore, that money belongs to them to spend as they see fit. The club exec tries to make spending decisions that will benefit most member volunteers. In years past, the majority of our volunteers didn't climb outside of the gym. Therefore, it was difficult to justify large purchases of outdoor gear over things like frequent renovations or frequent new holds. I see that dynamic changing a bit and most volunteers who help today are outdoor climbers. In part, I think that's a testament to the success of rock/ice schools and the great development that's occurred in recent years... particular on the sport climbing side. So... past financial obstacles to bolt funding may be reduced, particularly since we can't do renos anymore.

3) It's my understanding that the landowner has asked the club specifically in past years not to get involved in placing 'permanent installations' on their property. That language has been interpreted as including bolts. I'm not sure if that's still the case but if it were... it would be a major consideration. I certainly believe the landowner is well aware of what is being done at the crag.

4) Bolting (and even re-bolting) is not without the occasional controversy. Sticky Fingers is a prime case. Once the club becomes involved in providing the bolts, it becomes implied that it has 'approved' their placement. Quite simply, the club doesn't have the time or will to get rolled into these issues.

5) I'm not even going to talk about liability... cause those discussions often leave me frustrated.

At any rate, the balance which has been struck in the past has been to provide the community with 2 working hammer drills capable of the job. At present, we are shopping to replace the out-of-service Annihilator. It seems as if there are more and more drills around today than was in the recent past. In the past few years, we've also used club funds to purchase a supply of brushes available to anyone willing to scrub. If you think more should be done by the club... I'll pass that along to the rest of the exec. It's a view that I personally share.

While I really dig Calvin's initiative to create an account for community hardware funding, I certainly can't commit to any UNB Rock & Ice cash. It's more likely that the club would be interested in pursuing specific projects and purchases as they come up. For now, I think it's better left as an informal community fund.

[Stacey]

I guess I'll provide a bit of perspective about the club's involvement in bolting since It's been brought up.


2) UNB Rock & Ice volunteers put in the sweat that earns the club's money. Therefore, that money belongs to them to spend as they see fit. The club exec tries to make spending decisions that will benefit most member volunteers. In years past, the majority of our volunteers didn't climb outside of the gym. Therefore, it was difficult to justify large purchases of outdoor gear over things like frequent renovations or frequent new holds. I see that dynamic changing a bit and most volunteers who help today are outdoor climbers. In part, I think that's a testament to the success of rock/ice schools and the great development that's occurred in recent years... particular on the sport climbing side. So... past financial obstacles to bolt funding may be reduced, particularly since we can't do renos anymore.
.....
While I really dig Calvin's initiative to create an account for community hardware funding, I certainly can't commit to any UNB Rock & Ice cash. It's more likely that the club would be interested in pursuing specific projects and purchases as they come up. For now, I think it's better left as an informal community fund.

Thanks Chris, for providing some clarification on part from the club. These are definitely some valid points, and hopefully given the fact that the club schools are getting more and more people interested in climbing outside, as you mentioned, other ways of helping out will show themselves. I like the idea of specific projects, etc for the club.

One other suggestion may be to ask people when they pay their membership fees in September, if they would like to donate $1/$2 to the rebolting fund? just a thought...

[*Chris*]

Hey SeanT:

I think it sounds like we have the batteries for that drill. Ours is old and out of repair... so if you are willing to donate it to UNB Rock & Ice it sounds like we have a match. We'd certainly pay the shipping for you and we absolutely appreciate the offer. Any chance you could post up a pic of the drill so I can eyeball whether or not we indeed have the correct model battery? Maybe send me a P.M?

Thanks.

[CaliMan]

Donate to the NB Rock Hardware Fund!

All money collected will be used to purchase bolts, hangars, drill bits, etc., and passed on to those in the New Brunswick rock climbing community that are involved in bolting.

Thanks for your support!

I'm going to have to remake another account, apparently I can't claim we're a non profit organization without proof, heh

[Dom]

Donate to the NB Rock Hardware Fund!

All money collected will be used to purchase bolts, hangars, drill bits, etc., and passed on to those in the New Brunswick rock climbing community that are involved in bolting.

Thanks for your support!

I'm going to have to remake another account, apparently I can't claim we're a non profit organization without proof, heh

That sucks. Since we're not really an organization, we don't have any proof. So what's the difference between a non profit account vs a regular account? Does it cost something for the regular account?

When you have the new account made, just send me the link and I'll edit the NB rock hardware fund URL.

[Stacey]

perhaps you could just list it as a not-for-profit instead ?

[granite_grrl]

I just purchased a new Bosch Bulldog recently and still have the body of my old Anniahlater 24V drill, but NO battery..and cant seem to find the charger either.. If you guys think it could be of any use to you let me know its free.
SeanT

Here's a thread on Ontario Climbing about breathing life back into an old drill. I hope the pics on the third page aren't too upsetting.

http://ontarioclimbing.com/forum/index.php?topic=181.0

[granite_grrl]

I just purchased a new Bosch Bulldog recently and still have the body of my old Anniahlater 24V drill, but NO battery..and cant seem to find the charger either.. If you guys think it could be of any use to you let me know its free.
SeanT

Here's a thread on Ontario Climbing about breathing life back into an old drill. I hope the pics on the third page aren't too upsetting.

http://ontarioclimbing.com/forum/index.php?topic=181.0

And I just remembered you have to log in to actually see anything. Sorry about that.

[*Chris*]

Installed a rap anchor today at the top of Ejaculator and cleaned up all the old tat. That tree was dumb. Small... and significantly dying back.

Also scrubbed the top half of Waterfall Layback. The bottom was soaked so I didn't bother trying to clean that. After feeling justified in top-roping due to it's condition young hot-shot Aaron strolled past me and led it, soaking and all... using good crack form. Made me feel like a total wanker. What an arsehole!

[Dom]

Installed a rap anchor today at the top of Ejaculator and cleaned up all the old tat. That tree was dumb. Small... and significantly dying back.

Good work. That route is definitely classic!

Also scrubbed the top half of Waterfall Layback. The bottom was soaked so I didn't bother trying to clean that. After feeling justified in top-roping due to it's condition young hot-shot Aaron strolled past me and led it, soaking and all... using good crack form. Made me feel like a total wanker. What an arsehole!

Thanks for cleaning that. I think a few climbers had the intention of cleaning it but never got around to it.
Also, from my experience I've noticed that the bottom is always soaked. So giv'er next time. When you reach the ramp you have time to clean your shoes and wipe your hands.

Was slippery when wet dry?

[*Chris*]

Was slippery when wet dry?

Yes. Notwithstanding your point about the the bottom always being a swim-up.

[Dom]

Was slippery when wet dry?

Yes. Notwithstanding your point about the the bottom always being a swim-up.

It's too bad the bottom of those routes is always wet...The climbing is pretty mellow but the protection is really scarce. I think someone proposed adding a bolt there but the idea was shut down faster than Justin Bieber at a Heavy Metal concert.

Waiting for mid-July is another option...

[*Chris*]

Personally, I'm o.k. with waiting until conditions are right or I'm feeling scrappy enough. Waterfall Layback's ramp has already had 2 bolts retro-added. For me, I guess waiting for the right combination of factors is just part of the game.

[theriault]

-The Power of Oatmeal ( 1 bolt ) rebolted/hardware donated by Marty

This route was also cleaned with the help of Gab, this is a great short route that needs more traffic!

[Greg]

-The Power of Oatmeal ( 1 bolt ) rebolted/hardware donated by Marty

This route was also cleaned with the help of Gab, this is a great short route that needs more traffic!

Thanks for your hard work guys!

[theriault]

-Dykes on Bikes rebolted by Marty and Gab, hardware donated by Luc
-Tipsy rebolted by Marty and Gab, hardware donated by Luc

These old bolts where some of the worst I have seen since the rebolting project started, all where broken in one hit! scary!

[Dom]

Good Job Chris, Marty, Luc and Gab who have continued to donate time, effort and hardware to the rebolting project in 2012.

Here is the updated list:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Honey Pot
-Waterfall arête
-Waterfall Layback anchor added by Dom, hardware donated by Calvin T.
-Tit for Tat
-About a rope anchor added by Chris N., hardware donated by Marcelle
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty and Gab, hardware donated by Luc
-Tipsy rebolted by Marty and Gab, hardware donated by Luc
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by Stef K.
-The Central Scrutinizer rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Perfect rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Witches rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Talamasca rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Bugs Bunny rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet anchor added and rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Stef K.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor anchor rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Stacey
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.
-Think pure thoughts (1 bolt+ anchor)
-Ejaculator Bolted anchor added and donated by Chris N.
-The Power of Oatmeal Rebolted by Marty and Gab, hardware donated by Marty

[STeveA]

Honey pot has been rebolted.

[theriault]

Honey pot has been rebolted.

The whole Dawn Wall is now rebolted

[Dom]

Honey pot has been rebolted.

Hey Steve has Honey Pot been rebolted since PJ said this? (right after his RP of the route)

Tack another one to the list. The old bolts on Honey pot need to be replaced. We replaced 3 of them. There is an intermediate anchor on this route for rapping it with a 60m, it has one new and one old bolt

-PJ

If I understand correctly PJ (or Jon or you) replaced some bolts on it but not all of them. Before I put it on the list as rebolted, I wanna make sure it has been fully rebolted.

[STeveA]

I would trust PJs comments rather than mine. Keep it on the todo list for now.

[theriault]

Dom, i confirm the whole wall has new hardware, i checked it yesterday

[Dom]

Hey Marty Honey pot is not on dawn wall hehe. It's affected by the closure right now.. I know the routes in CL too well...I'm kinda like a climbing geek