Quick-Clip Anchors at Sunnyside

[*Chris*]

On Tuesday night, I added another set of quick clips to the growing count at Sunnyside, which now includes Entanglement. This is starting to make evening sessions really fast. Climbing in a party of 3 with a party of 3, Hennigar, Stef, and I were able to get through 23 quick pitches in about 3 hours. Suffice to say... we're probably not the quickest party and I did hold them up for a good 5 minutes installing the new chains. It's getting so that I have to actually think about having to bring anchor gear on the odd climb. What does that leave for quality lines that ought to have them installed?

[Dom]

Thanks Chris! Sunnyside is starting to feel like Rumney.

I added chains and biners to the anchors of the two 5.10a on the left (Smells like rain and Awe) this Winter.
-Another quality line that would benefit from quick-clip biners is Dying Embers. (hint hint FAist)

Also, just a friendly reminder that quick-clips are made to lower-off. If you are going to set up a TR, please put up your own draws and the last person of the group can clean and lower-off the quick clips. That way the biners on the chains will last much longer and won't look like these in the picture.

[Dom]

Hey I'm wondering if anyone out there has old Carabiners to donate for the Quick-clip anchors at Sunnyside and Cedar point. There are still more routes to equip with these highly convenient anchors and I've used up all my old biners (donated about 10). So clean out the garage/shed and put these old notched biners to good use! On top of this it gives you the opportunity to buy new light notchless biners after you've donated you're old obsolete biners! Locking and non-locking biners are accepted, Maillons are also in demand!

PM me if you got some

Also, thx to Fred, Chris N. and Marty for also donating their old biners!

[Ken P]

Got some!

[austinconrad]

Got two lockers I could donate. I have wayyyy too many lockers

[Andrew]

-Another quality line that would benefit from quick-clip biners is Dying Embers. (hint hint FAist)

Also, just a friendly reminder that quick-clips are made to lower-off. If you are going to set up a TR, please put up your own draws and the last person of the group can clean and lower-off the quick clips. That way the biners on the chains will last much longer and won't look like these in the picture.

If anyone wants to install quick clips on my behalf (for Dying Embers, Snakes & Arrows or For the thrill of it all), just email me F2E8 at hotmail dot com and I'd likely be happy to cover the cost. Due to work schedule, I'm currently unable to get to the cliffs very often.

Otherwise, I'll see about getting it done when I can.

Glad people like the route. It is my favorite of all the ones I've put up at Sunnyside.

[Andrew]

Somehow I managed to mess up the way the quote came out.

The text that says it's "Quoted from Dom" should actually be my response to Dom. The other is the quoted text from dom.

[Dom]

Huge thanks to Ken who donated 16 biners. Lots of anchors will now have the NB homemade quick-clips! including Dying embers. So, Andrew don't worry about paying or anything.

[theriault]

Also, thx to Fred, Chris N. and Marty for also donating their old biners!

I think you forgot Luc, he also donated a bunch

[Andrew]

Huge thanks to Ken who donated 16 biners. Lots of anchors will now have the NB homemade quick-clips! including Dying embers. So, Andrew don't worry about paying or anything.

Awesome! Thanks everyone. I'll likely be back in action in the fall season.

[Dom]

Since Ken gave me biners, I bought some chain and maillons and installed quick-clips on Heartbreaker, Monkey see donkey do, Thunder, Black dwarf, Dying Embers and Two Armed Bandits.

One of the maillons, I actually found it as a booty on the first bolt of Superstar and it was completely open ?? Whoever left it there, thanks for donating to the community

Also, Brian N. gave 2 biners for the quick-clip project yesterday, thanks Brian!

[GKelly]

I witnessed a rope open a maillon while it was pulled through. Something to consider.
Something to consider. It's a good idea to flip it so the gate is on the upper end.

[Dom]

Installed long chains and biners on Celestial Motion last night. If I'm not mistaken, I think this was the last route that required quick-clips.

A few don't have some though because:
A. The lower-off is not good for the rope (e.g. All Hail)
B. Another quick-clip anchor is very close (e.g. Adam Smasher, Finger Fear)
C. They are trad route at Sunnyside so they never get climbed (e.g. H-Bomb, Snakes and arrows)
D. Tree anchor (stairway, highway to hell)

The rest should have some

For those of you who have never climbed on Whether wall, it's the time to do it. Every route on it was dry last night. They're all good routes with neat features. Also, I think Drizzle is 5.11a, not 5.11d. Who else has climbed it that could confirm this?

[Leehammer]

Also, I think Drizzle is 5.11a, not 5.11d. Who else has climbed it that could confirm this?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3856&p=19336&hilit=drizzle#p19336

[sam]

A few don't have some though because:
A. ...
B. ...
C. They are trad route at Sunnyside so they never get climbed (e.g. H-Bomb, Snakes and arrows)
D. ...

I think they should be made into sport routes

[theriault]

I think they should be made into sport routes

NO!

[sam]

Sport4life!

Though I do have a trad rack coming in the mail, as it was an inevitability of climbing @ CL for the most part.

To each his own

[Adam]

I think they should be made into sport routes

If it were at CL of course I'd say no, but they're at a sport cliff, and they get barely a couple sends per year and are getting quite dirty. the jams are slippery with the moss build up. for this reason i'd tend to agree.

[*Chris*]

I've discussed the topic with the FA of H-Bomb, Nuclear Sausage Particles, and Man-Up-Beaver. Since he's not a member of the forum I can tell you that he does not want to see bolts on these lines.

[austinconrad]

Samuel Stiles wrote:
I think they should be made into sport routes


NO!

I agree! there are enough sport routes at Sunnyside. I don't see how making these trad routes into sport routes will imporve the crag.

[sam]

I am inclined to agree with *Chris*. I don't think it's at all appropriate to disrespect the FA'er by bolting their route (their project, that they put who knows how many hours into in order to perfect). If they wanted it to be a sport route, it would be a sport route. And, as Chris said, he is actively opposed to the idea of bolting them.

By no means did I ever intend on my joke (making a jab at the trad climbers of the forum) turning into a legitimate discussion as to whether or not the trad routes @ sunnyside should be bolted.

My advice to the sport connoisseurs (like myself); let's just make new routes like crazy, stealing all the space at the cliff, before the trad climbers get a chance to set anything else!

[sam]

Oh, and;

[Adam]

I've discussed the topic with the FA of H-Bomb, Nuclear Sausage Particles, and Man-Up-Beaver. Since he's not a member of the forum I can tell you that he does not want to see bolts on these lines.

oh i know he doesn't want them bolted. just voicing my opinion. would bolting them make the crag better? only in the sense that more people would actually climb the routes. seeing them get dirtier and dirtier doesn't make people want to climb them. and no, i'm not suggest we go bolt it against HBomb's wishes (or Burley as i believe he was co-FA on one or two of them).

[Dom]

A few don't have some though because:
A. ...
B. ...
C. They are trad route at Sunnyside so they never get climbed (e.g. H-Bomb, Snakes and arrows)
D. ...

I think they should be made into sport routes [/q

I've discussed the topic with the FA of H-Bomb, Nuclear Sausage Particles, and Man-Up-Beaver. Since he's not a member of the forum I can tell you that he does not want to see bolts on these lines.

oh i know he doesn't want them bolted. just voicing my opinion. would bolting them make the crag better? only in the sense that more people would actually climb the routes. seeing them get dirtier and dirtier doesn't make people want to climb them. and no, i'm not suggest we go bolt it against HBomb's wishes (or Burley as i believe he was co-FA on one or two of them).

Agreed, they never get climbed ever! Hey Andrew would you be willing to give the ok to bolt your pg trad routes at sunnyside.

Again if this was Granite like in Cl we wouldn't even be talking about this...but it's not so it's a valid discussion IMO. In Rumney they have been retrobolting seldom climbed trad routes and now they see traffic.

When I set-up routes my objective is for others to also enjoy it. It feels gratifying when someone comes up to me and says ''Hey man climbed your route X, it's awesome..."

Kinda like people said for your route Dying Embers Andrew. Now how many people said that for the PG trad routes you've cleaned at Sunnyside...Just a thought I'm not picking on you personally but on the fact that these routes are never ever climbed and it's a shame...


My 0.02$

[Fred]

I think they should be bolted.

[sam]

All this "bolt the trad!" talk not even a week after I order a trad rack...

[Caldsy]

Agreed, I'd like to get on some of those routes within my climbing abilities but won't be unless bolted!

It's a sport crag unlike CL..

[PeterA]

This is a definite non-issue. FA doesn't want the route bolted, the route doesn't get bolted.

Agreed, I'd like to get on some of those routes within my climbing abilities but won't be unless bolted!

It's a sport crag unlike CL..

You can always toprope them. A lot of the fun in climbing stems from having routes that aren't within our abilities. Gives us something to work towards, something to make us better

-PJ

[*Chris*]

Agreed, I'd like to get on some of those routes within my climbing abilities but won't be unless bolted!

It's a sport crag unlike CL..

Dan, not sure if this solves your issue... but I'd be glad to bring my rack, lead these routes, and give you a belay up them on top-rope. Anytime.

Also ... I'd probably have made similar statements 5 years ago. Now, I certainly see things in more shades of grey. My advice would be to anyone (not just Caldsy) that before calling for routes to be retro-bolted against the clear wishes of the FA, one should at very least climb them on top-rope first. After that, you may find that you'd like to save these routes in their present condition such that you've got the challenge to build up to in the future. Then again... you may not.

Out of all of this what I got is that Adam and Dom are volunteering to scrub these cracks!

[Fred]

I have lead them on gear but I still think they should be bolted. But I didn't say go bolt them. That is the difference.