3 Day trip suggestion

[tatsimaru]

I will be passing trough New-Brunswick at the end of july for a 10 day trip to Magdelan-Island. On our way back my girlfriend and I plan to spend a couples of day climbing in New-Brunswick. We both climb 5.10 or 5.11 in sport. I also lead trad but my girlfriend prefer sport. So do you have suggestion on good spot to visit and place to stay. I will try to find the New-Brunswick guidebook but local hint is always welcome.

[Dom]

Hey the epicenter of climbing in New Brunswick is located in the village of Welsford 25min North of Saint John. There are 5 crags around the village. Cochrane Lane is definitely the hot spot with its 300+ routes on beautiful granite but is definitely more of a trad area. Despite this, I definitely recommend hitting Upper Tier and the Attic there as it has a lot of bolt protected routes that take a piece of gear or two here and there. Joint Venture 5.10c is not to be missed!

Also, Sunnyside is a nice little sport crag with around 30 routes in the Welsford village area. The routes are well bolted and the grades are modern. You'll find routes from 5.7 to 5.12 here.

Mount Douglas is a newly developped crag and boasts some moderate sport climbing at ''Les Dalles de St-Anselme''. Si tu parles français, you'll understand that the routes here are slabby. The right end of the main face also has some nice mix routes. You can find info on that crag here http://climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6168

A place I would definitely recommend in the Summer is hitting Greenlaw at Saint Andrews. It's a bit of a detour (located in the Southwestern part of the province) but the routes here are really nice sport routes on Basalt and the scenery is really delightful! The Village of Saint Andrews is a nice picturesque village situated directly on the Bay of Fundy so I'm sure your Girlfriend (and you too) would love it!

As for camping, you're allowed to camp for free in Cochrane Lane either at the far end of the farmer's field in the Pine trees or on top of Exfoliated Wall.

In Saint Andrews, you'll have to go to a commercial campground but it's worth it!

Hope that helps, if you need more info shoot me a PM or just ask here. I'm sure others will weight in on what to hit when you're in NB.

[*Chris*]

Dom has it covered. All I can add is a map: Clicky

[STeveA]

If you are looking for sport routes, I would recommend Bald Hill. 40+ routes mostly sport and well bolted. You can camp at the cliff.