New routes 2012

[Dom]

I took advantage of a nice winter day to climb a project I had bolted in Sunnyside last week.

HIBERNUS 5.11a 35'/S(3)/R(2)
FA: D. Caron, M. Harnois 2012.01.29
FFA: D. Caron, M. Harnois 2012.01.29
This route has black hangers and is located to the right of 'Awe'. Crux start leads to a nice small roof/corner. Stick-clipping is strongly recommended.


Still not sure on the grade. I'll need confirmation as it's probably a V2/V3 that leads to a roof that was muddy and wet. I had to do a crazy kneebar beta to get past the small roof but I think dry it will be 5.9/5.10- so an 11a overall grade makes sense to me. Regardless others will have to confirm...I think I'll have to be patient until the route is repeated though

[Stacey]

NICE work Dom!

I think at least a new route for every month is in order, now that you bagged the hardest one (January)...

[theriault]

Mt Doug

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10a 40'/S(3)/T
FFA L.Gallant, M. Theriault 15/04/2012
Climb the pocketed line just below the big spruce three on the ledge at the base of "VAPOUR TRAILS"

[Dom]

Mt Doug

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10a 40'/S(3)/T
FFA L.Gallant, M. Theriault 15/04/2012
Climb the pocketed line just below the big spruce three on the ledge at the base of "VAPOUR TRAILS"

. Good job bolting that thing but I'm pretty sure it's below a big pine at the base of Sunset Boulevard hehe. Greg could confirm this.

[theriault]

Thats exactly it Dom

[Greg]

Mt Doug

Pas D'Flagossage 5.10a 40'/S(3)/T
FFA L.Gallant, M. Theriault 15/04/2012
Climb the pocketed line just below the big spruce three on the ledge at the base of "VAPOUR TRAILS"

. Good job bolting that thing but I'm pretty sure it's below a big pine at the base of Sunset Boulevard hehe. Greg could confirm this.

Yup, a big old white pine. Nice job putting this route up guys. I'm looking forward to climbing those pockets!

[theriault]

Pine/Spruce... same thing lol Get on it guy's, its a great short route! good way to access the ledge!

[Dom]

Finished cleaning and climbed a project I had bolted in Mount Doug this Winter.

TYLENUL 5.11c/d G 70'/M(6)/R(2)
FA: D. Caron, M. Harnois 2012.05.26
FFA D. Caron, M. Harnois 2012.05.26
On the left end of the main cliff locate the route with black hangers right of Idoprofen. A tough face start leads to the left end of the ledge. From the ledge clip the 5th bolt on your left and back-clean the 4th one to avoid rope drag. Climb sustained moves leading to a nice finger crack. After the crack ends, head left towards the anchor. The first bolt can be "stick-clipped" by simply holding on to the fixed nylon rope.

When someones repeats this, please let me know what grade you think it is as I hate using slash grades but am really not sure on this one.

[aaronhart]

had a big cleaning day at walk the plank in cedar point. its still a little dirty still but 7 hours of cleaning in on day is good enough. will be back there shortly to finish cleaning. also exposed 2 new variations to go up walk the plank not sure of names but i like a pirate them like barder for beer, sailor jerrys, and unbarried treasure. fun climbing

[Dom]

MONKEY SEE, DONKEY DO 5.10b 60'/S(6)/LO
FA: D. Caron 11/06/2012
FFA: D. Caron, M. Klompmaker, S. Fairweather 15/06/2012
Climb the bolted line with black hangers left of Entanglement on the left end of the Atomic Wall.

If you repeat it, let me know what you think the grade is. I knew it was in between 5.9 to 5.11- but wasn't sure exactly what grade it is. After, a few repeats from others, the grade has loosely settled at 10b but still not sure hehe .

[theriault]

Cornifluge 5.12c 50'/M(4)/T
FA: L. Gallant, D. Caron September 2011
FFA: M. Theriault, L. Gallant, P.-L. Rossignol 18/06/12
At the very left end of the cliff you'll encounter two alcoves. This route is just left of Split Decision in the right-most alcove. Climb up the face and slopey arête that leads to a horizontal crack. After the crack climb up the overhang using crimps. Finish on the same pine tree as Serpents volants.


Grade needs to be confirm,

[Leehammer]

Nice work Marty! I looked at that project a couple of times it looks sweet.
Is it mixed because you are placing gear in that horizontal crack midway up or for the topout?

[theriault]

Its for both (mid crack and top out), but I didn't use them on the FFA since I had my beta down... I would suggest using them onsight

[aaronhart]

cleaned walk the plank again at cedar point cutting pesky cedars climbers right and anchor area. so this place has become a great spot for beginners aswell. lots of fun climbing and everyone i have brought there has absolutely loved it. mary preferred it over a way of life at joes garage.

[Dom]

211. BULLWHIP DAYS 5.11b 60'/M(3)/R(2)
FA: M. Leblanc, G. Losier 1996
FFA: D. Caron, A. Dowding 2012.06.25
Technical face climbing right of Astroboy Direct. Start at the rap station at the base of Astroboy direct and traverse on a horizontal crack to get to a bolted face split by more horizontal cracks. Bring small cams for the horizontal cracks. Nothing bigger than a 0.75 BD was used on the FFA.
Note: Route was bolted by A. Morgan who is expecting a new family member anytime now.

As always let me know what you think about the grade. Guidebook said 11c but I think that may be a bit soft? Also, I was led to believe that this route was super clean but didn't find it clean enough to my liking so will be back to scrub it pretty soon! Until then, don't hesitate to hop on it but don't complain if you find it dirty

[theriault]

211. BULLWHIP DAYS 5.11b 60'/M(3)/R(2)

Good job Dom, I've been eyeballing this ling for 2 years now! time to get on her!!
Thanks for cleaning and bolting Adam!

[GKelly]

Looks spicy. How is the pro?

[Dom]

Looks spicy. How is the pro?

Hey Greg, it's not really spicy. So you start on the horizontal traverse where you can slot 2 cams about 5' apart. One of them is absolutely bomber. Make a move and then you clip a bolt. Then you get to the next horizontal where there are pockets for small cams. I slotted a grey Metolius master cam there and put a shallow 0.75BD. You could put a 3rd cam there if you wanted because none of them fit what I describe as 'bomber'. They're still pretty good though. You got the 1st bolt just below your feet at this point. After that you make two or 3 crimpy moves, clip the 2nd bolt and enter the crimpier crux. Get to the good holds, get your feet up then clip the 3rd and final bolt. Make a 5.10 move then you are on 5.9 moves for the last 15-20' on good gear. I'm not saying this is the best gear beta as I've only been on it twice.

I'll try to get a picture. Anyways, I think you should lead it, Marty too!

BTW with a 70 meter rope you can rap all the way to the ground.

[GKelly]

Sold!

[theriault]

So you start on the horizontal traverse where you can slot 2 cams about 5' apart. One of them is absolutely bomber. Make a move and then you clip a bolt. Then you get to the next horizontal where there are pockets for small cams. I slotted a grey Metolius master cam there and put a shallow 0.75BD. You could put a 3rd cam there if you wanted because none of them fit what I describe as 'bomber'. They're still pretty good though. You got the 1st bolt just below your feet at this point. After that you make two or 3 crimpy moves, clip the 2nd bolt and enter the crimpier crux. Get to the good holds, get your feet up then clip the 3rd and final bolt. Make a 5.10 move then you are on 5.9 moves for the last 15-20' on good gear. I'm not saying this is the best gear beta as I've only been on it twice.
.

There goes everybody's onsight..... anyone interested in the full beta for Cornifluge, its still fresh in my mind!

[Dom]

There goes everybody's onsight..... anyone interested in the full beta for Cornifluge, its still fresh in my mind!

I don't think this gives info to negate an onsight. It's incomplete gear beta. I'm not giving climbing beta you couldn't see from the belay.

For those that want the full gear beta it's on Mountain project in the comments section.


http://mountainproject.com/v/bullwhip-days/107676959#a_107676971

[Leehammer]

I'm not giving climbing beta you couldn't see from the belay

I slotted a grey Metolius master cam there and put a shallow 0.75BD. You could put a 3rd cam there if you wanted because none of them fit what I describe as 'bomber'. They're still pretty good though. You got the 1st bolt just below your feet at this point. After that you make two or 3 crimpy moves, clip the 2nd bolt and enter the crimpier crux. Get to the good holds, get your feet up then clip the 3rd and final bolt. Make a 5.10 move then you are on 5.9 moves for the last 15-20' on good gear

you must have amazing eyesight! <- the symbol for good eyesight

[Dom]

I eat lots of carrots

[Adam]

Also, I was led to believe that this route was super clean but didn't find it clean enough to my liking so will be back to scrub it pretty soon! Until then, don't hesitate to hop on it but don't complain if you find it dirty

Yeah I mighta overstated it's cleanliness. Have gotten pretty used to climbing dirty rock lately I think. It seemed clean enough

Good job Dom! - looking forward to getting on it eventually but I have another project underway that is kinda occupying my time for the foreseeable future. Hopefully sometime this summer I'll get down there and back in shape! ha

but yeah people get on it - it's got wicked moves and protects well and is a good addition to Joe's. there's also a direct start that will require a couple bolts and will likely clock in at mid 5.12 i think. pretty thin but definitely will go!

[Stef]

MONKEY SEE, DONKEY DO 5.10b 60'/S(6)/LO
FA: D. Caron 11/06/2012
FFA: D. Caron, M. Klompmaker, S. Fairweather 15/06/2012
Climb the bolted line with black hangers left of Entanglement on the left end of the Atomic Wall.

If you repeat it, let me know what you think the grade is. I knew it was in between 5.9 to 5.11- but wasn't sure exactly what grade it is. After, a few repeats from others, the grade has loosely settled at 10b but still not sure hehe .

Nice route! I think 10b is fair.

[Adam]

yeah 10b works for me.

also, if anyone gets on Bullwhip Days, there are two locking biners on the anchor that I would like back. I intend to replace them with maillons, just didn't have any at the time.

[Dom]

also, if anyone gets on Bullwhip Days, there are two locking biners on the anchor that I would like back. I intend to replace them with maillons, just didn't have any at the time.

Hey Adam,
Next time I'm up there I'll replace the anchor set-up with fixe rings. I have some here. Maillon anchors are a PITA unless the maillons are doubled I find. I will also scrub it and look at the potential harder start we had looked at last Fall. Not sure when though...

[Adam]

Next time I'm up there I'll replace the anchor set-up with fixe rings. I have some here. Maillon anchors are a PITA unless the maillons are doubled I find. I will also scrub it and look at the potential harder start we had looked at last Fall. Not sure when though...

sounds good - thanks!

[PeterA]

Finished cleaning and climbed a project I had bolted in Mount Doug this Winter.

TYLENUL 5.11c/d G 70'/M(6)/R(2)
FA: D. Caron, M. Harnois 2012.05.26
FFA D. Caron, M. Harnois 2012.05.26
On the left end of the main cliff locate the route with black hangers right of Idoprofen. A tough face start leads to the left end of the ledge. From the ledge clip the 5th bolt on your left and back-clean the 4th one to avoid rope drag. Climb sustained moves leading to a nice finger crack. After the crack ends, head left towards the anchor. The first bolt can be "stick-clipped" by simply holding on to the fixed nylon rope.

When someones repeats this, please let me know what grade you think it is as I hate using slash grades but am really not sure on this one.

I felt like this was closer to 12a. Felt harder than trouble with lichen

-PJ

[PeterA]

Cornifluge 5.12c 50'/M(4)/T
FA: L. Gallant, D. Caron September 2011
FFA: M. Theriault, L. Gallant, P.-L. Rossignol 18/06/12
At the very left end of the cliff you'll encounter two alcoves. This route is just left of Split Decision in the right-most alcove. Climb up the face and slopey arête that leads to a horizontal crack. After the crack climb up the overhang using crimps. Finish on the same pine tree as Serpents volants.


Grade needs to be confirm,

I would also call this climb 12a. Felt about the same difficulty as Tylenul, and definitely easier than Ra or Peer Pressure. Very cool route

-PJ