New Mix Routes, Sunnyside

[theriault]

Racine de Fraises - M8 20m/S(3)/T
FFA M. Thériault, L. Gallant, 03/03/12
5' right of the big hardwood tree on the left end of Darkside wall, scramble up choss pile to a bolt in a body length horizontal roof. Pull through the roof on powerful moves to gain vertical face, 2 more bolts will bring you to a tree anchor.
Note: first of its kind in NB!

The next 2 routes are situated about 30m past Whether wall fallowing the cliff band. The routes are separated by a hanging ice dagger (winter 2012).

Marde de Cloune - M4 PG 8m/N/T
FFA L. Gallant, M. Thériault 04/03/12
This route begins on the left side of the dagger, climb a series of horizontal cracks to gain access to the ice.

RedBull et Café - M4 PG 8m/M(1)/T
FFA M. Thériault, L. Gallant 04/03/12
This route begins on the left side of the dagger, climb the arrete to a single bolt 3/4 up the wall then transfer to the ice.

[theriault]

As this is a first in the area, II would like to extend an invite to the hard swinging tool men/women to get on it to help confirm the grade, we based it on the Freedom of the Hills charts...it would be nice to set a consensus grade to be able to use as a reference for future climbs of this nature.

[chossmonkey]

Nice job guys!!

Do you have any pics or video?

There are a lot of facets to mixed grades which can make rating very difficult, especially if you aren't familiar with them. The chart in my copy of FoH is pretty incorrect especially in the high end. I have a pretty difficult time correlating M-Grades to YDS grades, but M10 is around 5.12 assuming you are proficient at both. Low end is easy as I go by the rule of M5 would be similar technically and physically to WI5, M6 similar to WI6.

Depending how long your body length roof is and how hard the moves are M8 sounds pretty safe. After a while you guys will start to come up with some sort of local consensus and at least the grades will have some sort of meaning even if they are all wrong compared to the rest of the world, not that there is much consistency elsewhere.

Are any of you thinking of writing some thing for the Canadian Alpine Journal? I'm sure they would be psyched to hear about the growth of mixed climbing in the East. If you need contact info PM me.

Its awesome to see mixed climbing grow!

[Matt Peck]

If the first line mentioned is the line that follows Burley's Sith rock climb, she's been done for a couple of years now. Sweet climb through the roof an up a groove into a crack system to the huge Spruce? She's a nice line for sure, and plenty rough! M8 sounds about right, I've always just added two numbers to the grade to get the rough rock equivalent. feels like a 5.10+ for sure. Those first moves off the ledge are super scary.

[Adam]

If the first line mentioned is the line that follows Burley's Sith rock climb, she's been done for a couple of years now. Sweet climb through the roof an up a groove into a crack system to the huge Spruce? She's a nice line for sure, and plenty rough! M8 sounds about right, I've always just added two numbers to the grade to get the rough rock equivalent. feels like a 5.10+ for sure. Those first moves off the ledge are super scary.

nope that's to the right of Sith. I believe Marty's line is to the left.

not sure about your calculations for converting mixed to rock grades tho. M10 -> 5.12? i'm not a mixed climber but i thought M10 was way harder than 5.12 equivalent.

[chossmonkey]

not sure about your calculations for converting mixed to rock grades tho. M10 -> 5.12? i'm not a mixed climber but i thought M10 was way harder than 5.12 equivalent.

That is probably because most books on the subject were written in the explosion of mixed climbing advancement. The grades were anything but consolidated and nobody dreamed what would be possible in a few short years. If you tried free climbing M10 it would certainly be much harder than 5.12.

[theriault]

If the first line mentioned is the line that follows Burley's Sith rock climb, she's been done for a couple of years now.

Its a brand new line I bolted in March.