new aid lines

[coryhal]

due to the lack of winter, i've been doing some aid climbing.

Ian gave me the fa of a line he created up the steep blank wall at milford. It uses drilled bat hooks to make it through the blankest spots, with the perfect amount of bolts. There are 3-4 body weight ( hook moves mostly ) in a row in several sections making the climbing exciting but never dangerous. Bring pins, and a normal rack. The funest pitch of aid climbing i've done in new brunswick. A2+

Yesterday we went up to eagle rock with hopes of climbing the thin seam to the right of the great roof. After walking aroung and wasting time i eventually got a pecker to stick for the first move to the roof. Ian took the lead, and got small cams in for the first two roof moves. He then nailed out the roof till around the lip, then had to pull some scarry, icey 5.6 moves up the face. its good to know that knifblades will hold when placed into a fully horizontal seam. we finished on the large tree above the great roof. Were not really sure if the pins would have held if he had fallen at the lip. There is another thiner and longer seam further right ready for next time. A3 5.6

ill post the names and stuff when we get to it.

[coryhal]

Good Looking Bat Hooking – A3- 90 FEET FA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley, Eric Samis

This incredible line follows the white streak up the center of this amazing blank face passing horizontal pin seams and finishing in water grooved limestone for the last 20’. This is an extremely blank face which the first 40' will require bat hooking between bolts and the occasional fixed piton. Towards the top of the climb there are more natural features/gear placements, where offset nuts with the use of a few small cams and a few pins or hooks placement will allow you to get to the anchor.



The Real Great Roof-A2+ 50 FEET FA: Ian Lingley, Cory Hall

The True Great Roof is the thin pin seam that splits through the center of the great roof. This line starts on some iffy gear but at the base of the roof there are a few small cam placements, after that is piton seam (surprising deep) out and around the lip. The top out can be a little tricky if there is ice and snow covering the placement over the lip. But there are a few cracks and some med cam placements once above the lip.


Ian also put these up on mountain project, with some cool pics... check it out!

[Stacey]

Nice work Cory & Ian! Looks like you've making the best out of a slack winter!