2011/2012 Ice Season

[Greg]

was at dorchester cape today. all the lines appeared to be formed with the exception being the first free-hanging dagger. conditions were very thin and in combination with the mild temperatures i decided to leave the tools on my pack. what would people say is a conservative time buffer before high tide to allow for an uncomplicated exit. i have to admit i was freaked out by the possibility of being trapped by a rising tide. i am from bc and haven't spent any time around the bay of fundy, although i have heard many peoples' warnings.
if anyone is every looking for a climbing partner i would be happy to make the trip up to the sussex area or wherever the ice is good.

kyle

Short notice but I am heading to the Waterford area today. Give me a call at 233-4047 if you want to join me or set something up for another day.

Greg

[theriault]

Just climbed Cave Fever this afternoon with Dom in the sort of snowstorm, its in pretty chandelired/overhanging condition but with great Ice, the slab has just about enough ice, have at her!, it was my first time on it and now one of my NB favorite! Amazing route!

[Dom]

Tough route but so much fun. good lead by Marty! Here is what the route looked like before we got on it. Despite the blue sky in the picture, we got some weird whiteout conditions during the ascent.

[theriault]

Playing around with a helmet cam for the first time, great for showing ice condition lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NOjThay ... e=youtu.be
PS I hate computers and they hate me! lol

[Joe]

Ministers Face is in good shape, and there's lots of snowmobiles traveling the river.

[Greg]

Mt. Misery is in okay condition. Straight Up is in good shape and saw several leads yesterday. Virtually everything left of it is out or very thin. Most of the routes to the right of SU are in. The Upper Cliff is actually showing the most ice. I think every line was led up there.

By the way, Flashback (named Mr. Fantastic in the guide book) is an awesome route. If you are looking for something different, interesting and full of adventure get on this one.

[Greg]

Glebe Road is getting fat! Here are some new routes climbed today. Check the New Ice Routes Log for a complete guide to the cliff and a new updated approach.

Short Wall Fun WI 3, 18 m L. Toron, G. Hughes 22/01/12
Found about 40 meters west of Glebe Falls. Can also be accessed if you take the scramble down the right of the Glebe Falls rapel station. There is a wide wall of ice that is about 18 to 20 meters at it’s highest point. Several lines/variatons possible.

The Lampion WI 4, 20 m M. Theriault, C. Hall 22/01/12
Steep waterfall pillar found just west of Glebe Falls. Pumpy and technical climbing. Three variations possible.

[Stacey]

We were at Hillsborough today...unfortunately the tides have been high, and the bottoms are gone...we did a couple of lines, but nothing is great.

[Stacey]

Acadie

[Simon]

Hey, I'm from Nova Scotia and I just moved to Sussex for work for 6 months and since the season is not over like NS, I would like to find some partner or tag along to discover some good ice spot this weekend (Feb 4-5). I don't mind to travel or go to Parlee Brook, St-John area, even Dorchester. I have my own gear and lead. sim_nois@hotmail.com
Simon

[kridge]

i am looking for a climbing partner for thursday feb. 2. i would like to check out parlee brook, glebe rd or something like that. however i am open to other suggestions. email me kyleridge@hotmail.com or 902-664-9634.

kyle

[Greg]

We climbed a really cool route near Truancy Falls on Saturday. Not sure if it has been done before but it to my knowledge it has never been recorded.

Alpine Squeeze WI3, 150 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney, S. Gibbs, S. Arcand, S. Hughes 29/01/12
This route is located in the Parlee area behind the cabin near Hullholmes Falls. After passing Truancy Falls continue up the drainage up to a 25 meter slab of ice. Climb to the top of the slab and move leftward to a long narrow snow chute punctuated with ice to a large chockstone. Move up and left around this obstacle and continue climbing up to another 15 meter section of ice. Top out and belay off tree anchor. Move slightly left and continue up a drainage to a large cave that leads through a massive buttress of rock. Easy climbing through the cave on ice and rock for about 20 meters. Exit cave and continue up ice gulley to the top. From here you can walk up through pre-commercial thinned forest to an atv trail. This trail leads northeast to Friars Nose and Arnold Hollow Road or south toward the upper approach to Parlee Ice Climbs. This is a very interesting, enjoyable climb through varied and unique terrain.

[Adam]

We climbed a really cool route

Definitely a unique looking climb for these parts.

[Joe]

Feb 5 - Waterfall Wall and Ministers Face are both good.

[coryhal]

we were into falls brook on saturday, super nice spot. we climbed the falls, and i think we put up a new route, here it is.



Blind trust- WI 4+ M4 65m FFA: Cory Hall, Lucas Toron Feb. / 2012

This route tackles the rock wall to the right of the main falls. Start in a small bowl and climb lower angled ice up to a steepening runnel, was a bit thin in spots. The ice ends 10m from the top, fist jam, layback, and dry tool up crap rock to the tree. I beat an old ice pick into the rock for pro because I didn’t have rock gear, bring some; the last move to the tree is exciting. We rapped 30m to the top of the falls, and another 30m got us mostly down.

[max]

hey kyle, i'm from sackville NB, not there presently but have done a bit of ice climbing around dorchester cape, rockport and such. as for the tides if they are on the lower height and there is ice on the beach you can climb through high tide (below 40ft/15m change) you can also approach from the top and rap in with a 70m rope if the tides are at midday. if you drive up from the beach you can park and walk in.... pretty sure it is along a line of trees past the 3rd or 4th house, a blue bungallo. 10/15 mins tops. I'm going to be around the first 2 weeks of may and if you climb on rocks too, I can show you a place to boulder and i also have a coastal spot to check out that could have some ok sandstone.

enjoy the rest of the winter. patagonia is treating me well so far. Just got back from working a 30 day traverse in the Asyen Region. Starting from Rio El Canal to Rio Leones. It ended up being 125kms, 8 students, myself and co-instructor totalling 10, 15 days of sun 12 of rain/snow and wind up to 110+km, 17 days on glacier and 4 peak climbs and a few more attempts. Pretty rad hopefully I'll get a blog update before heading back into the field. if anyone is interested my blog it's: nowasteddaylight@blogspot.com

marty, dom, luc bugs in august??

[theriault]

marty, dom, luc bugs in august??

Max, sounds like a plausible plan! Let's figure it out when you come down! Have fun and be safe on the rest of you Patagonian adventures!! Crank Hard Bud!

[theriault]

The Southern Roadcut

These climbs are found on the new (2011/2012) highway cuts south of Eagle rock. The routes are described from left to right (South to North) and are all following straight lines up the face. Many variations are possible but I don't think its worth documenting. All of these First ascents were climbed on a full moon weeknight.
Approach: Park next to the highway and trek the whole 50m to the base of the wall…officially the shortest approach for Ice in NB.
Beta photo will be provided soon


Welcome to Welsford National Park - WI 3+, 20m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
The obvious flow on the left of the wall. Climb low angle ice to a few bulges near the top.


Marcy Beaucoup - WI4, 20m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
Climb the vertical chandeliered face left of PMG to a low angle finish. Delicate interesting climbing


Pas Much de Glace - WI4 M5 G, 18m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
Climb the obvious vertical crack just right of MB to two pillars back to back that start half way up the face. As this is a highway cut, be careful of loose rock in the mix section. Surprinsingly, The vertical crack takes bomber cams.
Note: First Ascent party did not plan on climbing rock so no rock gear was used on the first ascent making this a spicy loose R/X route.


Right S'ul Bord D'la Highway - WI3, 18m. FFA M. Thériault, D. Caron, S. Burdett, 07/02/12
The right most flow just to the right of the red "Danger" graffiti.

[Dom]

A few pictures from last night courtesy of Mr. Burdett.

[Greg]

Another new route at Glebe Road. Nice work Lucas.

34 Bucks! WI4, 25 m. Lucas Toron, C. Hall, M. Theriault 22/01/12 The last line of ice before the weakness out of the back of the amphitheater. 10 meters of lower angle ice leads to a steep, narly, technical pillar with poor protection. Lucas broke a pick on the fa hence the name.

[theriault]

Greg, this is just a thought, but have you ever considered giving that whole wall a name since most of the routes on it all look the same, are all the same height and technical/protection difficulty.... like Parlee Brook.... less confusing..... lot of routes are getting crammed on a small wall.... but like I said, this is just a thought....

[Greg]

Greg, this is just a thought, but have you ever considered giving that whole wall a name since most of the routes on it all look the same, are all the same height and technical/protection difficulty.... like Parlee Brook.... less confusing..... lot of routes are getting crammed on a small wall.... but like I said, this is just a thought....

No I don't think the routes are crammed any more than other ice crags in NB. Pretty consistent I think. Parlee may be the exception to the rule. After climbing 34 Bucks last Sunday I would say it is very unique and worthy of being recorded. I found it to be a very tough lead. I don't think it is confusing at all - there is a topo and route description that solves that problem

[theriault]

No I don't think the routes are crammed

Like I said, this was just a thought, I think Glebe is a nice little crag! worth at least day trip a year!!!

[*Chris*]

Is ice season totally destroyed? After yesterday's +15 in Fredericton I'm thinking it's over. That said, I'd like to sneak in one more day.

What is the probability that I'd find 'in' ice at Parlee Brook tomorrow? Would anything have survived the recent rain & mild temps?

I'd give it 50% but maybe that's too generous? Any thoughts?

[Dom]

Is ice season totally destroyed? After yesterday's +15 in Fredericton I'm thinking it's over. That said, I'd like to sneak in one more day.

What is the probability that I'd find 'in' ice at Parlee Brook tomorrow? Would anything have survived the recent rain & mild temps?

I'd give it 50% but maybe that's too generous? Any thoughts?

Worth considering

0:30 in the video.

http://vimeo.com/37975687

[GKelly]

I woud be very suspect of the ice stability after the action at cl yesterday. The gully in parlee would be a death trap if anything ever came down. I recomend taking advantage of the warm temps and doing some "real" climbing.

[coryhal]

was into parley and truancy area today. all the normal stuff is in good shape, perfect conditions.

alpine squeeze is a grest route right to the top of the hill!

[*Chris*]

was into parley and truancy area today. all the normal stuff is in good shape, perfect conditions.

alpine squeeze is a grest route right to the top of the hill!

Nice!