3Q's = Longest / Most Difficult / Best Beginner

[Paddlerx]

3 questions:
What is the longest ice climb in NB?

What is the generally regarded most difficult "pure ice" climb in NB (and might as well throw in toughest mixed climb)?

What is the best spot to take a beginner to run top rope laps with to get them more comfortable?


thanks,
Don

[*Chris*]

You may not find anyone well qualified to answer all 3 questions. I suspect you can figure out the first 2 from scanning Joe's guide and this forum. Mt. Misery may be the answer to the 3rd for it's ease of access, short lines, density, and variety.

[Stacey]

3 questions:
What is the longest ice climb in NB?

What is the generally regarded most difficult "pure ice" climb in NB (and might as well throw in toughest mixed climb)?

What is the best spot to take a beginner to run top rope laps with to get them more comfortable?


thanks,
Don

I really think that Glebe Road would be the best spot for beginners for the ice climbing. The practice wall and upper practice wall offer some great WI2 and WI3s, short wall fun has some WI3+ but is short enough to give a beginner some taste of the harder stuff, and then in the back ravine are the WI4/WI5s...for those super keen and with great talent as a beginner. I love it there! Mount Misery is definitely a great spot, but nothing really below a solid WI2+/WI3 ... and right now, doubtful there is much that is leadable, we were there last Monday, and with the southern exposure, it was pretty sad

I've not climbed in Grand Manan, but I think that Truancy Falls was the hardest line. It isn't in the this year, but was a spectacular line of pure ice.


Stace

[Joe]

1) Longest climb - there are some long gully routes in Little Salmon and Walton Glen, but they are really 2 or 3 ice flows connected by snow fields. For pure ice routes, Fundy Gully is probably the longest at around 100m. Wisers and Amy on Grand Manan are also long and awesome 2 pitch pure ice routes, a little shorter than Fundy Gully but harder.

2) Hardest climb - it's probably Truancy because of the pump factor, especially on the right side. But Uncomfortably Numb in St. Martins is also very hard. It's shorter than Truancy but very technical with a few overhanging icicles (see photo).

3) Beginners - I'd say Hampton because of easy access and top-rope ability, followed closely by Mt. Misery, which has more variety.