CNS 2004- 2005 a year in review

[Climb Nova Scotia]

Climb Nova Scotia
Year in Review: 2004/2005

Board Changes

Teth Cleveland was elected chair of CNS.

Denise Fillion was elected secretary of CNS

Chris Hayes returned to the treasurer position.

Dave Blanchard agreed to share the role of Clinic Administrator with Chris Eager. After May, Chris Eager was not able to participate due to other commitments. Dave was left with full responsibility for the role. Chris Hayes helped Dave get going. In the Fall Dave got his CNS Outdoor Top-Rope certification, which gave him the option of running clinics himself. Due to logistical difficulty in offering Top-rope clinics, and the fact they are now available through other organizations, it was decided to scale clinics down to one set of Top-Rope clinics in the spring and a second set in the fall. A TR1 clinic was held April 23, 2005.

Cara Hazelton took over the role of Membership Coordinator. Being located in New Brunswick caused some logistical problems, but no one in Nova Scotia was available to do it. The compromise was that any memberships which CNS received were scanned and emailed to her.

Chris Hayes and Denise Fillion continued as co-newsletter editors and published four CNS Newsletters.

Events/Sponsorships:

CNS Sponsored The Nova Scotia Nature Trust’s Climb for Conservation fundraising event at Beyond Gravity. It was a climbing event, and assisting environmental organizations is good for Climb Nova Scotia’s public image. Also, the Nova Scotia Nature Trust holds a conservation easement for the Ship Rock climbing area, so that CNS involvement was also an important proactive access initiative.

Milk Energy Sport Fair:
CNS paid for two belayers for the climbing wall at the sport fair held at Dalplex. Heather Sagar agreed to hand out CNS brochures at the event. Many youth got their first opportunity to experience climbing at this event. Getting youth involved in sport is a high priority to the Department of Health Promotion which provides the primary funding for Climb Nova Scotia.

CNS Sponsored HRM Recreation Department to take 40 underprivileged youth from North End Dartmouth climbing at Ground Zero climbing gym. Again, this is inline with Department of Health Promotion priorities.

Boulderfest 2004 was successfully organized by Ghislain Losier and Teth Cleveland, with assistance from Jonathan, Denise, and many others. Afterward a Boulderfest manual was compiled with all the information necessary to organize this event.

Halifax Bouldering guide book:
CNS bought ad space on the back of the Halifax Bouldering guide book in order to assist with publishing costs and insure that this guide finally went into print. This guide was started about five years ago by Greg Campbell who moved away to Ontario before his guide was finished. In 2003 several local climbers tried to get the project going again, and then CNS formed a committee to work on it. Finally Ghislain Losier took over the project and put in a tremendous amount of time and effort into getting it ready for publication. It does not have all the bouldering in Nova Scotia, but it has most of it and in better quality than anything available before, not to mention having it all in one book.

CNS Top-Rope Clinics:
HRM Department of Recreation organized a CNS Top-Rope Clinic in the spring of 2004 and CNS held a Top-Rope clinic in the Fall.


Access:

Terence Bay Woods Access Issue.
Climbers were asked to stop bouldering in this area because the landowners are planning on building their house in the middle of it. They also have liability concerns. While the liability concerns might be addressed, CNS felt that due to the proximity of the boulders to the house (once it is built) that it was impractical to negotiate for unrestricted access. However, the landowners seemed receptive to the idea of holding prescheduled events in the area. Teth Cleveland will meet with the landowners in May to address their liability concerns and discussed the possibility of holding events in this area so that our members can still experience some of the classic problems found there.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park access issue:
After a year of inactivity on this issue, Climb Nova Scotia drafted a Climbing Management Plan for the Park and submitted it to park officials. Park staff insisted that cliffs must be individually assessed (for safety, value as a climbing destination, and environmental sensitivity) before they can be reopened for climbing. Jonah Mitchell Manager-Resource Conservation, was assigned to work with CNS to organize these cliff assessments. He has some climbing experience from out west. Unfortunately a strike by Federal Park employees prevented the cliff assessment from happening in the Fall or 2004. This year Sheldon Lambert M.E.S. Senior Park Warden-Resource Management, has been assigned to do the cliff assessments. He should be meeting with James LaRusic, Climb Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Representative, very soon to assess the cliff at Black Brook. Sheldon also has climbing experience and is eager to get things rolling.

The Park’s Cliff Assessment Criteria (CBHNP):
1) What is the proposed location zoning? Only zone IV (Outdoor Recreation) and V (Park Services) areas will be considered for climbing sites. This is to protect the core wilderness and protection values inherent in zones I to III.

2) What are the safety considerations at the site? This applies particularly to the ability of emergency personnel to evacuate an injured climber. Preferably, sites should be within one hour of a major trail or road. Other factors that may be considered include helicopter access and if a site has multiple pitches.

3) Are there any potential user conflicts at the site?

4) Does the site function as a suitable and rewarding climbing site? Some factors to consider include the extent of loose rock and soil, availability of anchors, skill level required to climb at the site.

5) Are there any environmentally sensitive sites (ESSs) or valued ecosystem components nearby?

6) What is the anticipated carrying capacity of the site and the forecasted environmental impacts from climbing at the proposed site? Particular attention will be given to evaluating lichens and vegetation in the area. Sites with rare vegetation and lichens may not be suitable as climbing sites.

Ship Rock Access Issue.
The Ship Rock climbing area was listed for sale on an internet web site. CNS investigated. It turns out there is something fishy going on with that Web site (maybe it is some sort of scam?), but the island is not for sale and the landowners were glad that CNS brought this to their attention. Even if this island did sell, the Nova Scotia Nature Trust holds a conservation easement on the land, so it can not be developed and will stay in its natural state. CNS sponsored the Nova Scotia Nature Trust’s fund rasing event this year to maintain a positive working relationship with the organization.

Rebolting At Eagle’s Nest.
Some of the bolts at Eagles Nest may date back to the late 1970's or early 1980's, they are smaller than the bolts we use now, many of them are poorly placed from a sport climbing perspective, and many of them are in questionable condition. Many bolts need to be replaced. A number of years ago this was pursued, but there was some sort of hangup with getting permission from the Halifax Regional Municipality. Board changes since then leave us unsure of where things left off, but we need to revisit this in the coming year.

Chebucto Head/Duncan’s Cove.
Teth attended an environmental cleanup at Duncans Cove to maintain good relations with the locals. (Another proactive access initiative.)

Web Site Changes

CNS added a members list, and a list of certified instructors to its Web site.

CNS closed down its internet discussion board in favour of using one which was offered to us for free and had more functionality.

CNS Certifications were reviewed this year.
It was decided that CNS would not look at trad climbing certifications this go-around due to liability issues and the difficulty of getting the examiners trained to certify instructors. (Out of province training and certification required.)

The current CNS Certification was unchanged, except that it is now called the CNS Outdoor Top-Rope instructor certification.

A Basics Instructor certification was developed for assistant outdoor instructors and for indoor instructors using permanent anchors. This certification does not cover anchors or rescue procedures, but does cover the basics such as belay, figure eight knot, beginner movement etc. Basics instructors are meant to work outdoors under the supervision of a certified outdoor instructor or in a controlled environment such as a gym. This will allow them to develop teaching experience while they develop the skills and climbing experience necessary to attain the Outdoor Top-Rope instructor certification. Heather Reynolds Sagar at the Dal Rockcourt, and Sean Wyatt at Beyond Gravity have been designated by CNS as examiners for this certification.

CNS has not yet looked into the feasability of offering a Sport Lead Instructor certification.

New CNS Instructors
CNS certified four new Outdoor Top-Rope instructors this year.

CNS Logistics:

This year Todd Foster informed CNS that he needed the rest of his shed space, so that CNS had to find somewhere else to store equipment. We would like to thank Todd for the many years of easy and free equipment storage he offered us. It was an ideal setup where three people on the board had keys to Todd’s shed and could access it at any time. Todd is still looking after the CNS drill and associated equipment. CNS debated other storage possibilities. The gear has moved four times this year. We considered using a self storage facility as this seemed the only way to have the same access to the gear as we had with Todd’s shed, but due to a public outcry over this possibility we have abandoned the idea and are planning to store the gear at Denise’s house. Clinic Instructors and event organizers will have to coordinate with her schedule to pickup and return the gear.

CNS purchased a speaker phone this year so that board members can attend meetings remotely. We had board members in Cape Breton and New Brunswick who would have had to travel great distances to attend meetings. In the long run the phone is less expensive than reimbursing for milage for travel in Nova Scotia to attend meetings. In previous years CNS has also had board members from Cape Breton and Greenwood. Our mandate is for all of Nova Scotia so it is important for people from outside of Halifax to be able to participate.

[chameleon]

Thanks to CNS for the informative meeting on Tuesday night. And it was nice to see that the beer budget hasn't gone totally by the way side.

At the post-meeting meeting it was resolved that climbing K2 in flip-flops is way harder than bouldering. At the time this seemed to be absolutely hilarious, but upon sober reflection it sounds pretty stupid, eh?

(Dr. Dre made me do it.)

S

[dr. dre]

chameleon,

you're right.
so, after i left were there any more sword fights?
and are you joining the stoners this weekend?

dr. dre

[mike]

Oh no!!!

More mystery flowers disturbers.

Muaaaaa haaaa haaaa haaaa

[Climb Nova Scotia]

CBHNP Access Update

The cliff assessment for Black Brook in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park has been scheduled for May 7th. Park Warden Sheldon Lambert will be representing the Park, and James LaRusic (CNS Ex-Officio Director) will be representing CNS and the climbers of Cape Breton.

Teth Cleveland, President of Climb Nova Scotia

[The Mitt]

Lets hope it goes well. If you guys need anything let me know.

Mitt

[Stevo]

Yet more silly "nom de plumes"!

[peter]

"Year in Review" also included CNS sponsored ice climbing, six outings I think, with about 40-50 warm and not so warm bodies participating in total, over the course of these days. The CNS crampons, ice axes, ropes, helmets and slings got a good work out through the winter. Some fine new people met, climbed with, and (hopefully) kept around. Peter

[dr. dre]

oops,
sorry about that peter, and all those who participated in cns ice days.

dr. dre

[peter]

Sorry, but I don't know anyone with a doctor of philosophy or a medical degree named "dre". Perhaps we haven't been introduced?

[Guest]

Sorry, but I don't know anyone with a doctor of philosophy or a medical degree named "dre". Perhaps we haven't been introduced?

a PhD in any field gives the right to call oneself "Dr."... what field are you in Dre?

[The Teth]

I can only think of one CNS board member with a PHD, although we seem to have picked up a few more academic types at the AGM. Not that you have to qualify for your title on the internet. For instance, I recently discovered that there are other Teths out there, although I still think I am the only one in the Maritimes.

Thanks for reminding us about CNS Ice Days Peter. That was definitely an oversight on my part. I put together the Year In Review from looking over all the minutes from the meetings, and since Ice Days was running so smoothly it was never mentioned in the minutes. I should have remembered it though, as it was one of our most successful events. And...thank you Peter for doing such a great job of organizing this event these last two years. You are going to be hard to replace when next the ice forms.


Teth

[Climb Nova Scotia]

The next CNS Directors meeting is being held at Duncans Cove (meeting at the rotary at 6:00pm) on Tuesday (May 3rd).

Agenda:
- Get to know everyone (Introductions)
- Discuss CNS history and heritage.
- Do/attempt the Scoop V2
- Discuss (generally) CNS priorities for the coming year

Teth Cleveland, President of Climb Nova Scotia

[Climb Nova Scotia]

CNS Directors Meeting (May 3rd 2005) Minutes

Attending:
Teth Cleveland - President - Chair of the Access Committee
Chris Hayes - Treasurer
Denise Fillion - Secretary - Co Newsletter Editor
Chris Daniel
Rafal Andronowski - Co Newsletter Editor
Felix Hanke

- Introductions were made and the directors got to know each other.

- Most present climbed Scoop V2. Some missed out as they had to go move their cars.

- The Board Voted to end the practice to paying the Webmaster for up to 5 hours of work per quarter. (The new webmaster is willing to donate his time and thinks this practice was a waste of money.) If in future CNS has difficulty finding a volunteer to do web site maintenance this issue can be revisited.

- The Board Voted to sponsor the Halifax Bouldering Web site this year for the same amount as we gave last time. One of the new directors expressed how this web site had been very helpful to him when he started bouldering in Nova Scotia.

- The Board Voted to give our Webmaster the go-ahead to find a less expansive server for the new CNS web site.

- It was suggested that all CNS Directors Meetings be held at climbing areas, but it was noted that this would make teleconferencing difficult. It was suggested that we might be able to coordinate to have such meetings when Cara is in Halifax and can make it in person.

- The Slot problem, The Slot Dyno, Swinging Deals, Tough Sailors, and Adrenaline Junkie all saw action, although only the first two saw sends.

Note: This may be the last time the CNS Directors Meeting Minutes are posted on the discussion board. When the new CNS web page it up and running, minutes will be posted there and only the link will be posted here.

Teth Cleveland, President of Climb Nova Scotia

[martha]

If you give me enough notice I can come for climbing meetings!!!

wooot!!

Sounds like a productive meeting. Thanks guys for the work involved. (and the play)