2011/2012 Ice Season

[theriault]

Greg, Stacey and I went up to parlee this afternoon and Snatched the NB first Ice climb of the 2011/2012 season. The road in was in great shape, got in with summer tires. I got to lead 3 Amigos in very thin/detached condition with a rock top out using only 3 half tied stubbies.... I am not saying that anything is "in", Parlee Brook is officially out but we managed to steal one!

[coryhal]

we were into paelee sunday, and conditions are looking good.... 5 lines were led. blue pillar and yellow piller were coming nicely but still a wee thin, hullhomes looked ok too. everything is flowing alot so things should thicken up fast.

[theriault]

was in Parlee today (Dec 26), everything is in except Pat's Choice, second part of KF and yellow pillar, Its looking good in there!!! Hullholmes is shaping up nicely!

[Greg]

We were in to Glebe Road today. There is some leadable ice in there now. The curtains on the far left haven't touched down yet but there are two nice pillars and a small curtain at the back.

[theriault]

I went on an Ice Recon today, in land seems to be shaping up nicely but costal is far from ready!

[GKelly]

Parlee was superb yesterday. Not good pro yet in my opinion but really fun climbing. Access was still good via lisson sett. Have a feeling things will need to start over after today. Sure glad we got out yesterday.

[theriault]

. Not good pro yet in my opinion .

It was taking 16 and 19cm screws 2 days ago.... do you climb with a full rack of 22cm`s? lol

[GKelly]

I use 63cm and larger. Anything less just seems like awaste of time.
Things were pretty warm while i was in there. I am an ice p.... "kitty cat". Perhaps i should have specified that i require three ft thick ice to deem it protectable.

[Shawn B]

I use 63cm and larger. Anything less just seems like awaste of time.
Things were pretty warm while i was in there. I am an ice p.... "kitty cat". Perhaps i should have specified that i require three ft thick ice to deem it protectable.

Ahhh....you mean you like there to be at least a 50/50 chance of your screw holding. Perhaps Marty forgot the "th" in front of "in".

To describe an ice climb as "in" it should be in its "normal full condition". For climbs such as blue pillar and 3 amigos that would mean a considerable amount of well bonded solid ice consistently feet thick. Not 16 cm screws in certain spots. Climbable, thin, leadable, 5 climbs were led are all descriptions of conditions that are not necessarily considered "in" by its intended meaning. Harder climbs that are normally thin may be considered "in" in much leaner condition...but those climbing it will expect it. "Normal full conditions" is the key to calling something "in" vs "thin".

Greg, let me know when it's 3ft thick and I'll start packing my screws....meow.

[theriault]

"Normal full conditions" is the key to calling something "in" vs "thin". .

I think this conversation comes up every year lol
thanks for the reminder!

[theriault]

Some of us where climbing in Parlee today... The area has not only survived the rain/warm spell, it got fatter! Really good conditions in there! Hullholmes has good ice, the bottom curtain was not touching down (required fun mix climbing) and the top was detached but it should be good as of tomorrow, everything was forming fast!!!!

[kridge]

hello. i am living in amherst and new to the area. i have been trying to find somewhere to climb ice with little success. i would love to get out to these areas you guys refer to. would anyone be willing to provide directions? if anyone is ever looking for a climbing partner let me know. i would also be keen to be a partner on some of the recon missions if anyone is looking for company. i would also like to secure the new brunswick ice climbing guide book by joe kennedy if anyone can help me with where i can buy it.

peace

kyle

[Joe]

Kyle, you have some vey good ice in NB at Rockport, Johnsons Mills and Dorchester Cape, all close to the road. GoogleEarth the area. You also have great ice in NS on the coast between Shulie, Sand River and Apple River. PM me your email address and I can send you more specific directions and mail you a guidebook if you wish. Joe.

[Joe]

Parlee 7 Jan

Almost all lines are in and were led with good screws, except for Patricks which has a rock finish.

[coryhal]

we were into walton glen canyon today, you can drive all the way in ... which is nice, but travel in the canyon is a bit interesting at times. Deliverance is out but forming, walton glen falls is out ( the whole center fell out of it today.... greg did climb it yesterday tho). We climbed the green wall, it was in thin conditions with lots of internal flow.

also checked out saintmartins satunday... does not look too good. stuff is forming but the warm weather is killing it. nothing was climbed.... didn't have gear!

jan, 8

[theriault]

Dom and I had a night session on Waterfall Wall tonight (Jan 10), conditions are perfect!!!! They take longs crews! Fat! Plus the no snow thing = longer routes!!!

[kridge]

hi joe. thanks you for getting back to me. i would love to hear some specific directions for the locations you mentioned in new brunswick and nova scotia. i am super stoked to check them out. i am thinking about getting out for some more exploration tomorrow and would love to actually find some climbable ice. i would be very grateful if you are able to email me a copy of the guide book. my email address is kyleridge@hotmail.com.

thank you again.

[*Chris*]

hi joe. thanks you for getting back to me. i would love to hear some specific directions for the locations you mentioned in new brunswick and nova scotia. i am super stoked to check them out. i am thinking about getting out for some more exploration tomorrow and would love to actually find some climbable ice. i would be very grateful if you are able to email me a copy of the guide book. my email address is kyleridge@hotmail.com.

thank you again.

Hi Kridge. I have put together a map here: Keep in mind that it's no substitute for Joe's guidebook.

[coryhal]

i was into parlee today, the ice was actually brittle. i would call everything in... blue pillar looks great, and trampless even looks good. I was lacking a partner so i just climbed the easy stuff. Hullhomes also looks in great shape. Truancy is half way down and flowing water so it might be a good idea to keep an eye on it this year. i also did a bunch of climbing in that canyon on some new or un-recorded routes, follow the approach for Truancy falls for the following routes:

Solo slabs – WI2+ 40M FFA: unknown
This is the large ice covered wall found up hill and to the left of Truancy falls.

Treecicles – WI3 30M FFA: Cory Hall Jan. / 12
Follow the main drainage past truancy, and you should find yourself standing in front of a nice wide blue flow. There is a nice curtain up top with some cool icicles hanging off of the trees behind, you can stem off some of them.... others break.

Winter Warmer Wall – WI 3+ 25M FFA: Cory Hall Jan. /12
Follow the drainage on the top of Treecicle, after a short distance a wide wall will become visible on the right. The longest central line climbs at around 3+, the wall is easier to the right, and shorter but harder on the left. I’m not really sure on the height because I didn’t have a rope.

[Stef]

Climbed in Welsford today. All three lines on Waterfall Wall are in. Slabs on Cave fever are not in yet, but forming. Quarry still looks thin.

[*Chris*]

Was at the quarry today:

Drainpipe - In
Ice cheese - Thin
Prep. H - Thin

[coryhal]

lucas and i tried to get out to rogers head today. But after loosing a mirror, and several trim pices, we determined that there was no possibility that the thing we were driving on could have ever be considered a road. After driving around for another 30 minutes, we decided that the "road" did not exist, and went over to check out fundy gully. It was super warm on the beach, and most of the route fell down as we were gearing up... so we bailed. It looked like there was some ice on quaco head but im not sure how thick it is. So we were at waterfall wall by noon, its in good shape. Moe is a bit more interesting than normal, with some cool mini roofs and stuff. Cave Fever is super thin, and flowing.... a good candidate for a night ice session.... hint...hint!!

[theriault]

On our way out of Fundy NP we checked Cape Enrage, its "out" prob needs an other week

[theriault]

hint...hint!!

+1

[Joe]

Hayes Falls is fat - no surprise there. Park on 4-Laner near the culvert for Hayes Br (N46.02484 W67.55924), follow trail for 325m, turn on the right hand trail, and follow to the top of the falls.

[theriault]

Jan 16, Went for a session in Hampton today, things are really chandeliered and cauliflowered but its there! Interesting pillar formed in the middle of the face!

[STeveA]

Fishing huts and snowmobiles are on the river. Ministers Face looks fairly good from the road.

[Paddlerx]

Glebe video from last week. Michel Martin and Craig Harper and myself. Coming in very nice.

http://donricker.smugmug.com/Climbing/Ice/Glebe-Road-2012/21060830_pPT52K

[kridge]

was at dorchester cape today. all the lines appeared to be formed with the exception being the first free-hanging dagger. conditions were very thin and in combination with the mild temperatures i decided to leave the tools on my pack. what would people say is a conservative time buffer before high tide to allow for an uncomplicated exit. i have to admit i was freaked out by the possibility of being trapped by a rising tide. i am from bc and haven't spent any time around the bay of fundy, although i have heard many peoples' warnings.
if anyone is every looking for a climbing partner i would be happy to make the trip up to the sussex area or wherever the ice is good.

kyle

[kridge]

Glebe video from last week. Michel Martin and Craig Harper and myself. Coming in very nice.

http://donricker.smugmug.com/Climbing/Ice/Glebe-Road-2012/21060830_pPT52K

really enjoyed the vid. nice climbing!