Getting started

[hoc]

New guy here just starting to take an interest in bouldering for the first time. I have zero climbing experience but spend a lot of time outdoors kayaking and sailing and happen to live right next to a supposed bouldering hotspot (prospect head). Aside from picking up a pad and shoes, what are the first steps towards getting into bouldering in the Halifax area? Are there some starter problems in the prospect/dover/terence bay areas to start on or is this something you want to start off indoors?

Thanks for any info you can provide

[seanT]

If you live near Prospect and want to get into bouldering step one is to start slapping thumbtacks and peices of broken glass in order to build up the strength of your skin. Step 2 is to go out to the boulders and start climbing.
SeanT

[Joey]

I'd pick up the "Halifax Bouldering" guide book. I think it's at the trail shop. $30 bucks

[chossmonkey]

If you live near Prospect and want to get into bouldering step one is to start slapping thumbtacks and peices of broken glass in order to build up the strength of your skin. Step 2 is to go out to the boulders and start climbing.
SeanT

No doubt, I'll never forget the time Rock Master Flash sandbagged me on the warmup and I ripped the skin right off my girly soft finger tips on the first problem we got on.

[Quinn]

The key is to start climbing regularly, preferably at least 2 - 3 times a week when you are starting out. Otherwise it's hard to break through the initial barriers. Often, even the most basic outside boulder problem are challenging for beginners. Skin, stamina, technique, proper pad placement, situational awareness, and proper failing are all lacking early on which can be discouraging. It's a good idea to climb inside as well - you can build skills and meet other climbers to get the most out of your outdoor sessions. Hitting the boulders solo with limited experience is not likely to provide the kind of experience that will keep you engaged with the sport long-term.

[jeremy benjamin]

Boulder problems are graded according to their difficulty. All grades start with a V and then have a number. V0 (vee zero) is the easiest bouldering grade. Larger numbers are more difficult. So V1 is harder than V0. V0-V2 are usually suitable grades for beginner climbers. V3 problems are kind of notorious for being a weird grade, some are way easy others are way hard. At V4 I feel you are getting into intermediate grades that probably require some experience to climb them. All grades of course are subjective, and different people have different strengths and weaknesses. The Bouldering guide book suggested above has lists of established boulder problems in Prospect, Dover (the LOC is near Dover on the mainland), and Terrance Bay areas, as well as other bouldering areas around Halifax. All of these areas will have beginner problems. The grades are in the guide book, as well as either a photo or diagram of the boulders and a description of each problem.

It is highly advisable to climb with a partner to act as a spotter to help guide your fall to the pad.

You can start inside first and then move outside, but it is not necessary. There are two local gyms, Ground Zero in Burnside and the Rock Court at the Dalplex. Both gyms have bouldering problems set up and are a great place to meet other climbers.

[Matt Peck]

Well certainly the first thing you HAVE to do, is get yourself some crampons, Axes, and a love for suffering. Its ice season young'un, and the only thing boulders are good for at this time of year is chockstones. Have a read of Roger's ice guide for some inspiration and fill your hands! You'll be grovelling up gullies with a broken wallet, disapproving spouse and soggy droors in notime. Fergit that pebble wrastlin' and go for the glory. It's the pinky bashers life for me.
Naw mate. Grab that pad while you can, you get your mits on an ax and it'll be all over for you.

Cheers, and listen close to these other fine folks.

[Quinn]

Matt must be posting in the wrong forum, because in Nova Scotia the boulders are dry, clean, and sticky at the moment, while ice is nowhere to be seen...

[Matt Peck]

That may be so, but the same is true for the drytooling. I wonder about taking my points to the LOC for some lowball toolin....

[Quinn]

Yeah, I guess if you can't hold on to the slopers and stand on the crystals you can use tools to make everything into jugs.

[Matt Peck]

hell, Im holding onto a pair already right? Why not? And I won't need to clean anything.

[Zamboni]

Matt, be careful with those dry tooling thoughts. 10 years before this CEC forum ever existed, there was a guy saying the same thing. He disappeared shortly after all the trash talk. He's never been seen since.

[Matt Peck]

Fair enough. Im too pretty to troll anyway. Seriously though, hijacking aside, the gyms in town are a great place to start looking for fellow pebble wrestlers. I think Sean has a thread here somewhere where he promotes winter excursions to the rocks; as well as some low grade alchoholism.

[SeanD]

Hey Zamboni,

I have never had the pleasure.
My name is Sean Drohan, and I started that discussion on dry tooling ten years ago.
And yes, I am still around.
More than then.
Someone tipped me off to this.
A sympathizer perhaps ?
I would like to see Therien and Cassidy's face right now

If you were able to see the discussion, you would realize that I was not doing any trash talking.
How memories change over time.
I was actually adhering to Roberts' Rules of order.
9 years with the NS Trails Federation will do that to you.
People had threatened me physically.
They backed down.
They had no argument, simply rage.
A little funny, then and now.
Of course, not everybody was like this.
What did you say Cassidy... "mixed ice climbing is a bit contrived"
Maybe with the gear that you had yikes (ha ha)

I had called up Squamish, Boulder, and a few other climbing centres.
It seemed that the general Nova Scotian view on dry tooling was more than a tad askew at that time.
People dry tooled freely in those centres without being questioned or threatened.
Seeing how far NS climbers were away from the norm, and the irrational behavior of some, I removed myself from the insanity of the "discussion".
Then I just dry tooled with friends.
I cannot see any environmental tragedies in this area.
I checked with the EAC.
People still dry tool.
I have NO intention of re-entering such insanity on this forum (no disrespect to this forum intended).
I will not even check back with this chat.
I did not check "notify me when a reply is posted"
noamsayin'

I will meet in person though (497-9478).

If you or anybody would like to comment on my position, in stead of ripping me apart in a virtual world, let's meet in the phenomenal world face to face with dignity.
It's quite simple, perhaps rational.
Come on, please.
It would be fun
(was that too much?... Nah!)



take care,

namaste

Sean

[Zamboni]

Sean,

I was wondering if this would bring you around, welcome back. We've had the pleasure, I'm the only Conan you have ever met.

And I agree, Cassidy's gear is contrived.

Take care,

Conan.

[seanT]

Ahhhh yes the old dry toolin debate...Those were some fun times and prime example of how a internet forum is the wrong place for people to discuss things that are important to them. On a serious note though dry tooling in the LOC would suck, if someone drytooled up "when stars attack" for instance the crimper at the crux would be seriously altered..perhaps not pried off..but damaged for certain. And to dry tool only on boulders that are still covered in lichen would blow also as there may be some quality stuff under there for boulderers. Even the really really small boulders are turning out some cool problems. I have started developing a kids circuit with Luc( 5yrs old) so far he has 3 FA's at the lunch box boulders and 2 at the burnt pizza boulders. These boulders are so small adults would just walk past them and not even notice but super cool for little munchkins to throw down on. Drytooling on these would be a shame. Anyway keep it real and keep it clean.
SeanT out!

[Corniaud]

Dry tooling on existing route or boulder problem?!

I just hope it's a joke man! There's place to dry tool!

[tintanium]

Bouldering with tools would be pretty lame. Almost as lame as...well...bouldering.

[Matt Peck]

WOW. Yeah, pretty sad when people think I was serious. Rest assured, My tools won't be going any nearer to the LOC than I will be this winter. Hey Drohan, up for scratching up some NS choss at somepoint? I think we'd have some good stories for each other.