Half ropes vs singles

[GKelly]

Im not sure if this has come up here before but it was news to me. I see a number of yall climb with double half ropes very loyally. You should read this.

[GKelly]

Ohh yeh the link. http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2006/11/ ... 0.html?m=1

[STeveA]

That report was very confusing. He talks about half ropes, but is he refering to twins or doubles? With twin ropes they are both clipped into every piece so very similar to a single rope thus should be tested ogether. With doubles you are supposed to clip both ropes into the first piece and then you can alternate. Even though most of the force will be on 1 rope the second double will absorb some force. Definately a good idea to examine common practices to make sure they are safe, however this study is not clear to me.

[GKelly]

I am quite certain they are talking about half ropes not twins. If you consider a route with sparse gear i am quite sure almost 100 per cent off the force is on your rope clipped to your highest gear. I just thought it was quite interesting. Personally i climb with doubles only on meandering routes or those requiring lots or long raps. Beefy ropes make me feel more warm and fuzzy.

[STeveA]

I have had single ropes chopped during climbs by rockfall but I have never had 2 doubles cut at the same time. Beefy is nice, but is a single point of failure.

[chossmonkey]

That report was very confusing. He talks about half ropes, but is he refering to twins or doubles? With twin ropes they are both clipped into every piece so very similar to a single rope thus should be tested ogether. With doubles you are supposed to clip both ropes into the first piece and then you can alternate. Even though most of the force will be on 1 rope the second double will absorb some force. Definately a good idea to examine common practices to make sure they are safe, however this study is not clear to me.

They tested half ropes. Basically the hang tag stats given for half ropes are skewed because they use a lighter weight in the UIAA drop tests for half ropes than singles. I'm still a little confused as well since they seem to be implying that in an actual fall on a single half rope it will load your piece more than if you just had a soft catching single.

Clipping both into one piece will give you extra high loading on your gear and yourself if you fall and probably not a good idea unless the ropes are rated as twins as well.