West Lake

[Rowan]

I've been wondering for about the climbing around West Lake, which is just past North Preston on the north side of town.
Back in the spring a friend was visiting who was not a climber but a pretty hardcore hiker, so we ended up ticking off all the classic hikes around here. One of which was the Crowbar trail, which is a long (14km loop) steep trail that passes all sort of nice, but often mossy, blocks in the forest. At the far end of the loop is West Lake, which is surrounded by little bluffs and boulders among the trees, and at the far end of the lake is a cliff line with a bunch of Squamishy blocks at the base and one *really* nice looking, but relatively short, finger crack. Back in town I took a gander at the NS Rock book but didn't see any mention of this place.
A few weeks ago I decided to go back for another look, but this time I cunningly found a shortcut to West Lake (involves driving down a long dirt road to an abandoned summer camp - not a place you'd want to spend the night) which cut the walk down to a couple of kms to West Lake. And reaching the cliff again I noticed that somebody else had been up there: there was a nut, either a bailer or just stuck, halfway up that sweet crack.
Anybody know what the deal is with this place, if it's been picked over or is being 'developed'? As far as bouldering goes it's a bit of a hike to get there, even with the shortcut, but it is a nice area with a few gems hidden in the trees. Plus one really tall monolith right in the parking lot at the Crowbar side, with a prominent line up its prow that has definitely seen some traffic.

[chameleon]

Hey Rowan, get outta my backyard! (jus kidding).
That cliff is shown on the hiking trail maps as the "Crows Nest" - not to be confused with Terence Bay's Crows Nest.
The crack was top roped by Michelle Lloyd, Gavin and crew earlier this year and they called it "Hilary". That crew also cleaned off some of the boulders at the base, which are fun but sharp.

I lead "Hilary" this summer but had to hang dog my way up on account of weakness. The moves are great and the gear is good but it's tricky to place. About 10d I'd say. Get on it! The only thin spot for gear is at the bottom. After numerous ground up attempts, I resorted to fiddling in that nut while stemming between the rock and the bendy spruce tree. (dubious tactics i know!) Decided to leave the nut there for future attempts, since the pre-placed nut is so much easier to clip. If you think it's an eyesore I can take it out.

Sean

[chameleon]

More info here:

http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5832&hilit=Lake+Echo

[seanT]

I think you are a eyesore...
just kidding you look "mahvalous" especially with that fancy new green Arctyrex jacket your sporting!!!!

[Rowan]

Thanks for the backstory & link. I don't think I'll be getting up in that - on the sharp end at least - but Sonnie Trotter might need a new project since he just bailed from El Cap. He can decide whether he needs the in situ gear.
What about the big rock at the Myra Road parking lot - I don't see it covered on your '09 posting? That's a nice piece of stone, and the approach is measured in centimetres.

[chameleon]

R:

The boulder in the Myra parking lot was cleaned by Rich. Not sure of grade or name.
About 300m up the road from there is a small collection of good boulders (same side of road) developed by Zig mostly I think.

ST:

“Subtropical storms ..............................are given names because of their strength,” explains Rob Davis, a meteorologist at The Weather Network.

[Rich]

The high crack / arete is pretty easy - V2ish. Luke et al. did another line on the back too.