Mount Douglas - East Face

[Greg]

Here is some background info about Mount Douglas. Stacey and I took a close look at this cliff back in 2008 and then starting working on it in the spring of 2010. We did some gardening, trail work, removed garbage and cleaned a bunch of routes. I realize that this cliff has been explored and probably climbed before. From this thread http://climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5570&p=28310&hilit=douglas&sid=eb30e36037fe6cd55045853790927ed8#p28310 we can glean that Pete Lloyd put up some routes a while back (1990's??). There are two pins on the obvious weakness in the center of the cliff on a ledge about thirty feet off the deck. Other than that there is no record or evidence of any routes or climbing on this cliff that we have been able to find. I contacted Pete a number of times inquiring about what he did there and have not heard back from him. Based on this info we climbed some routes put names on them and made some notes. If they have already been done I would be happy to rewrite what I have once I get the information.

As with any climbing area there is potential for friable, rotten rock. This cliff is no exception. I feel I would be remiss not to mention that folks should be extra careful in judging rock quality for the purpose of both protection placement and for climbing in general at this cliff. There are lots of bomber cracks but there are some suspect ones too. By the way, if you see a bolt near a crack, there is a good reason for it.

Mount Douglas - East Face is the obvious cliff directly across the highway from the Welsford Golf Course. Park at the stub of the future north Welsford exit of the new highway. It is quiet here now but there will likely be more road work in the fall of 2011. From the stub head west on a path that leads through a small field to the woods. From here you will pick up a clearly marked trail that will take you to the base of the cliff. Allow about 15 minutes of hiking time. The routes listed go from left to right. There are a few projects waiting to be sent but room for more. I am guessing there is between 20 to 30 lines there altogether. We chose the name based on the fact that Mount Douglas is the proper name for the hill and East Face since there are two other crags on the same hill (Bald Peak and The Quarry). The cliff gets early morning sun and is generally in the shade by late afternoon. From the base you can scramble to the top by either taking a path on the right or left side of the cliff. There is a water source on the right hand side (north) of the cliff and there is good camping near the summit.


1. Geocache 5.7 G 50’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes 2011.07.23       
FFA: G. & S. Hughes 2011.07.23  
Located on the upper left side of the cliff near the approach trail to the summit. Climb the corner crack system up and exit the corner left to a low angle slab with a series of diagonal cracks.

2. Serpents volants 5.7+ G 50'/N/T
FA: M. Harnois, D.Caron July 2011
FFA: D.Caron, L. Gallant, M. Thériault 2011.09.04
At the very left end of the cliff you'll encounter two alcoves. This route is just right of Geocache in the left-most alcove. Start on a horizontal crack and shift your weight over to a vertical. After a few moves you'll be under a mini-roof full of cracks just left of the arête. Pull it then head for the Pine tree. Really exposed for a short route!

3. Split Decision 5.8 PG 60' / N / R (2)
FA: G. Hughes 2011.08.30
FFA: G. Hughes & F. Berube 2011.08.31
Found around the corner to the right from Geocache. Climb the corner crack system to a roof then move slightly right to another crack. Exit roof to the right then join the upper part of BNM.

4. Broke Neck Mountain 5.7 PG 60' / M (1) / R(2)
FA: G. & S. Hughes 2010.07.31
FFA: G. & S. Hughes 2011.08.30
Start is around the corner from Geocache in the next corner/slab. Optional bolt clip off the deck and then step right aiming for the crack system on the right half of the slab. The rock on the arete is not solid enough for pro so be sure to place gear in the cracks toward the inside corner. After topping out on the slab continue up the crack system to the anchor.

5. IDOPROFEN 5.11 G 70'/N/R(2)
FA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault 2011.09.04
FFA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault 2011.09.04
Found at the left end of the cliff still on the main wall just before going around the corner to the shorter climbs. Climb the sustained right trending and slightly overhanging hand crack to gain a good ledge. Another small but easier crux off the ledge and then continue up easier climbing straight up to top and finish at shared bolted rap station. This is a full-on jam crack with great pro, a rare find in these parts. Tape gloves strongly recommended and bring lots of 1in to 3in cams.

6. Kinetic Crack 5.10a G 100' / N / R(2)
FA: Unknown
FFA: G. & S. Hughes 2010.10.31

Start is in the middle of the cliff just up and left of the most rounded part of the lower slab below a vertical crack system. Climb the twin finger cracks to a merging hand crack and mantle up onto a huge ledge at about 25 feet. Move right to a ramp (2 old pins). Take the weakness up the ramp and then continue up crack system aiming for the overhanging right facing dihedral. After gaining the top of the dihedral step up and right to anchor. It is wise to climb this in two pitches due to the wandering nature of the route. Suggested belays are the at the first big ledge or the ledge below the overhanging dihedral.

The next four routes are found on the right (north) half of the cliff. They all start on a ledge about 30 feet off the deck. Access to this ledge is gained by walking to the far right hand side.

7. Sunset Boulevard 5.9 80' / M (4) / T
FA: G. & S. Hughes 2010.10.31
FFA: G & S. Hughes 2011.08.12
The route starts directly in front of a large Pine tree below a bolt. Climb up past the bolt to gain a left trending ramp. Continue up ramp clipping two more bolts before moving left to last bolt. From here continue up and slightly left to a stance followed by a crack system up through a gulley to another Pine tree.

8. Vapour Trails 5.10a 70' / M (5) / T
FA: S. Hughes 2011.05.15
FFA: G. & S. Hughes 2011.08.12
Start is ten feet right of Sunset. Another left trending ramp to a flake then straight up over a bulge to a crack system leading to a Spruce tree anchor.

9. Brâille Pas 5.8 G 60'/N/R(2)
FFA: M, Thériault, D. Caron 2011.08.12
Found on the big ledge at the right of the crag, start 10' right of the big tree on an overhanging wave, climb over the the overhang then follow a series of ledges to the anchor.

10. Kickstart 5.8 60' / M (2) / T
FA: S. & G. Hughes 2011.05.15
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Hughes, Z. Taylor 2011.08.21
Start is directly below a left trending overhanging crack/flake near the right hand side of the big ledge. It is recommended to build a gear anchor to protect belayer (narrow ledge). Plug some gear into the crack and then crank a few bouldery moves to a ledge. Continue up from ledge to a balancey slab (bolt). Gain another ledge, pull another boulder move and then continue up easier ground to spruce tree anchor.

[GKelly]

Thanks for all the hard work Greg! Stoked to check it out.

[Dom]

IMO it offers the best backcountry campsite in the region.

Ohh and there are probably a couple of 5.14's here too... hehe

[theriault]

IMO it offers the best backcountry campsite in the region.

+1 Please respect it and keep it clean!

[Dom]

This is a second cliff found at Mount Douglas:

LES DALLES DE ST-ANSELME
Les Dalles are found 5 min uphill from the main cliff at Mount Douglas. When you get to the main cliff, head up right of the main cliff and you'll get to a little stream. Follow that stream up and you'll see a trail marked with pink flagging tape that leads to the right. It'll bring you to the ''Dalles''. The geology here is quite particular as there are a good number of pockets on a bomber granite slab. So far there are 4 sport routes here and two mix routes. There is room for more routes on the dirty parts of the cliff. The routes listed go from left to right. FA in the description means the First free ascent.

LE JARDINIER DES DALLES 5.5 G 80'/M(3)/R(2)
FA: L. Gallant, M. Thériault, D. Caron 2011.09.11
This moderate route starts left of a tree stump. Climb up aiming for a vertical crack. Then make your way up using pockets and a big flake. Before Luc invested some time in this route, it was a jungle. This route would be a good first lead for a beginner climber and is very enjoyable for a regular climber.

BAILLE-Y DE LA FRICTION 5.9+ 80'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: M. Thériault, L. Gallant, D. Caron 2011.09.11
Look for 3 closely spaced bolts at the bottom. Climb up this route using your slab technique. Trust those feet! There is an optional BD #2 at the top.

LE TI-STORE 5.7 80'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: M. Thériault, D. Caron, L. Gallant 2011.09.10
Climb the middle line of the wall. Start on harder terrain and make your way up the easier end. Optional BD # 0.75 at the top.

2 TOURS 5.7+ 80'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: D.Caron, M. Thériault, L. Gallant 2011.09.10
Locate the route with Metolius hangers. Climb the 3 small cruxes to get you to the top. Optional BD # 0.75 at the top.

The next two routes start from the ledge on the right.

C'EST LOIN DU LAUNDROMAT 5.8 45'/S(3)/R(2)
FA: M. Harnois, D. Caron 2011.09.11
Climb the slabby start that leads to a small headwall. Pull the headwall and then scramble the 5.0 terrain to the anchors.

GENDRON GÉDÉON LE JAMBON 5.6 G 45'/M(1)/R(2)
FA: M. Harnois, D. Caron 2011.09.11
Climb the short right facing layback that leads to a bolt. mantel over the bolt and then proceed to the same anchors as C'est loin du Laundromat. It's too bad the layback isn't longer but fun nonetheless.

[STeveA]

Some more history for the cliff:

The army cadets used to have a week long camp near the base of the cliff each year. Terry Lawrence was the cook for the camp, and they would scramble and rappel on the cliff. It was also used to teach radio communications, and they would often have wire run all over the cliff. If you find any old wiring it is probably from this. I don't think they did any serious climbing, but they were all over the area.

The earliest exploration I am aware of was by Julien Marceau back in 1981. He hiked in a few times, but then thought he found an abandoned mine so stopped going in to the cliff. He did not climb any routes.

Pete and his girl friend, Biz, definately climbed several routes on the cliff, but other than a couple of obvious cracks the routes would have been top roped. I don't remember him naming or cleaning any of the routes since they moved to the kingston Peninsula and started climbing there instead. This would be around 1990.

I am sure that any routes that may have been climbed in the past are only of interest in a historical context. The work and effort by Greg and Stacey should give them the right to name and grade the routes.

[*Chris*]

Anyone who puts effort in developing new crags and routes deserve appreciation. Greg, Stacey, Dom, Marty, & Luc - you all certainly have mine.

Steve - thanks for the history addition. It's great that the collective memory hasn't been lost for these areas. Totally appreciated.

Great thread!

[Burley]

Yeah... Good work folks!

[theriault]

new routes at "LES DALLES DE ST-ANSELME"

Maman Linda 5.8 G 80'/M(4)/R(2)
FA: M. Thériault, L. Gallant 18/09/11
First route from the left side on the cliff, climb the slab past 2 bolts to a ledge then climb balancy crimps on the final head wall.

Le Busy-Bee 5.8 G 80'/M(3)/B(2)
FA: L. Gallant, M. Thériault 18/09/11
Second route from the left, climb the slab past 3 bolts and gear then continue up and slightly right to a vertical crack/arret to the anchor.

[Stacey]

Everyone should definitely go check out the cliff.
Greg did a great job on the trail, and all over the cliff & base...
great views from the summit as well.

Love the rock, and great friction!

[Greg]

Another route at Mt. Doug.....

Deflector 5.10c 30' / M (1) / B (2)
FFA: G. Hughes, D. Caron, M. Harnois 2011.09.17
This route is found at the far left end of the cliff near the approach trail to the summit. Just left of Geocache is an alcove and roof. Climb up through the roof exiting right to a rail and series of flakes. Continue over vertical face to lower angle crack system and anchor.

At the moment the anchor does not have rap rings but there is an easy walk off. I intend on putting some rap rings on it soon.

[Fred]

LES DALLES DE ST-ANSELME are hot!!! I had a BLAST on these routes today!! Amazing quality. This is a great addition to NB climbing. Incroyable le travail que vous avez fait les boys et filles.

Here is a photo.

[Dom]

LES DALLES DE ST-ANSELME are hot!!! I had a BLAST on these routes today!! Amazing quality. This is a great addition to NB climbing. Incroyable le travail que vous avez fait les boys et filles.

Here is a photo.

IMG_5911.jpg

I just saw this message. Nice picture. It didn't originally look like this. When we first rapped it, we thought there would be a max of 3 routes on the dalles. After digging, cutting, unrolling,scrubbing,bolting there are now 9 routes. None of which are squeezed in or link-ups.

[Dom]

New route on les Dalles.

MANGEUR DE BAS 5.6 80'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: D. Caron 2011.10.12
FFA: D. Caron, C. Goodman 2011.10.29
This route has black hangers and is situated on the right of the two 5.7s. Bouldery Start on the detached flake to gain a ledge. From the ledge climb a few slabby moves and head for the hueco at the top. Finish on the same anchor as C'est loin... This is a very well protected sport climb and would be a great candidate for a first lead.

The route is all clean, get on 'er!

[Melissa Bordage]

Dan and I checked out the slab climbs yesterday and we had so much fun! Thanks for everyones hard work! I'm looking forward to getting out with someone who climbs Trad so i can try out more routes at this place!

[Greg]

Two more routes at Doug......

Colt 45 5.7 G 110’ / M (3)/ R(2)
FA: G. Hughes, Z. Taylor 2011.11.12       
FFA: G. & S. Hughes, Z. Taylor 2011.11.19  
Start is the same for Dog Fight. After gaining long ledge system traverse right to a pair of pitons. Climb up ramp with pitons and continue the angling traverse to gain a good foot ledge. Traverse right to a bolt protected slab. Continue up slab and finish through a series of horizontal cracks clipping one more bolt at the crux. Gear is good but at your feet on the foot traverse, however, this could be done as a hand traverse as well. A 60 meter rope will get you to the ground.

Reach For The Sky 5.10a G 110' / M (5) / R(2)
FA: Z. Taylor 2011.11.12
FFA: Z. Taylor 2011.11.19
Start is the same for Dog Fight. After gaining long ledge system traverse right passing a pair of pitons, continue to two bolt anchor. Belay here or continue up in one long pitch. Move off the deck to sloping hold which will be a 5.10 move for taller folks - significantly harder for the vertically challenged. Continue up steep, pumpy climbing on good holds to large ledge. Climb up bolt protected slab and finish through a series of horizontal cracks clipping one more bolt at the crux. A 60 meter rope will get you to the ground.

Congrats on your first FFA Zach! Very nice route.

[Stacey]

routes at Doug......


Reach For The Sky 5.10a G 110' / M (5) / R(2)
FA: Z. Taylor 2011.11.12
FFA: Z. Taylor 2011.11.19
Start is the same for Dog Fight. After gaining long ledge system traverse right passing a pair of pitons, continue to two bolt anchor. Belay here or continue up in one long pitch. Move off the deck to sloping hold which will be a 5.10 move for taller folks - significantly harder for the vertically challenged. Continue up steep, pumpy climbing on good holds to large ledge. Climb up bolt protected slab and finish through a series of horizontal cracks clipping one more bolt at the crux. A 60 meter rope will get you to the ground.

Congrats on your first FFA Zach! Very nice route.

Excellent work Zach...those first few moves are intimidating!! Kudos to you kiddo!

[Zach Taylor]

routes at Doug......


Reach For The Sky 5.10a G 110' / M (5) / R(2)
FA: Z. Taylor 2011.11.12
FFA: Z. Taylor 2011.11.19
Start is the same for Dog Fight. After gaining long ledge system traverse right passing a pair of pitons, continue to two bolt anchor. Belay here or continue up in one long pitch. Move off the deck to sloping hold which will be a 5.10 move for taller folks - significantly harder for the vertically challenged. Continue up steep, pumpy climbing on good holds to large ledge. Climb up bolt protected slab and finish through a series of horizontal cracks clipping one more bolt at the crux. A 60 meter rope will get you to the ground.

Congrats on your first FFA Zach! Very nice route.

Excellent work Zach...those first few moves are intimidating!! Kudos to you kiddo!

Thanks guys, definitely a fun route

[GKelly]

The sun was on the slabs yesterday. Made for Perfect temps. We polished off all the routes and they are all fantastic. Perfect bolt placements and super clean. Nice work guys. Thanks a lot.

[Dom]

The sun was on the slabs yesterday. Made for Perfect temps. We polished off all the routes and they are all fantastic. Perfect bolt placements and super clean. Nice work guys. Thanks a lot.

Awesome!

D'you notice if the main wall at Mount Doug was dry? I have a project there in the black dihedral but am waiting for it to be dry before scrubbing...
Black usually means wet this time of year but this Spring has been really dry. For instance Gumby roof was dry on Saturday.

[SteveK]

I'll echo Greg's comments. The slabs are a ton of fun! An amazing amount of work was put into establishing the routes there... Great work guys!

[GKelly]

I would say you should be good Dom. I checked out idoprofen. Looks amazing. Going to get back there asap

[theriault]

I checked out idoprofen. Looks amazing. Going to get back there asap

Get on her Dude! its one of me favorite in the Welsford area! A one of a kind around here!

[Dom]

New route on les Dalles.

MANGEUR DE BAS 5.6 80'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: D. Caron 2011.10.12
FFA: D. Caron, C. Goodman 2011.10.29
This route has black hangers and is situated on the right of the two 5.7s. Bouldery Start on the detached flake to gain a ledge. From the ledge climb a few slabby moves and head for the hueco at the top. Finish on the same anchor as C'est loin... This is a very well protected sport climb and would be a great candidate for a first lead.

The route is all clean, get on 'er!

After switching it to 5.7 earlier this year, i've downgraded it back and permanently to 5.6 after. Many go on it last night and confirmed it was 5.6, myself included.

I've also reajusted Serpents volants from 5.7+ to 5.8 and 2 tours from 5.7+ to 5.7. I'm done with + grades hehe . These adjustments are shown in the new routes log.

I also added a regular anchor on Le busy-bee as the FA party had just left 2 hangers.
On that note, there is still a bolts with hangers anchor (no rings) on Baille-y de la friction and someone allegedly rapped off that yesterday . Not good for your rope