Rope?

[Zamboni]

Whats are something's to look for in a good rope.

Is Millet a trusted Brand?

Is $169 a good price for 60m of 10.4mm?

CB.

[martha]

first think about what you want the rope for. mostly top roping? leading? trad? sport?

If you want it for mostly top roping, go with a thicker rope, 10.5mm or even an 11mm. The sheeth is thicker on these ropes, so little more durable for beginner rope climbers who aren't as efficient at setting anchors with little drag etc.

If you want to lead sport/trad, go with a 10.5mm or 10 mm. I have a 10mm and love it. it is light weight and great.

think about where you'll be climbing. are there rappells that are 30 m? if so, you need a 60 M rope. I wouldn't get anything shorter than that anyways.

You should get something with the middle marked. I personally don't mind spending the extra 15$ for a duodess or bi-color rope. When setting up for rappells, it makes life much easier. Also it is easy for the belayer to tell when the leader is at the halfway point.

Dry or non-dry? if you aren't ice climbing, don't waste your money. just get a non dry rope.

"Impact force measures a rope's elasticity and ability to absorb energy in a fall. The higher the impact force number, the more energy the rope will transmit to the belay system and the protection. Low impact forces make for a soft catch and are a benefit with uncertain protection or falls on short lengths, but they usually mean the rope will have a greater stretch, which can be a nuisance when top roping."

"Single ropes are tested by dropping an 80kg mass attached to a measured section of rope repeatedly until it snaps. The rating indicates the number of falls the rope withstood. Ropes that cannot withstand at least five falls are not approved." the larger the diameter of the rope..generally the more falls it will withstand.

Have fun!!!

[martha]

Whats are something's to look for in a good rope.

Is Millet a trusted Brand?

Is $169 a good price for 60m of 10.4mm?

CB.

The most common brands are Mammut, Beal, Edelrid, Sterling and Blue Water Ropes. I have used Mammut, Beal and Edelrid and like all three. I haven't heard much about 'Millet'.

[Fred]

I used to be a fan of Mammut ropes but I've lost interest in them. They seem to dry up and get very stiff. I had a Beal Booster 9.8 for sport that was wicked but not very toprope friendly because of the stretch. Also makes for a quick wearing rope. It didn't last long but it was nice while it did. I now have an Edelrid Livewire (10.5 dry 60m) and I love it. It's a nice lifeline.

[mitchleblanc]

Is the opposite of a dry rope a wet rope?

I have heard, and believe, that buying a "dry" rope is better in all circumstances to buying a wet rope. Dunno man, it's gonna save your life, don't be cheap. Keeping water and other crap out = a good idea.

Ex: A friend dumping a load of windshield washer fluid on your rope... just maybe that dry coating will save the day.

As for rope length, get a 60 m, I think it's best, because you can't wish 50 was longer, when you can't reach the ground in one rap. And I would never get an 11 mm again, unless you are the top-roping king. I reckon I'd go with 10 or 10.5 (and yeah, .5 does make a big diff.)

But then, I probably will never own another rope in my life, so I recommend the Franklin Drop Zone crashpad.

ps: I think Mammut ropes suck ass. I had an Edelrid (sp?) that was great.

[mitchleblanc]

I do realize I didn't really answer your post, and you didn't really ask any of those question. I was just adding my two cents to what Martha wrote.

[Zamboni]

Thats funny, the Franklin crashpad was option B. I already have a pad so couldn't justify getting another "yet".

If anybody is looking for deals on climbing gear, the sports check in Halifax shopping center got a shippment of gear by mistake, everything is on sale. There's a Pad reg 200, on sale for 169.

CB.

[granite_grrl]

Thats funny, the Franklin crashpad was option B. I already have a pad so couldn't justify getting another "yet".

If anybody is looking for deals on climbing gear, the sports check in Halifax shopping center got a shippment of gear by mistake, everything is on sale. There's a Pad reg 200, on sale for 169.

CB.

I was going to have my parents buy me a new pad for xmas. I was thinking the Drop Zone, but I could be presuaded to ask for a different one. What kind of pad is at Sport Check/Coast Mountain Sports? A Flash?

And on the subject of ropes: I have a Mammut Flash (10.5mm, 60m), and think it's a great all around rope. The bi-colour is pretty cool, but in the Flash too much extra money to pay for me. I'd like a 10mm in addition to this, and I'm also really tempted to get the Mammut Gennises double ropes (great for wandering pitches and double rope rappells, not that I really need this in Ontario, but it would be great for travelling). I wouldn't go with anything other than a 60m, unless you already have a 60m that you could use when you needed it (and then you can hump a lighter 50m rope to the shorter crags of NS).

Wish I could recomend more, Martha's post was pretty good though.

(oh, and dry coatings wear off, if someone dumped anything toxic on my rope, new dry coating or not, I'm retiring it).

Good luck!

[The Teth]

My only input is that when cooling my 60m rope my arms get awfully tired in on the last 10 m. However, mine is 10.5 mm and this might be rectified by getting a lighter 10 mm rope. There are not a lot of climbs near Halifax which require a 60 m rope (bought mine when I lived in California) however the longer rope might be useful if travailing. Might come in handy at Welsford and Cape Clear, although I have not yet climbed at either, so I am not sure.

The difference between dry and non dry is that the water proofing is applied to the dry before it is woven so that each fibre is treated, while the non dry rope is treated after it is made so the waterproofing is only on the outside. The non dry is fine for most top-roping if you take proper care of it, but if it starts to rain that could quickly become a problem. For epic climbs where you can’t just lower down immediately and go home if the weather turns, or if your ice climbing, you need a dry rope. Never hearts to get a dry rope anyway if you can afford it.

Teth

[martha]

60M is needed for Welsford.

Doubles rock. I love climbing on them. I have the Mammut Genisis also.

[tracstarr]

like you're ever going to use it. hahahaha. too late. you bought it now. maybe we can go repell off the building at the end of the road... give it a little test.

[mitchleblanc]

I was thinking the Drop Zone, but I could be presuaded to ask for a different one. What kind of pad is at Sport Check/Coast Mountain Sports? A Flash?

...

(oh, and dry coatings wear off, if someone dumped anything toxic on my rope, new dry coating or not, I'm retiring it).

It's funny that you mention flash pads. My buddy in HK is going to likely be getting one for his next pad, he said *his* friend told him they were awesome, as good or better than Franklin.. I think Zig would have some good input, but they do look nice on the website..

As for toxic chemicals.. we spent alot of time on chemical compatibility charts, and the guy decided not to retire the rope, I think... hahaha. Man, that's funny in retrospect. That's engineering for you though!

[Guest]

From what I've seen till now Franklin is the way to go.

[Ropeguy]

I have a Edelrid livewire 10.5 60m dry and will be purchasing another.Its an excellent rope.Kicked the flowers out of it toproping with some friends for the last 2 years and it has held up very well.As for coiling it you could fix the little problem of tired arms by simply going to the gym and growing yourself a set of 18" guns,haha!!(Sorry Teth)it is a little ackward new the end but 60 is the way to go!

[martha]

I have a Edelrid livewire 10.5 60m dry and will be purchasing another.Its an excellent rope.Kicked the flowers out of it toproping with some friends for the last 2 years and it has held up very well.As for coiling it you could fix the little problem of tired arms by simply going to the gym and growing yourself a set of 18" guns,haha!!(Sorry Teth)it is a little ackward new the end but 60 is the way to go!

18" Guns?? Man I've seen your biceps...and mine are bigger for sure.

hahaha

just teasing hun.

[dcentral]

I have a blue water 9.9m which is dual stiched I like it a lot.

I've also climbed on sterling ropes. The marathon version can take a lot of abuse.

[Zamboni]

I was going to have my parents buy me a new pad for xmas. I was thinking the Drop Zone, but I could be presuaded to ask for a different one. What kind of pad is at Sport Check/Coast Mountain Sports? A Flash?

I think its a Flashed Sensei, on sale for 169. There having there midnight madness sale saterday the 4th, 15% off everthing in the store.

CB.

[granite_grrl]

I think its a Flashed Sensei, on sale for 169. There having there midnight madness sale saterday the 4th, 15% off everthing in the store.

CB.

thanks for the heads up! I'll take a look at that pad on the internet, and if it interests me enough I'll "sugest" that my parents look at it for me for xmas.

Rebecca

[Jody]

I've had a flashed pad for a couple of years now with no complaints. Not sure what the actual name of the style is (it folds together in thirds), but it was just under $200 when I got it. I wouldn't have a problem recommending it to someone else...

-J

[Ropeguy]

Alright,Alright Martha!!! So I was off by an inch or so!! Does an inch really make that much difference!! Huh ! Does it little miss smarty pants!! Does it!!


Girlie arms Ropeguy

"Last one dead is a sissy"


Post Script
"I can take you"

[martha]

funny you ask if an inch really makes that much difference. You guys sure don't seem to think so...but I'm telling ya....it really really does.

biceps people...we are talking about biceps!

[Peter]

Stay focussed here folks, the thread is about ropes, not pads, not the impact of being an inch shy of full satisfaction ...

One last consideration, I didn't see scanning the posts above: if it is to be used as a top-rope, best to only use it as a top roped, and not for both TR and lead. See interesting technical article on point, if you are interested in such things:

Go to: http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/articles/article.htm and read the article on the 2002 link/button, entitled "May 2002 - Effect of Top-rope lowering on strength of Ropes".

[dcentral]

Cool link. I havn't been to that site before.

[Jody]

Hey thats cyril's site. That guy is a wealth of information. Super fast in the alpine too.

-J

[Guest]

Two of my friend has some millet ropes and did good use of them for years even with their relatively small diameter 9.7mm.

Milet is a brand from France and has a greater reputation in europe.

If it's your 1st rope, go for 10 - 10.5 mm not under. You will find it waer verry fast.

I personally love the Eidelwess ropes, but you can't find them in Nova Scotia and they are pretty expensive.

169$ for a rope, is a bit expensive 'cause you can find cheaper for about the same quality at mec.

Good luck with your purchase

Bert