Sunnyside New Route?

[Fred]

I've been going to Sunnyside lately working a few projects and I've noticed a new bolted line at the right end of the cliff with a bolt hanger missing. Is the bolt botched or is this a project? It's been bolted for some time now... just wondering if it's an open route. Looks nice!

[*Chris*]

Ha... I asked the same question last week! I heard that this is a project.

The thing about projects is that they can't go on forever. I'm headed to Sunnyside Thursday night and I got plenty o' hangers

[Fred]

So who's route is it?? It's been there for a while. It doesn't look that hard... must of been wet or something when they bolted it.

[cory]

Sounds like Andrew Martin's project, he's put up a few near there.

You're right Chris, projects can't go on forever. That being said, (I'm talking in general hypothetical terms here, not implying anybody in particular) if someone grabs the first ascent of another's project, yet has not invested the time, effort, and cash put up other routes of their own I would see that as the lowest form of bottom-feeding and would loose a lot of respect for said individual. A variety of events (and again not referring to this specific case, of which I know little) such as wetness as Fred speculated, work schedule changes, injury, hangers on backorder, may interfere with prompt completion of a project. Grace has been given for other routes, and I think this deserves it too. It's not like there isn't enough to keep a climber busy there for a day, or a lack of possible FA's to be had at Sunnyside.

[*Chris*]

No worries. I've got no intention to climb it. If I did it would have been easy enough to hang a nut on that stud last week.

Andrew... if it's yours than get er' done and open it up! It looks nice and clearly a lot of work has gone into it.



On another note: has anyone noticed the climbing to the immediate left of Entanglement? Its dirty but steep enough and well featured. I think I might throw a top rope on it tomorrow night. Has anyone else given it a go in the past?

[Andrew]

This route is mine. I've FA'd it. I put it up last year (2010) and finally got it bolted mid season (2011). I got out of shape over the mid winter and hurt my wrist and ankle making it rough to hike and climb. Those have subsided enough to top rope this route numerous times and was going to get the lead FFA a couple weekends ago; However, when I got there it was quite wet and didn't want to do it wet. Haven't been climbing much this season for various reasons, so I apologize for not getting this route on the roster earlier.

I plan on going to Sunnyside on Saturday to FFA it but need a partner who is experienced in lead belay so I can focus on the lead and not worry about the belay (ie: not my girlfriend who's belayed me on 4 routes tope roped).

Here's the details on the route at this point:

*********************

DYING EMBERS 5.9+ G 60'/M(6)/R(2)

FA: A. Martin 08 October 2010 (wet)
FFA:

Found on Sunnyside Wall. Start in the left facing corner using the slightly overhanging face, corner and arête to gain the large first ledge. Continue in the corner trending left onto face holds to gain a smaller second ledge. Continue up puzzle-cracked face to finish at rap hangers.

*********************

It's harder than it looks, but the holds are there and it's a beautiful route. I'll do my best to get'er FFA'd ASAP. Thanks to those who have respected my chance at the FFA. I haven't actually even attempted to lead it yet.

I have someone who may be coming up Saturday with me to lead it, but someone else wants to help me out in case they can't make it, i'd be grateful. F2E8 at Hotmail dot com if you want.

Andrew

[Dom]

On another note: has anyone noticed the climbing to the immediate left of Entanglement? Its dirty but steep enough and well featured. I think I might throw a top rope on it tomorrow night. Has anyone else given it a go in the past?

It's probably often wet? maybe that's why it hasn't been played on. That being said Fred and I toproped and cleaned a line to the left of Radioactive Rod and will be bolting it in the near future. It's probably also wet most of Spring because the rock is blackish.

Giv'er!

[Adam]

On another note: has anyone noticed the climbing to the immediate left of Entanglement? Its dirty but steep enough and well featured. I think I might throw a top rope on it tomorrow night. Has anyone else given it a go in the past?

Have always looked at this line and wanted to open it but never ended up putting in the time. I've never even climbed it. Enjoy! I will look forward to climbing it when i get back.

[theriault]

DYING EMBERS 5.9+ G 60'/M(6)/R(2)

FA: A. Martin 08 October 2010 (wet)
FFA:

Wasn't this supposed to be climbed last weekend... I might just swing by... presure's on lol

[Andrew]

My partners had other ideas for that saturday.

We're returning this sunday barring any other issues to get the route climbed.

I appreciate people respecting my chance to get the FFA. It's only been bolted for a month or so anway.

DYING EMBERS 5.9+ G 60'/M(6)/R(2)

FA: A. Martin 08 October 2010 (wet)
FFA:

Wasn't this supposed to be climbed last weekend... I might just swing by... presure's on lol

[cory]

Yeah Marty, back off. Don't you have a bunch of projects elsewhere?

[Andrew]

lol cory and marty.

I'm so excited to get on the sharp end for this route.

It's time to kick a$$ and chew bubblegum!

[theriault]

Yeah Marty, back off. Don't you have a bunch of projects elsewhere?

Don't worry, I'm not a route poacher! I just want the route sent so other people can climb it...I mean, its right there in your face when you hit sunnyside, its hard not to want to climb it!!!! I;m just f#$king around!

Andrew, the route looks sweet!

[Andrew]

Please add this new route to the "New Route" sticky thread --

*********
DYING EMBERS 5.9+ G 60'/S(6)/R(2)

FA: A. Martin 08 October 2010
FFA: A. Martin 11 September 2011

Found on Sunnyside Wall between Snakes & Arrows and Man Up Beaver. Start in the left facing corner using the slightly overhanging face, corner and arête. Move slightly right and up to gain the large first ledge. Continue in the corner trending left onto face holds to gain a smaller second ledge. Continue up puzzle-cracked face to finish at rap hangers.

*********

*Snakes & Arrows is just right of Black Dwarf*

Enjoy the new route!

PS: I welcome comments and would like to hear what grade other climbers feel it is after they have lead it. My climbing party felt it was 5.9 and maybe a little more.

[Fred]

Nice work! I just added your route to the list.

Did your second happen to get a clean send on TR? If so, they should be included in the FFA mention. Also, I took out the "G" rating because it's a sport route.

Looking forward to trying this route.

[Andrew]

Fred,

Tom Anderson

and thanks for updating the route list.

Nice work! I just added your route to the list.

Did your second happen to get a clean send on TR? If so, they should be included in the FFA mention. Also, I took out the "G" rating because it's a sport route.

Looking forward to trying this route.

[Dom]

Hey Andrew Dying embers is really good. It's very juggy! I'd say it'll become a Sunnyside classic. Good job

[Brian!]

Hey Andrew Dying embers is really good. It's very juggy! I'd say it'll become a Sunnyside classic. Good job

+1