New Routes

[Stacey]

sounds like it's time for a new edition

[Dom]

Cedar point now has 20 routes

http://mountainproject.com/v/cedar-point/107178515

[theriault]

We are more than likely over 200 new routes! and lets not forget all the new ICE routes, just throwing this out there, why not put the Ice guide in the next rock guide???

[*Chris*]

Current count for new routes in New Brunswick since guidebook.

Kingston 30
Cedar Point 15
Welsford 40
Sunnyside 23
Greenlaw 6
Hampton Marsh 5
Gondola Point 2
Bald Hill 41
Loch Lomond 11
Mt Douglas 3

TOTAL = 176
There are about 6-7 lines at Red Rock Mountain that Erick, myself, you, and a few others developed a few years back.

sounds like it's time for a new edition

That will be quite a handful of work for a single person to take on and do a quality job.
And I know that there are probably over a dozen more that have not yet been recorded.

[Dom]

I vote that the next edition drops the weird FA/FFA thing.

Who cares if someone made it up a route on TR, really. So I think we should just put FA: Joe Blow 2011.09.06 in the description and the FA will be for the first free ascent like everywhere else in the world.
If a route had been and aid climb for a long time before it became a free climb (i.e. Vagina/J'ai volé ta blonde) then we can put it in the description. ''Had been previously aid climbed by John Doe in 1886''

Eliminating the FA/FFA thing will also put to rest the: ''It's been climbed before...''
If it hasn't seen a ground-up ascent sans fall than it's never been climb period.

I understand the FA/FFA thing with big walls, but NB has crags, no big walls.

Anyways this is my opinion, not gospel.

[theriault]

I vote that the next edition drops the weird FA/FFA thing.

+1

[Fred]

New route today at Upper Tier. It's not the best route out there but it's another route nonetheless.

276.1. RÉCHAUFFEMENT 5.9 60'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: F.Bérubé 2011.09.16
FFA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault, L.Gallant 2011.09.17
At the right enf of Upper Tier there is an 'evil' looking area of loose rock that forms an arch. Climb the right side of the arch past a series of bolts that traverse left over the arch. Follow bolts to a bolted rap station. The third bolt is an awkward spot but was dictated by poor rock quality.



Also bolted Hitchhiker (old project) today in the Attic and spent alot of time cleaning it. I didn't have a belayer so please stay off until I can get back there and send it. The route is 90'/S(10)/R(2) and stick-clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. This is a great line and will be a nice addition to that sport wall.

thx

Fred

[cory]

You make it sound so appealing!

New route today at Upper Tier. It's not the best route out there but it's another route nonetheless.

[Fred]

It's a climb it if you are there and nothing else better to do kinda route. LOL

[theriault]

Its not that bad of a route!

[Fred]

New FFA today.

Marty flashed this route today and Stacey did all the crux moves on TR. It was a sending day!!

Downgraded to 5.11b but grade needs to be confirmed. Have at er.


241. HITCHHIKER 5.11b 80'/S(10)/R(2)
FA: T.Anderson 1997
FFA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault 2011.09.26
This is the free ascent of previously established TR project (see guidebook). Climb up the face at the far left end of the Attic. Technical and thin moves off the start to easier climbing. Gets pumpy towards the top. Stick-clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended and can be done on lower off from Joint Venture or 8 Four 7.

[theriault]

Marty flashed this route today and Stacey did all the crux moves on TR. It was a sending day!!

Fred, your making me feel like a superstar...bahaha

[Dom]

Fred, your making me feel like a superstar...bahaha

Pornstar Marty hehe

Downgraded to 5.11b but grade needs to be confirmed. Have at er.

Man I can't believe it only goes at 5.11. I haven't seen it since you bolted/cleaned but by looking at it, I always thought the start would go in the 5.12 range.

Anyways good job guys!

[Fred]

Let's wait for a grad confirmation.

It'd definitely much easier than Montezuma's. Comparable to Bone Machine maybe?

[Stacey]

You guys rock'd it today! Nice work!

[aaronhart]

at cedar point i cleared some pesky cedar trees and bushes on climbers left. farthest left climb. i would also like to put in a two bolt anchor between the farthest two anchor spots. this would open up another great top rope climbing route. love the climbing there its so fun and a great place to take people to enjoy there first out door experience. thank you earth.

[coryhal]

there are also 10 new routes that ian lingley put up in milford, and a bunch of sweet boulders, check it out.

http://mountainproject.com/v/green-head-cove/107157856

ps: dont be jenga is a sick line....probably harder than farewell to arms!

[Stacey]

WOW - looks like some pretty sweet routes! I can't wait to check it out - hopefully before this season ends!!! anyone have some pics?

[coryhal]

Magical mystery tour – 5.12a s(6)/r(2) 60 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley Oct. 2011

Locate 3 left trending bolts near the lowest part of the main face, just left of shooting monkeys in a barrel. Climb up and left , then back right to a cool flake near the top.


a few of the routes have finally got their second and third ascents.... a few grades should probably be adjusted:

hog9-5.7
shooting monkeys in a barrel-5.12c
regeneration-5.12a
bebop-5.10b
rock steady-5.11a
mcpeck arete-5.12b

the rest i think are accurate .

[Dom]

Magical mystery tour – 5.12a s(6)/r(2) 60 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley Oct. 2011

Locate 3 left trending bolts near the lowest part of the main face, just left of shooting monkeys in a barrel. Climb up and left , then back right to a cool flake near the top.


a few of the routes have finally got their second and third ascents.... a few grades should probably be adjusted:

hog9-5.7
shooting monkeys in a barrel-5.12c
regeneration-5.12a
bebop-5.10b
rock steady-5.11a
mcpeck arete-5.12b

the rest i think are accurate .

Bald hill is rad. I'm going back very soon! It's southern facing so should be warm this time of year people!

[Greg]

Magical mystery tour – 5.12a s(6)/r(2) 60 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley Oct. 2011

Locate 3 left trending bolts near the lowest part of the main face, just left of shooting monkeys in a barrel. Climb up and left , then back right to a cool flake near the top.


a few of the routes have finally got their second and third ascents.... a few grades should probably be adjusted:

hog9-5.7
shooting monkeys in a barrel-5.12c
regeneration-5.12a
bebop-5.10b
rock steady-5.11a
mcpeck arete-5.12b

the rest i think are accurate .

Bald hill is rad. I'm going back very soon! It's southern facing so should be warm this time of year people!

I agree with Dom. Bald Hill is fantastic and Deception Dyke is awesome!

[Leehammer]

I totally agree. I'm confused as to why it doesn't get more traffic. It is very unique sport climbing.

[Fred]

Cory:

Is Magical Mystery Tour the same route that was previously listed as a project in the New Routes Log?

Fred

[Fred]

Marty and I finished "the" new route today at Mt Doug. The biggest baddest route since "Bone Machine".

DOG FIGHT 5.11a G 100'/M(9)/R(2)
FA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
FFA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
This route is found on the tallest part of the main cliff 30 feet left of where the approach trail meets the wall. Start in a short chimney behind a large detached block. Protect with natural gear to reach out and clip a bolt then continue past a series of powerfull moves around and over a cool flake. Continue past another bolt to gain a nice rest ledge and follow the small corners right pluggin natural gear (runners recomended here) until you are standing underneath a large and wide roof feature. Clip a bolt to gain the large roof then traverse left for 15ft until you can get into the nice left facing dihedral. From here continue straight up past bolts to top and some awesome features. A thought provoking climb with fantastic varried climbing. An instant hit!

Enjoy!!

[coryhal]

fred, it is a completly new route and is not the unnamed listed project

[Greg]

Marty and I finished "the" new route today at Mt Doug. The biggest baddest route since "Bone Machine".

DOG FIGHT 5.11a G 100'/M(9)/R(2)
FA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
FFA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
This route is found on the tallest part of the main cliff 30 feet left of where the approach trail meets the wall. Start in a short chimney behind a large detached block. Protect with natural gear to reach out and clip a bolt then continue past a series of powerfull moves around and over a cool flake. Continue past another bolt to gain a nice rest ledge and follow the small corners right pluggin natural gear (runners recomended here) until you are standing underneath a large and wide roof feature. Clip a bolt to gain the large roof then traverse left for 15ft until you can get into the nice left facing dihedral. From here continue straight up past bolts to top and some awesome features. A thought provoking climb with fantastic varried climbing. An instant hit!

IMG_5909.jpg

Congrats gentlemen! Nicely done. Looking forward to leading this one!


Enjoy!!

[theriault]

Thanks Greg! The only thing missing on the rout is traffic! Everyone should get on it before the end of the season!

[Leehammer]

Is Dog Fight the only route not listed in the main Mount Douglas - East face thread?

[Leehammer]

It's a pretty sweet route. This whole cliff is awesome. Seems like there could be some more good long ones going up the main section. It will only get better with more traffic, too.

the slabs are fun too. I found the ones graded 5.7 harder than the ones graded 5.8.

Great work and thanks to all who contributed.

[Joe]

I thoroughly enjoyed Les Dalles, it's suburb rock. Thanks to all who worked at developing it. My 16 year old daughter Madeline had her first lead on Le Jardinier, quite exciting for her. I cleaned and lead a direct route starting at Le Jardinier and finishing on Busy Bee, a rather obvious direct trad line. Start up Jardinier, climb up over the small overhang towards the stump, and continue towards Busy Bees' final crack. All trad, but the microcam placement before the stump isn't great. It's around 5.6. I may have not been the first person to climb this because I heard that a couple of guys soloed all over this face earlier.