New Routes This Weekend - Mt Douglas

[Fred]

Climbed a new route today at Mt Douglas. This is the cliff accross the road from the Welsford Golf Course.

IDOPROFEN 5.11 G 60'/N/R(2)
FA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault 2011.09.04
FFA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault 2011.09.04
Found at the left end of the cliff still on the main wall just before going around the corner to the shorter climbs. Climb the sustained right trending and slightly overhaning hand crack to gain a good ledge. Another small but easier crux off the ledge and then continue up easier climbing straight up to top and finish at shared bolted rap station. This is a full-on jam crack with great pro, a rare find in these parts. Tape gloves strongly recommended and bring lots of 1in to 3in cams.

[Dom]

It was a good day there.

another new route:

Serpents volants 5.7+ G 50'/N/T
FA: M. Harnois, D.Caron July 2011
FFA: D.Caron, L. Gallant, M. Thériault 2011.09.04
At the very left end of the cliff you'll encounter two alcoves. This route is just right of Geocache in the left-most alcove. Start on a horizontal crack and shift your weight over to a vertical. After a few moves you'll be under a mini-roof full of cracks just left of the arête. Pull it then head for the Pine tree. Really exposed for a short route!

[theriault]

Brâille Pas 5.8 G 60'/N/R(2)
FFA: M, Thériault, D. Caron 2011.08.12
Found on the big ledge at the right of the crag, start 10' right of the big tree on an overhanging wave, climb over the the overhang then fallow a series of ledges to the anchor.

[theriault]

IDOPROFEN: This is an amazing route!! instant classic, 3 thumbs up! (tape gloves needed!!)

[Fred]

Here are a coule photos that Stacey took of my first attempt. Took me three ground up tries to get this one in the poor shape I'm in at the moment.

[Stacey]

WOOHOO! some great climbs & climbing for sure. GH'll put up the other routes & descriptions tonight/tomorrow...

[Greg]

WOOHOO! some great climbs & climbing for sure. GH'll put up the other routes & descriptions tonight/tomorrow...

I am still working on the Doug guide. I need to verify/confirm some details. I will post it as soon as it is done.

[coryhal]

shawn and i checked this place out on monday, there are some sweet lines, i think we did nine in all.

fred idoprofen is sweet, i did it without tape and got alittle beat up. 5.11 crack is very rare in nb.... good work!!