new project @ Kingston!

[motanb]

This past tuesday I began working (what I believe to be as of now untouched; corrections please if anyone else has already begun this particular project) what I believe will provide an excellent mid-11 sport route at Kingston Crag.

I have top-roped the short route (approx. 35-40 ft.?) as of now. Ian Lingley also worked some of the moves with me and vouched for the high quality of moves, rock etc.

The climb is slightly overhanging, with incult side-clings, sharp edges and large diagonal rails with positive holds (even a funky knee-bar)! It still requires some scrubbing off of remaining lichens etc. I have removed most loose rock, but as those who climb at Kingston know, one must be wary of sudden holds breaking off unexpectedly. I anticipate 4 bolts in total with either using the large spruce on top for an anchor or installing a station.

Now for describing the location. From the base of the crag looking at the wall, the project is left of 'Medusa' and the collection of slabby moderates that work their respective ways up to the large tree ledge belonging to Medusa etc. The project is on a distinct overhanging wall with a huge spruce on top. The wall is walked past as one heads to the far left side of Kingston Crag.

To the community at large: Please provide me some time to equip and red-point this line as I am very psyched to see its completion. Also, if anyone would be kind enough to loan a drill for the cause, I'd be ever grateful:)

All the best!

[motanb]

OK! So Ian and I finished the project(s) at Kingston. Both routes are short and sweet.

"Like White on Rice"- 5.12a/ 3b/rap station (still needs a maillon), FA: Ian Lingley, Tom Anderson FFA: Ian Lingley

"Veni, Vidi, Vici"- 5.11a/4b/rap station (still requires hangers and maillons etc.) FA: Tom Anderson, Ian Lingley FFA: Tom Anderson, Ian Lingley

Please feel free to hop on the climbs. They offer fun movement with positive holds on steep stone! We'll be back soon to fully equip the anchors. As of now, one can top-rope or rap in via the obvious trees on top.

[Andrew]

Nice work you two. I'll have to go check those out once I've gotten back into climbing shape

[Stacey]

NICE work guys! Can't wait to get out and see what they are about (though I won't be confirming grades for you )) hehe

Stace

[GKelly]

Nice work guys! I was on "like white in rice" the other day and its a great route. I sure appreciated the spacing of the bolts down low given the decking potential.

I would recommend to anyone getting on the route to hang a long sling from the anchor to clip to before you climb into "deck land".
I was super pumped when I reached the anchor and if I had fallen clipping the anchor I was likely to hit the ground... That would be bad.

Not bashing your job at all guys. It's an awsome route and many thanks are in order.

Greg,

[theriault]

I have not seen this route yet, but from your description, would an anchor made of these work...?

http://www.fixeusa.com/chain_anchor.htm

if so, this would be an easy fix

[GKelly]

I was back there yesterday evening and tried the long sling. It hangs in the perfect place in my opinion. I think a chain would have to be too long and ugly.
By the way, one of the best holds is now about half the size. My apologies. Perhaps a weight loss plan is in order. I don't think it affects the difficulty of the route or the awsomeness.

[aaronhart]

dont for get this guy. i was running around holding ropes tight for drilling and grabing shoes and wirebrushes. the climbs so tough u need to be like white on rice to scramble up them. i tried and failed. haha

[PeterA]

I added these routes to the database, however I don't think my descriptions are quite adequate. If you could send me better ones Tom I'll update the database. Good routes!

-PJ

[motanb]

Sounds good PJ. I'll forward you descriptions soon! All the best.