Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

[*Chris*]

I don't often have much to say on here anymore (*gasp*) but I will say that when the Reindeerland anchor gets replaced, Please PLEASE keep it on top of the block. Topping out Reindeerland and taking a moment on the 'best seat in the house' is probably the coolest thing about that route, and is certainly a right of passage for so many newcombers.

There isn't consensus about this. Of the 4 people I've talked to about this 2 want the anchors to stay were they are, and the other 2 want them moved to the face. I've been trying to think of a win-win?

We could do a single rap hanger over the face where the ring would be backed up via chain to another bolt on top of the block. A 3rd bolt on the block would serve to build your anchor from. However, without a long stainless steel chain it wouldn't be possible... and it'll still likely be awkward... but maybe with more options for being awkward.


This might all be moot anyway. I couldn't get a drill last weekend from anyone so I gave some anchor hardware to Greg on Sunday with the understanding he'd figure it out on his own this week. It might already be done.

[Dom]

Luc and I rebolted and added an anchor (2x maillon + 2x perma lockers) to Farewell to Arms

Awesome! Good job guys! Where is the anchor installed?

Here is what the list looks like now:

-Leviathan
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt)
-Waterfall arête
-Montezuma's rebolted
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Rock Opera
-The Central Scrutinizer
-Perfect
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted
-Joint venture rebolted, anchor added
-Witches
-Talamasca
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird
-Taz
-Bugs Bunny
-Yosemite Sam
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted
-Farewell to arms rebolted, anchor added
-The Juggler
-Grandpa's demise
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted
-Sleeping beauty anchor rebolted, 1 out of 6 bolts rebolted
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted and anchor added in 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted in 2009 by Dave Peabody
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor

[theriault]

Awesome! Good job guys! Where is the anchor installed?

The new anchor is just past the small tree (above the crux)... from the anchor, it would be easy to climb the remaining 10 ish feet to get to the camp site... I'll give it a little scrub next time I'm up there!

[Fred]

In my opinion, wear is a non-issue for the circular Fixe rap stations since the rope is not always forced in the same location. It's only a concern on D-shape gear such as maillons, chains, fixed sport draws, etc.

I think this notion of never lowering on fixed gear came long before these new Fixe stations were invented.

[Fred]

You can put the bolt station for Reindeer Land on the face but then I'll put one in on the top.

[Greg]

I have not got to Reindeerland yet but my plan is to get it done by Saturday. I also plan on leaving the location status quo on top of the block. I will try to improve the chain set up for rapping. Thanks to Chris Norfolk for the donation of hardware.

[cory]

Perhaps 2 bolts on the top, but closer to the lip than their current location. Add 2 short lengths of chain that'll just reach over the lip for lowering. That way 1) you can sit on the top without a being violated by a bolt, 2) you still top out the climb, 3) you can lower without shredding your rope, and 4) you can belay from the summit or the face.

[Dom]

Perhaps 2 bolts on the top, but closer to the lip than their current location. Add 2 short lengths of chain that'll just reach over the lip for lowering. That way 1) you can sit on the top without a being violated by a bolt, 2) you still top out the climb, 3) you can lower without shredding your rope, and 4) you can belay from the summit or the face.

That's exactly what Luc and I did for the new anchor of Joint Venture. To me it's the best of both world because of the reasons you just enumerated.

I don't know many people that lower off Reindeerland though. It would be a shame to get up there and not belay from the top...

[martha]

... and it'll still likely be awkward... but maybe with more options for being awkward.

I thought that Awkward was the payback for getting to top out and enjoy the view! Plus, it is such a classic route to experience. A coming of age of sorts. It just doesn't have the same appeal without the top out and coyote block belay.

And you never know, sometime you might top out and find that Brent has already scrambled up the back and is drinking a beer on top. You'd miss out on that too by belaying from the face.

[Adam]

...sometime you might top out and find that Brent has already [stumbled] up the back [with his guitar] and is drinking a beer on top...

[Greg]

I installed the new anchor on Reindeerland this morning. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible so I just put in a two bolt rap station and removed all the chains. It is now a little closer to the lip and slightly further down. I rapped it and pulled the rope with no issues. The rope now pulls over a smooth edge.

[cory]

I hate you Greg. You stink. You look like a pack mule, and eat rotten eggs for breakfast.

Seriously though, thank you and Chris, Dom, Luc, Marty, Rob and anyone else I've omitted for your work and cash replacing hardware. I appreciate this very much, and will make use of your efforts.

[PaulB]

I will pony up $$ for routes associated to my name if someone replaces them. Joint Venture, Rock Opera etc..
Let me know how many bolts were replaced, who did it and where to give the cash.

I'll do the same as Rob for my two routes if someone gets around to fixing them up. I can clearly remember the day I bolted Yosemite Sam, I was so nervous about screwing it up!

[Dom]

Despite the rain Saturday, Luc, Marty and I rebolted Leviathan, The Juggler, the rest of Sleeping beauty, The Pursuit of hapiness . We also installed a bolted anchor on Wile E. Coyote/Agent Orange to replace the dead tree anchor and a bolted anchor on Hole in my pocket to replace the small pine trees previously used as anchor.

The bolts on Leviathan, Juggler and Pursuit of Hapiness were donated by Steve K. Thanks Steve!

Sleeping beauty is sponsored by Rob L.

Here is what the list looks like now:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Waterfall arête
-Tit for Tat
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera
-The Central Scrutinizer
-Perfect
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Witches
-Talamasca
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird
-Taz
-Bugs Bunny
-Yosemite Sam
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Dom, Luc and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Luc and Dom
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Rob L.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor
-Steal your face
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf

[Dom]

I will pony up $$ for routes associated to my name if someone replaces them. Joint Venture, Rock Opera etc..
Let me know how many bolts were replaced, who did it and where to give the cash.

I'll do the same as Rob for my two routes if someone gets around to fixing them up. I can clearly remember the day I bolted Yosemite Sam, I was so nervous about screwing it up!

That's great news! Talamasca and Yosemite Sam are great routes and would definitely benefit from a rebolt.
We'll get around to fix them eventually!

[theriault]

Rebolter's wish list !A Great Big Thanks to everyone who have already contributed!! And a cry for help to anyone who have clipped a bolt in NB!

Hilti KB3 Bolt 3/8" x 3"
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4302691197

Hilti TE‑C3X 3/8" x 6" SDS Drill Bit
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4302691197

Fixe 3/8" Rappel Hanger
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4302691197

Fixe 3/8" Bolt Hanger
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4302691197

Fixe 10mm Maillon
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4302691197

Fixe 8mm Maillon
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 4302691197

[Dom]

Rock Opera was rebolted by Chris N. and the aid crew this weekend and I rebolted Steal your face at Upper Tier.

The hardware was paid for by Rob L.

Also, Greg K., Chris N. and Zach T. made some donations to the rebolting efforts. Thanks Guys! The money/ hardware donated will be put to great use.

Here is the list now:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Waterfall arête
-Tit for Tat
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by Rob L.
-The Central Scrutinizer
-Perfect
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Witches
-Talamasca
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird (anchor only)
-Taz
-Bugs Bunny
-Yosemite Sam
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet (old bolts + anchor)
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Rob L.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.

[PeterA]

The final bolt on Think Pure Thoughts is due for replacing as well.

-PJ

[Shawn B]

The final bolt on Think Pure Thoughts is due for replacing as well.

-PJ

Does anyone actually do that? I just move left to the Catholic Girls anchor rather than fight the big tree to get on the ledge.

Anchor needed on top of About A Rope. I think I have a few rap hangers I'll donate next time I see you. Sorry don't have any bolts tho....will order some next mec order I put in.

[*Chris*]

Anchor needed on top of About A Rope. I think I have a few rap hangers I'll donate next time I see you. Sorry don't have any bolts tho....will order some next mec order I put in.

Already on this. Hoped to do it Saturday but couldn't get away from our aiding session.

Over the winter I contacted the FA parties for About a Rope and Sweet Potato Pie about adding bolt anchors. They gave me the go-ahead. If you can get there before I do than go for it! Cheers.

[PeterA]

The final bolt on Think Pure Thoughts is due for replacing as well.

-PJ

Does anyone actually do that? I just move left to the Catholic Girls anchor rather than fight the big tree to get on the ledge.

Anchor needed on top of About A Rope. I think I have a few rap hangers I'll donate next time I see you. Sorry don't have any bolts tho....will order some next mec order I put in.

I did it the other day, it was a great finishing sequence. You can't tick the route off unless you go that way, since your skipping the crux by going to the catholic girls anchors.

-PJ

[Fred]

I also finish at Catholic Girls anchor. I wonder though if the top-out was clean with new hardware and maybe a bolt anchor at the lip if people would finish straight up.

Fred

[Dom]

I also finish at Catholic Girls anchor. I wonder though if the top-out was clean with new hardware and maybe a bolt anchor at the lip if people would finish straight up.

Fred

The reason I never did the original finish is :

...most people now finish left at the Catholic girls anchor and avoid the dirty and contrived finish past the bolt

Dirty it's understandable but why is it contrived? Guess I should go up there and check it out.

Some donated hardware could be used to replace the bolt/add the anchor if it is indeed worthy. I have some here that was given to the rebolting effort that could be used. I'd like opinions/consensus from others before to see if it is worth it. So let's all go climb it!!

PJ thanks for mentioning this route.

[theriault]

Rebolted "Perfect" and "The Central Scrutinizer" today

[Dom]

Rebolted "Perfect" and "The Central Scrutinizer" today

Marty forgot to mention that the hardware was donated by Graham W. Thanks Marty and Graham.

[*Chris*]

With the blessing of the FA party I've added a rap anchor to About A Rope. The tree was on it's way downhill lately. Thanks to Marcelle for the hardware donation!

Also, I had intended to put a rap anchor on the ledge shared by Sweet Potato Pie and Puff the Magic Dragon but found nothing but rotten hollow rock. As such, I decided that the little tree will have to do. It still looks pretty healthy... albeit small.

[Dom]

With the blessing of the FA party I've added a rap anchor to About A Rope. The tree was on it's way downhill lately. Thanks to Marcelle for the hardware donation!

Good job! About a rope is the best ''5.7'' in Welsford IMO.

[Dom]

Ze liste:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Honey Pot
-Waterfall arête
-Tit for Tat
-About a rope anchor added by Chris N., hardware donated by Marcelle
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by Rob L.
-The Central Scrutinizer rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Perfect rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Witches
-Talamasca
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird (anchor only)
-Taz
-Bugs Bunny
-Yosemite Sam
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet (old bolts + anchor)
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Rob L.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.
-Think pure thoughts (1 bolt+ anchor)

I still have some hardware left that was donated by the various donators and will be installing them when I have the time. Thanks to everyone who has contributed, the project is progressing!

[*Chris*]

I'm dying to know how somebody really clever would effectively visualize this data. I know there's a great chart hiding in all that... but I'll be dammed if I can figure it how to draw it.

We've got a complex and healthy bolteconomy going on here!

[PeterA]

Tack another one to the list. The old bolts on Honey pot need to be replaced. We replaced 3 of them. There is an intermediate anchor on this route for rapping it with a 60m, it has one new and one old bolt

-PJ