Anchor questions

[JasonM]

I've only been climbing for about a year and I'm just starting to get into outdoor rope climbing. I've got a brand new rope and have been told I need to buy some gear to set up anchors and I need some help deciding what I need to get. I've been told that anchor bolts in Nova Scotia tend to be really far back and therefore you need more length when building your anchor to get it over the lip of the rock. I did a bit of online reading on how to make anchors and it seems I just need to buy a few slings and carabiners, but what lengths should I get and how many?

[mick]

Start by reading John Long's "Climbing Anchors" : http://www.amazon.ca/Climbing-Anchors-2 ... 532&sr=8-2

and then "Mountaineering; Freedom of the Hills": http://www.amazon.ca/Mountaineering-Fre ... 567&sr=1-1

and then go climbing with someone who knows what they are doing (it can be hard to find someone fitting this description sometimes) or hire a guide. Ask lots of questions and practice knots and things at home until they are second nature. You are not ready to take friends out climbing for their first time yet, but after a lot of miles in your harness you could be.

If you are going to extend anchors over an edge, use 7-8mm cordage rather than webbing. Webbing is a pain in the ass to work with and it's not as abrasion resistant. Around here it can be useful to carry up to a 10m length of cord, although most cordalettes are a 20 foot loop. You will probably want to own half a dozen locking carbiners or so. That should get you through most bolted toprope setups around here.

[Dom]

Around here it can be useful to carry up to a 10m length of cord, although most cordalettes are a 20 foot loop. You will probably want to own half a dozen locking carbiners or so. That should get you through most bolted toprope setups around here.

Found that out my first time at Sorrow's end. Was definitely a belay the second from the top kind of a day.
What's the logic behind putting the bolts so far back?

I'm not criticizing, simply wondering.

[JasonM]

Thanks for the advice. Climbing Anchors is now on order from Coles.