Dover June 4

[*Chris*]

Hey NS,

Just a heads up that UNB Rock & Ice is bringing a pretty big crew to Dover on June 4 weekend. Wouldn't mind at all if we were joined by some locals. I can use all the beta I can get. Either way... I'll do my best not to bleed all over the place on ya.

As a token of good faith I'm asking everyone to:

1) leave puppies at home
2) use camp site area
3) support CNS by getting membership

Anything else you'd suggest?

Also... is the Bear wicked good or does it suck? I've heard both opinions.

[Baxterminator]

I've never heard anyone speak poorly of the bear (unless they couldn't do it) its a classic V4.

[patzer]

Heh, I've never done it but I still think it's a great problem (even with the blocks that got washed in a few years ago). Ignore the naysayers! I do think it's pretty hard for the grade though.

[Dom]

The Bear is a fun problem for sure. The wave is also awesome.

Chris I suggest you bring a small rack and a small rope and 2 harnesses. Right at the camping are 3-4 35ft routes.There is one or two bolted anchor on top so you can set up top-ropes. Then people can top-rope these at night. It's litterally 10 feet away from the fire ring so makes for a nice evening session. I forgot the difficulty of these lines but I remember there was at least one 5.7... The other cracks are a little harder I think.
Glowsticks in the crack on every pro makes it look even nicer. Wish I had a picture to show ya what we had set up last year hehe. It looked like a granite X-Mas tree.

Anyways, You're there for the bouldering which is amazing, just a thought about the rope climbs. Have fun!

[Nihoa]

who said the bear sucked? you are hanging around the wrong people norfolk! also. it takes a welsford rat to bring a trad rack to dover

[jeremy benjamin]

I have heard people who think the Bear is soft for the grade and people who think it is hard for the grade (just like any problem that has ever been given a grade). But I have ever heard of anyone who thought the Bear sucked. It is an awesome line, and is super fun.

[*Chris*]

boys I'll give it a send and figure it out for myself. Mark, if I told you were I heard it it would just set you off. Not important!

[Nihoa]

hahah, i know holly says the bear blows but she also said the bakery in kamou is no good so there you go.

[Holly Reid]

hahaha, it was definitely me! I tell everyone I hate it. However, I did say everyone else seems to like it, it is a "classic", and that it was just my personal opinion to avoid it, hehe. At least I'm pretty sure I did. Anyway, I'd say hard for it's grade for sure but I also haven't been on it in probably three years. And Mark, I never said the Kamou bakery is no good, just that it didn't seem like anything special, haha.

[seanT]

Holly you must have been huffing to much plastic and chalk dust from the pit at UNB. Bear is mega classic. Crimpy powerful start...cool foot beta ..different for short or tall people...pinches... big throw to huge jug and spicey top out with a killer view and exposure right on the prow.... yeahhh i love it. As far as the grade goes...the first person to climb it started with thier hands fairly high up and did the top moves...they thought it was V4 from there... The next day I did the FA from the crimps down low and thought it was more like V6 from the crimps...probably soft V6....mind you I think Behave is more like V5 than V7 so really its all a load of hooey any how.
The more important issue here is the Bakery in Kamou...."nothing special"? for real......the sundried tomato loaf...mmmmmmmmmmmm and the chocolate croissants....better than any i have had in France!!!!! and the staff...... MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
WORD SeanT
ps dont trust the bolts on top of the wall at the campsite 10yrs old...corroded like mad and loose.

[ben smith]

the bear is soft with weirdo nerd kneebar beta, I've seen average v2ish climbers cruise it that way.
its v4 benchmark with usual chuck beta.

either way total classic but sharp.

[jeremy benjamin]

Also... is the Bear wicked good or does it suck? I've heard both opinions.

So? Is the Bear wicked good or does it suck? How did the NB trip to Dover go?

[Scooter]

I've seen v10 climbers fall off John Doe

[*Chris*]

So? Is the Bear wicked good or does it suck? How did the NB trip to Dover go?

The NB Dover trip was pretty good. We had a crew just shy of 45 on the island and a lot of classics got sent. The bear saw many laps and claimed some blood. I thought it was a nice problem!



Some more pics here: