Rope Renaissance

[patzer]

It seems there is a renewal of rope climbers round these parts building lately. When I first started climbing it was all bouldering all the time, except for this group of Stoners that seemed to really like... being old or something. Now the Stoners seem to have gone, and there is all this talk of building trad racks and leading First Face sport routes. Quite the change! Maybe it's just the cycle of climbing around here.

I wonder how much of this is due to the G-Spot development... I found this old post really interesting, where a number of people called out for exactly that - a crag of moderate sport lines: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1850
(My apologies to anyone who would have preferred that this stay buried and forgotten).

I'll just add that a number of people mention that there is a lot of potential still at Sandy Cove. I expect that's probably still the case today - maybe exploring this would be a good initiative for CNS? I will volunteer my own time and gas to help out with any new development here.

I really like challenges. Maybe that's why I like bouldering so much, it's pretty super hard, and I wasn't much good at it. But I've really taken to this rope stuff too lately, and being in Red Rocks recently was pretty inspiring! So I want to know: what are the best hard sport lines around NS?

I have a partial list of things to investigate this summer (any additional help finding Neverland appreciated!). Anything else I should add? This list is actually even heavier on the 12s than I expected... surely there are more 11s out there somewhere?!

Mea Culpa 12a (First Face)
Slave to Fashion 11c
Ludicrous Anachronisms 11b
Gargoyle 12a (Main Face)
Lost Boys 12c (Neverland)
Grease Monkey 12b (Trout Cove)
Transformer 12c (Sorrows)
Chameleon 13+?


Thanks!

Jason

[Scooter]

Majister Ludi (11c) at Main Face is really good. Maybe this is because it was my first NS 11? I dunno - I think it rocks.

[betaburgler]

You really wore those pants in Red Rocks? Represent!

[patzer]

I did indeed wear the pants.

Thanks, I've never heard of Majister Ludi, but I'll definitely add it to the list.

Tried Transformer on the weekend, and boy does that one ever get thin! Ouch.

[seanT]

For sure you would want to hop on Desperado at Columbus wall it goes at 12c and is mega awsome. To the left of it is the "flying squirrel" project ... a sick arete also in the 12 range as of yet no FA on it. Happy to hear your on Transformer...the arete to the right of it "For the Moment" has only seen 1 ascent and is in the 13 range doing that route would put you in a elite group thats for sure.
Magistar lundi is also very cool....quite a unique line for Nova Scotia.
Sean

[Seb]

You should definitely get on the 11 at Sorrow's that's to the right of All the Rage. Super cool sequence above the ledge. I'll work on the 11 to the left with you. I still can't figure out the top. Maybe it will go down this year. Sins and Transgressions at First Face is the best sport line I've gotten on out here. It would be good for you. The middle is a little height dependant. But if you really want to lead in NS you'll need a rack. This will open up a lot more climbing. There's definitely some quality trad routes around. Also, there's some good mixed routes too. I can't wait to get on Andisimo and Alpamayo at Columbus for example. I'm just waiting for it to get a little warmer.

[patzer]

Cool. I've yet to try Sins and Transgressions. Andisimo is super fun though! I can probably handle that kind of mixed route... I think there's only 1 or 2 pieces and about 6 bolts.

I tried Knockdown Street (on the right) last year but it's pretty super thin as well. I think Big Foot Motel is the 11 on the left at Sorrows? I prefer the bigger holds!

[chameleon]

It’s pretty cool to see people getting into roped climbing again. And I would agree that the G-Spot is probably helping people along that path, with such accessible grades and location.

It’s a natural progression for gym climbers and boulderers to move into sport climbing. But as you will find out, we have a lot more trad and mixed routes to climb here in Nova Scotia. Hopefully, some of you will take on that challenge too. It’s a slightly different game, but it all feels like climbing to me.

To help you on your quest I’ve uploaded a couple of tick lists here: http://www.echorockguides.ca

Enjoy!
Sean

PS. some of my favourite sport routes are: Flake’n on the Tard, All the Rage, Creme de la Crimp, Slave to Fashion, Mea Culpa, and Lost Boys.

[patzer]

Hey, that's really useful! Thanks!

But rest assured I'm personally a bit of rebel (well ok, not really ) here - most of the people in this new rope movement are indeed gearing up for the trad. And they're working on me... I confess, there are some mighty trad lines I'd love to do this summer. Pyramid would be at the top of the list! What a great climb.

[pulldown]

Nice ticklist but i didn't see Halifornication 11c - Columbus Wall on the sport list. I know technically it's a mixed route so it's on the trad list but that might be a bit misleading for aspiring crankers. The climb is totally easy up to the first bolt and after the last one it eases up a lot and can be run out to the anchors, so really it's a sport line with some gear for comfort.

I wonder how many "mixed gear" routes are in NS.

Todd

[stoneseeker]

Ahh yes,

The natural progression... from pulling hard in your youth, to getting old and resorting to placing gear on long sustained easy trad routes!

[chameleon]

The Cove (5.12a, Main Face) is another "mixed climb" that is mostly a sport climb.
If you're interested in the number of mixed routes Todd, just count the number of "M's" on the trad/mixed list.
But I'm afraid you'll have to extend a little bit of effort to do that!
Sheesh, do i have to climb them for you too?