New coat

[climberwannabe]

Hey I am looking at buying a gore-tex coat in the next few months, does anyone have any comments about the company Mountain Hardware?

[Fred]

whatever you do... I recommend XCR gore-tex

[martha]

oh oh oh!! a thread about gear!! wooooot!!!

XRC is the shizzle. light weight, breathable and fully waterproof. Yippee!!

The most advanced waterproof breathable technology in 20 years. Gore-Tex XCR - "extended comfort range" as used in high aerobic activities, represents a new class of waterproof breathable technology. Through new membranes and improved lamination techniques, Gore-Tex XCR has 25% less resistance to moisture vapor transmission than standard Gore-Tex. This translates to up to 500grams or 17oz more moisture transmitted out of your clothing system in an 8-hour period of high aerobic activity. Keeping you dryer and more comfortable.
40+ PSI
2L - Ret <=45-40
3L - Ret <=60-50
0 CFM, 100% windproof

You will pay a fortune for it. but it is worth it. The entire North Face 'Summit Series' collection are made with XCR. As are similar collections with each of the other major companies, Marmot, Patagonia, Mountain Hardware etc.

Personally, I think Mountain Hardware is awesome. great quality, style and design. Get something you really like as you'll have it for years to come.


Cara

[Mountain_Marc]

Patagonia Stretch Element jkt.

That thing is the shiznit. Stretchable, breathable, very lightweight and totally waterproof!

Greatest jacket i've ever owned.

On sale on the Patagonia website.

[climberwannabe]

wow, I love the patagonia styling, I am a bit of a sucker for gore-tex though. Once I get something in my head... Hey what are the mec goretex jackets like? They seem ok, but are a bit cheaper than most XCR stuff, so are they of lesser quality?

[martha]

Hey what are the mec goretex jackets like? They seem ok, but are a bit cheaper than most XCR stuff, so are they of lesser quality?

MEC stuff is great quality. Perhaps not as good as NorthFace or Mountain Hardware etc, but for the price you pay, it is exceptional. The Gortex they use on some of their jackets is not XCR. They are more similar to the regular North Face or Marmot etc. jackets in terms of fabric.

[dcentral]

Some of their jackets do use XCR.

If something did go wrong with the jacket. MEC is pretty close by to return the jacket. Wouldn't have to send it off anywhere.

[Mountain_Marc]

wow, I love the patagonia styling, I am a bit of a sucker for gore-tex though. Once I get something in my head... Hey what are the mec goretex jackets like? They seem ok, but are a bit cheaper than most XCR stuff, so are they of lesser quality?

I hear ya on the Gore-Tex. I was a bit leery about getting this jacket because it wasn't Gore-Tex. I ended up buying it and don't regret it at all. In my experience, the H2NO fabric is more breathable and just as waterproof than G-tex.

Just my .02$. Any jacket you get will do the trick.

[martha]

Some of their jackets do use XCR.

If something did go wrong with the jacket. MEC is pretty close by to return the jacket. Wouldn't have to send it off anywhere.

North Face also has a lifetime warrenty. (mec does too i think) I've seen people have stitching come out of a 4 year old jacket, they send it back and get a brand new one in current color and styling! That is saaweet.

[excited newbie]

I just bought a North Face summit series jacket. I got it new for forty bucks cause it came staight from china ( i just added that to make ya'll jealous). It works amazing, i highly recomend it.

[mike]

Hmmm. I agree with Mark Twight in his book 'Extreme Alpinism'.

Gore-tex is over rated cause it doesn't do any one thing well- cept maybe windproofness.

I'd go for a solf shell with a ultra light weight rain jacket- something like those KWays of years gone by.

Once Goretex is a little dirty it doesn't work so well.

I've got a Noth Face Kitchatna- Gore Tex XCR. The zipper's broke but am waiting to get my new shnizzle to send it back to them for a new one. Hopefully I can get 'em to send me some of their new school stuff- mainly a weather system that works instead of a fancy coat.

Mike

[mathieu]

I second Mike, Gore Tex is overrated.

I have an old MEC GoreTex jacket and I dragged it along at the crag or when I went hiking and thinking it was gonna rain. Most of the time when it rains, you seek shelter.

I got a Ferari Jacket (that's what I call the MEC line of soft shell), and carry an ultra weight rain jacket (Marmot Precipice or something like that). For the price I paid for both of them, I still have 300 to 400$ left over than if I would of gotten an North F##k Face or a Mountain Pricywear or a Pataguci. And that's money I can spend on road trips .

[dcentral]

What temperatures can you wear those jackets in, what else do you layer them with underneath?

Do they dry fast?

[Fred]

Pataguci.

oh man.... you crack me up.

Mot a ta mere!

[mathieu]

What temperatures can you wear those jackets in, what else do you layer them with underneath?

Do they dry fast?

The soft shell jacket I wear while ice climbing and bring a down jacket to wear at the belays or while sitting around. They block the wind relatively well (I use it when I work in the Prairies where wind is ever present). Íf its gonna be really windy then I may bring the old goretex or if I haven't planned for that i'll usually have my rain jacket at the bottom of my pack since its so light. My layer's include a light morino wool first layer (worth every penny), a thick wool sweater and my soft shell. I may bring a light fleece if temperatures are going to be under -10C.

Softshell dries really quickly if you keep moving. We climbed a 6 pitch ice climb where every pitch was dripping wet and I never felt wet. On the other hand, the next day we climbed a dripping ice climb while we were being rained on and I wore my goretex and it was as useless as an ashtray on a motor bike (still my fav saying). Granted my goretex is old but they just don't cut it when flowers gets really wet.

[mike]

I wear a thermal undershirt- one of those black shiny jobs.
a thin fleece.
I carry a polar guard jacket- I call 'em raver coats cause they look cool.
then the soft shell.
I keep a down jacket with me and a ultra light rain coat.

This system enables carrying a lighter weight sleeping bag, more access to the gear loops on yer harness and provides a cheaper, more versatile clothing system.

This is what I wore in one of the coldest places I have ever been. -50C at the coldest point. You gotta keep moving 'till it's time to get the down out though.

[martha]

What temperatures can you wear those jackets in, what else do you layer them with underneath?

Do they dry fast?

The soft shell jacket I wear while ice climbing and bring a down jacket to wear at the belays or while sitting around. They block the wind relatively well (I use it when I work in the Prairies where wind is ever present). Íf its gonna be really windy then I may bring the old goretex or if I haven't planned for that i'll usually have my rain jacket at the bottom of my pack since its so light. My layer's include a light morino wool first layer (worth every penny), a thick wool sweater and my soft shell. I may bring a light fleece if temperatures are going to be under -10C.

Softshell dries really quickly if you keep moving. We climbed a 6 pitch ice climb where every pitch was dripping wet and I never felt wet. On the other hand, the next day we climbed a dripping ice climb while we were being rained on and I wore my goretex and it was as useless as an ashtray on a motor bike (still my fav saying). Granted my goretex is old but they just don't cut it when flowers gets really wet.

Mat, You have no been made an honorary member of the gear whore society. congrats man. I knew you had it in you.

[DanR]

Matt's always kinda been a gear whore, just undercover All those fancy hexes, and tri-cams. And now, technical garments. But I do agree with the advantages of soft-shells. I even ditched my gore-tex this past winter in multi day skiing trips in storms and pretty cold weather. Much lighter, but need the down for rests. That got me conviced that soft-shell is the way to go!

[martha]

I'm on board with that too. My soft shell kicks ass. I didn't actually take my goretex with me anywhere this winter. I had my softshell and down.

If it were REALLY cold and REALLY windy I would also take my gortex to put over the softshell and down. I climbed in -20 or colder this winter and I was fine without the Gore, so it would have to be pretty darn cold to bring it.

[Fred]

Mat does seem to be a freequent replier to these threads. hehe

[mathieu]

Matt's always kinda been a gear whore, just undercover All those fancy hexes, and tri-cams. And now, technical garments.

Dan, you haven't seen my fancy cam rack, I even got a #3 BD now and 2 forged friends thanks to Cara.

I think my gear whoriness is directly related to the amount of free time I have on my hands while on the road.