Trout Cove climbing trip.

[stoneseeker]

Hey guys,

Lidi and I are gonna head out Monday and Tuesday to try out the sport climbing at Trout Cove, and the basalt bouldering in the area too.
Anything we should know?

-Ticks around this time of year??
-Access issues?
-Best places to camp? (the guide has a few suggestions, just wondering if anyone has personal experience with camping there)
-The bolts and anchors still there/safe?

Any warnings and suggestions before we head out tomorrow are appreciated!

[Fred]

1. Ticks this time of year? More than likely and if they have started already they are brutal in the tall grass around the Trout Cove Cliff. I've never seen anything like it.
2. No access issues that I know of.
3. Pretty sure you can camp on the beach at "Planet of the Apes Bouldering" Sandy Cove beach. Locals camp there and have fires and we've asked them and they said no problem.
4. Bolts are still good IMO but always use your own judgement.

Have fun! It's a fun little spot. Don't forget to check out Planet of the Apes.

[mick]

Hey Luke,

The tree shown in the guidebook at the top of routes 8,9, and 10 (John's Jaunt, You Snooze You Lose, and Calling Card) is dead and gone. Unless someone put new bolts in at the top there will be nothing to anchor to within about 10 meters of the lip.

mick

[stoneseeker]

So are the ticks so bad you wouldn't recommend going?? I mean, when do you guys typically climb here? We can boulder on the beaches instead if it is considered stupid to climb there this time of year. Although I imagine it would be much worse in June...

yuck, ticks scare me.

Mick, if CNS can give me a drill and the hardware before noon tomorrow, I'll take the opportunity to bolt TR chains or rings above those climbs where the tree used to be.

[mick]

Thanks for the offer Luke but the drill is in use already this weekend. Let me know if you delay your trip and we'll see if we can get you the hardware for next time.

[Fred]

I'm from NB where we don't have ticks (until recently) so I was totaly sketched out by the ticks at Trout Cove. My wife however, who grew up in Digby, found it to be quite normal. I won't climb there until late summer or the fall. hehe Not trying to deter you from going just saying I've never seen ticks like that.

[stoneseeker]

Just got back from two days camping out there...
Only saw 3 ticks on us, so not too bad!

Mick, someone put two bolts in just below the old tree above "You Snooze You Lose", and they looked pretty new, so its good. It would be really nice if someone would bolt "Jauns Jaunt" (.11a) to the left so it could be lead though. Also, although not necessary, it would be sorta useful to add rings to these top rope stations. The rest of the bolts on the other lines looked ok, although Greasy Monkey may have some questionable bolts.

We also checked out Planet of the Apes, which was pretty cool. Like a big basalt playground, but it was tough to find difficult obvious lines without creating eliminates.

All in all very worth the trip! We even tried out the world famous Digby Scallops, we were not dissapointed.

[martha]

Regardless of all the jokes.. Digby 'ain't' all bad. hehe.

[Fred]

Yes it is.

[crsaulnier]

It was Nette who added those anchor bolts last Summer.