So who has done this route in the last 2 years? I've been on it twice this season. (seconded the first time and led it yesterday). Anyways it's an awesome route but you never hear anyone talking about it. I think this route is a classic. It's pretty much 3 routes in 60 feet. Few things to consider if you are heading down there.
-This route is accessed by rappelling.
-Rap down with your climbing shoes. That way you won't have to tie boots to your harness.
- As you rap down clip a quickdraw in the 2nd bolt. You'll be happy you did especially if you're not 6' tall.
-Also on the rappel, stick clip the first bolt. The first few moves are hard and insecure. (no holds-SLAB)
-Bring a 0.3 for the 2nd piece. When you clip the 2nd bolt, you can back clean that 0.3. Would be a weird fall trying to clip the 2nd bolt without having a piece in after the first bolt
- The feet of the overhang might be a little wet, but don't worry about it. That move is in the arms anyways
Also the sun hits it early in the morning so if you're camping up at exfoliated. Warm up on Simpson and head down to Les petits phoques. It'll be in the sun!