In the market for a new small cam

[Dom]

Hello yall!

I'm actively looking for a new smaller piece on my trad rack. Right now my smallest cam is a 0 C3 (green). I'm debating wether to buy a 00 purple c3, a 0 master cam or tcu (also purple) or a no.3 zero.

-C3 - 6kn - 9-13.7mm - 67$ @mec
-Master cam/TCu -5kn- 10-15mm- tcu is 44$ @ La cordée, master cam is 57$.
-WC Zeros 6kn - 8.5-12.2mm - a whopping 77$ @ mec

So, I'm leaning towards the C3 because it has a strength resistance force of 6kn vs 5 for the metolius. It's also cheaper than the Zeros.

I do own 2 BD c3's. The green and gold one. I don't mind the green one but don't really like the gold one. I always prefer 4 lobes which is why I'm also considering the Master cam.

So please disregard my unorganized analysis, and tell me what you guys prefer for smaller cams in that range. Thanks!

[PeterA]

I like mastercams, they've always worked well for me. That's just a personal opinion, and I haven't really used c3's that much so I can't compare.

-PJ

[granite_grrl]

I really like Metolious for small cams. I've used TCUs for years, put picked up a #1 master cam a couple of seasons ago which has performed really well.

I like having both the Master cam and the TCU on my rack, so which would I'd suggest would be your preference.

[*Chris*]

Dom, I own both the purple TCU and the mastercam. I've used the small c3s. I give the win to the Mastercam mostly on ergonomics, but also flexibility of the stem.

I wouldn't put too much stock in 6kn vs. 5kn. They are both relatively small pieces and the quality of placement may depend on contact with individual crystals. Any cam this small I'm usually thinking about clipping with a screamer if it's my only gear. That said, I use these small jobs mostly for aid and they don't get placed a whole lot free climbing. (I suppose that's reflective of the routes I choose).

If you want to try before you buy I'd gladly lend them both to you for a few hours if you find me in Welsford. I'll be there Sunday.

[mick]

My vote is for the mastercam. I've got #00 through #3 and I have virtually no complaints about them. I have only used the small BD tcus once or twice, but I found the stem got in the way as it is at least as wide as the retracted lobes on the smaller sizes. Trigger pull was really stiff too in the BDs and the lobes appear to be made of harder metal than the mastercams, making them less forgiving and more likely to slide a bit in imperfect placements.

I think the mastercams are worth the price, but obviously it comes down to personal preference. I'll second Chris's remark that 5kn vs 6kn should hardly weigh into your decision; with some rope out and a reasonably soft catch you probably won't break either of these pieces if they are placed properly.

[Dom]

Well Customer review has spoken. I also own a master cam. Size 1 I think (the blue one) and I absolutely love it. I find that I can place it on almost every route in Cochrane Lane.

So I think I'm going to order a master cam. I checked the specs on my green c3 and it just seems logical to go with the grey master cam (00), not the purple for the next size down. It's also rated at 5kn.

Chris thanks for your offer. I too should be in Welsford this weekend but might be in Sunnyside on Sunday. If not I'll see you around in Cl, prob. at Joes/L-shape where it's the most sheltered hehe!

Thanks yall!

[GKelly]

Dom,

I have the purple and gray metolius cams. I'm not sure what numbers they are but I've been really happy with them. My only complaint is that the studs on the end of the wires sometimes get in the way. As far as them being only 5kn, I often find I can place them together and equalize them wich seems pretty bomber. I would definatly recommend them.

Greg

[granite_grrl]

Dom,

I have the purple and gray metolius cams. I'm not sure what numbers they are but I've been really happy with them. My only complaint is that the studs on the end of the wires sometimes get in the way. As far as them being only 5kn, I often find I can place them together and equalize them wich seems pretty bomber. I would definatly recommend them.

Greg

I had a full set of older TCUs, then Nathan broke the cam stops off my #0 while out aiding and was forced to buy me a new one.

The ultralights have much smaller studs at the end of the wires and don't get in the way the same way as the old ones did.

[Matt Peck]

Is no-one going to come into the ring for the zero? I love these cams. Yeah, they are kind of expensive, but light and super useful. I find they place in spots that other cams wont, and work beautifully in old pin scars. the flexible head is amazing, but not so flexible as to be floppy. Drawing the trigger is easier than the C3's, which is good in a pump. In short, they're awesome.

[theriault]

Has anyone ever played ( on a climb and not in a store lol ) or have an opinion about the "Ball Nuts" from Camp?

[*Chris*]

Has anyone ever played ( on a climb and not in a store lol ) or have an opinion about the "Ball Nuts" from Camp?

I've aided on them. Does that count? Used a few on Odin in place of small pitons and they felt pretty friggin bomber to me. I was scared like a little girl so I bounce tested them like crazy. They can be a tick to clean though. Make sure your second doesn't give them the upward yank like they would a regular nut... that would have to potential to torque the small retractable wire pretty badly.

[Matt Peck]

Ive had less than stellar luck with them. Think maybe I just needed some practice. Not very intuitive.

[Shawn B]

Has anyone ever played ( on a climb and not in a store lol ) or have an opinion about the "Ball Nuts" from Camp?

They'll go where nothing else fits for sure. If you fall on them it will prob be welded...but you'll be more than happy to have donated that piece to the climbing gods since otherwise you'd have flown a lot further. For the most part unless you are climbing way hard trad routes you won't need them around here. Other gear will fit. Fun to have if you love gear (and who doesn't) but unless you have a specific project in mind will sit mostly unused.

As far as small cams go...metolius the best imo. Master cams for blue, yellow, orange and red are superior over tcu's (although sometimes a blue tcu will fit better than a blue master cam...so call it a 75/25 split in favour of the master cam). Purple similar to blue but probably a 50/50 split. 00 is probably 25/75 in favour of the tcu. I only have a tcu in that size but have played with a master cam. Tcu is a bit stiffer for wiggling into the small crack and is a bit thinner. There is one particular placement I use on pine tree eliminate in conway that a purple tcu fits perfect but the master cam doesn't work well. So ideally one of each in the 0 and 00 size (says this wuss who rarely leaves the ground without doubles). I do rarely use or carry the 00 in Welsford.

Sorry Matt...no love for the zeros here. And the c3's are too stiff vertically and are prone to walking. Better in horizontal placements. Too bad aliens aren't made in a quality controlled environment...they were my fav's until I started to question their quality. I sold them when I answered no to the question "would I build an anchor solely out of aliens?'.

[Greg]

Has anyone ever played ( on a climb and not in a store lol ) or have an opinion about the "Ball Nuts" from Camp?

Marty - I have three of them and I like them a lot. They will fit in strange places where cams and nuts will not. I actually find them very easy to place and remove. You are welcome to try them sometime if you like.

[Charley]

Bought one last summer to play around with and found them very sensitive to placement, but like Greg said, they can often go where a cam and nut won't. I trust them a bit more now, so it's probably just an experience thing with knowing exactly how to nestle them in.