Climbing Training

[Zach Taylor]

Hey, What does everyone do for climbing specific training? I'm interested in hearing new/different ideas to add to my training.

Thanks

[Brian!]

I always found that the best way to work your climbing muscles is to climb more. I'm hesitant to do pull ups and a like, because it puts strain on my fingers which I would rather abuse on the climbing wall. That's my process, but I am pretty terrible climber...

However, I do exercises that work my non-climbing muscles to avoid joint imbalances such as exercising the tops of my forearms to avoid wrist pain.

[Murph]

I know some people will likely disagree, however I find slacklining helpful for climbing. Slacklining all about being aware of your center of gravity and is very applicable towards climbing. If you can fine tune your COG, it will make climbing easier and in turn, you can climb harder.

[theriault]

Climb Ice.... it helps to grow Balls!

[Dom]

Climbing is such a complex discipline. I also find the best way to train is to try and get out as much as much as possible. That way you develop specific muscles/tendons, you develop technique and also develop the mental aspect of climbing. I find this last aspect might be the most important. (depending on the route)
No sense in doing pull-ups everyday if every time you are 20' feet off the deck you over grip like mad.

So I would say the best thing you could do to train your mental is go to a sport climb with a clean fall and take repeated lead falls. If you're really afraid of taking them, start by taking the fall with the bolt at your shoulders, then at your waist, then at your feet. etc.

I realize you were probably talking more about muscle training but don't underestimate the mental training...unless you top rope.
My opinion.

Some call the mental aspect: balls!

Climb Ice.... it helps to grow Balls!

hehe

As for muscle training, every 2 weeks or so when I do use my training board, I put my harness with 4 nalgenes tied to it to add weight before I do pull-ups, hangs, etc.
Core training is also very good...

Technique comes with mileage on the rock.

Rock season is coming very soon with all this awesome mild weather and rain!!

[Brian!]

Climb Ice.... it helps to grow Balls!

I wish I could give a gold sticker for that response.

[Zach Taylor]

Thanks everyone!

Rock season is coming very soon with all this awesome mild weather and rain!!

I'm hoping in the next few weeks... Hopefully enough snow has melted now that there won't be too much water running on warmer days

[Dom]

I'm hoping in the next few weeks... Hopefully enough snow has melted now that there won't be too much water running on warmer days

Hey Zach, although Hampton is probably the worst established place to climb in NB in terms of rock quality, I'm 95% sure its good to go now. The cliffs are kind of detached from the hill, and the sun bakes them all day.

Over there, Lunchbox is a good route! Physical graffiti is also not bad...IMO.

Last year people made rock updates to say which crag or which area of a crag were good to go in early Spring. Kind of like ice conditions except for rock hehe. This should be repeated this year.

[Zach Taylor]

Hey Zach, although Hampton is probably the worst established place to climb in NB in terms of rock quality, I'm 95% sure its good to go now. The cliffs are kind of detached from the hill, and the sun bakes them all day.

I like the sound of that, I'm pretty sure there's some sunny days coming up too.. I wouldn't be too worried about rock quality this time of year, just as long as I'm climbing

[*Chris*]

Zach,

One thing you should be aware of on the first warm & sunny days of the spring is rockfall and icefall. I'm not familiar with Hampton but I'd be cautious of anywhere with a talus field. Just remember to bring a helmet. Have fun.

... as for the original question my training regime consists of a winter on the couch eating chips and drinking beer. Watch as many Chris Sharma / David Graham movies as you can. Convince yourself that they have no real skillz and that power makes up for shoddy footwork. Be sure to order new gear every once in a while. You'll be all set for spring!

[Outdoorsmack]

Any talk about any leagues, groups, individuals or gyms putting on any courses this spring? (i.e. top rope, lead, etc....) Sort of your basics for newbies into the sport or those who don't get out often enough to keep their skills at the top of their game.

[Greg]

Climbing itself should be a focus of your training but having a good overall fitness base will help you a great deal. Cardiovascular endurance, muscular strength, muscular endurance and flexibility are all very important and you should train all these parameters. Running, biking, hiking, swimming are great for cardio. For strength and endurance good old fashion pushups, crunches, pull-ups, chin-ups and any other exercise where you can use your own body weight for resistance and crank them out almost anywhere happen to be. Pilates is great training as well. Until not too long ago I scoffed at yoga. I thought it was a waste of time – boy was I wrong. Yoga will work your core like nobody’s business and it resembles the movement patterns of climbing a route more than say a typical strength workout would. Two other factors to consider in any program are nutrition and rest. If you are not getting the proper amounts of each of these your climbing will likely not improve or improve as much.

[*Chris*]

blah blah blah blah.... Two other factors to consider in any program are nutrition and rest.

I thought I'd already covered this point Greg.

... my training regime consists of a winter on the couch eating chips and drinking beer.

[Joe]

Cheapest hangboard in the world - a 2x4 nailed over a doorframe (like inside a closet). 10 pullups & 30 sec hang x 3, progressing to 4. Do 3/4 times a week for the rest of your life. Combine with hanging knee raises and pushups.

[Greg]

blah blah blah blah.... Two other factors to consider in any program are nutrition and rest.

I thought I'd already covered this point Greg.

... my training regime consists of a winter on the couch eating chips and drinking beer.

You are way too hard core for me dude

[Murph]

Chris, sounds like you and I have the same personal trainer!