Screw Danger

[theriault]

A good read about Ice Screws, make's ya think!
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01 ... crews.html

[Dom]

This has also happened in rock climbing. Not on screws obviously but on a locking biner with the rope threaded through it. The person took a lead fall and the rope ''core shot'' as it slid rapidly alongside the locking part of the biner (i.e. the red part in the picture). Dunno if people understand, I'm more of a visual person myself.

So it's probably better to climb on non-locking biners if you're climbing above your gear (i.e. lead climbing, not top roping). All Qd for sale are on non-locking biners but I've noticed a few times where people have used a locking biner right before a crux to ironically make it safer.
Just a heads up.

[chossmonkey]

Yikes!!

I always make sure the knob is folded up so it won't get broken off. Cutting the rope never even crossed my mind..





As to the locker sheathing the rope, wouldn't the biner need to be cross loaded?

When cross loaded many normal biners could do the same thing depending how the gate is constructed.

[Dom]

As to the locker sheathing the rope, wouldn't the biner need to be cross loaded?

When cross loaded many normal biners could do the same thing depending how the gate is constructed.

Yes, definitely cross loaded.

[gwa]

Dom,

I know exactly what you're saying - it happened to me once at the gym. I was leading past the locking anchor biner and took a fall from a roof. The rope slid across the screw gate and it cut the sheath exposing the coiled white core. Good times!

[*Chris*]

Dom,

I know exactly what you're saying - it happened to me once at the gym. I was leading past the locking anchor biner and took a fall from a roof. The rope slid across the screw gate and it cut the sheath exposing the coiled white core. Good times!

Eff.

Clipping lead pro such that the spine is on the side of your intended travel will reduce the likely hood of this happening. A good habit to be in anyway.