Dry-tooling near Hali?

[Matt Peck]

Hey folks. 09 ice will soon be upon us, and Im looking for some spots to train. Anyone know of some good spots to do some drytooling? Overhanging slightly chossy faces are fine, Im not looking to chew on anyone's rock routes. I heard tell of some coastal aid climbing areas last winter near the HRM, that might be an option. Any suggestions? Partners also welcome.
Thanks

[beyond_gravity]

There are a few lines at the Bedford Quarry you can dry tool. I know last year access there was questionable; a few parties were asked to leave.

I've heard mixed things about dry tooling the established sport routes at the Eagle's nest. One train of thought is that it's an established rock climbing area and drytooling will damage the rock. On the other hand I don't know why anyone would want to climb there given all the broken glass and smashed TV's.

Or you could do what I did and move to the rockies. I've climbed ice every weekend since early October!

[chameleon]

The LOC makes for a good circuit.

[stoneseeker]

thats it Cassidy!
I'm stealing all your nuts.

[Matt Peck]

Well, Moving west isn't really an option, and as crappy as eagles nest is trash wise, I can't see the locals really taking a shine to me clawing my way up the routes there. Anyone got any info regarding the baxters harbor potential? (I think that's the name...)

[chossmonkey]

I find that crampons scratch up the rock the most. I normally drytool practice in rock shoes. That said, the rock routes we drytool are on an abandoned train bridge.

[HDW]

Hey, I'm new to the area and looking forward to climbing some eastcoast ice this winter. Any more developments on a mixed crag near Halifax? Also, where can I get my sweaty hands on the "ice guide"? Does such a thing exist?

Nova Scotia has places like this right?



Matt

[Danger]

Hey Peck,
We were in to Baxters during the Autumny months, a lot of the choss which seems to be held together in the winter by ice, was pretty easy to rip off on top of ourselves. Not quite ideal... if you find a location I'm more then excited too head out. Perhaps we can look at some of the choss to the right the developed Eagles Nest climbing?

If I'm not mistaken, I'm pretty sure that pic is from a road side cut out near Cole Harbour? Cole Harbour being the home of NS alpine ice. The area hasn't really seen much development, not quite the high quality us Maritimers are used too.

There is a Ice guide book well in the works, rumor has it advanced copies can be purchased for "a belay and a few beer"

R

[peter]

You will have trouble getting gear in, and having it stay in, on the Fundy coast.

There is lots of dry tooling on top rope, including at Baxter's.

[Matt Peck]

Havent been out to baxters or the mystical Cole HBR cliff yet. Mostly been playing around in the Eagles Nest, though drytooling with a soloist is less than Ideal. I've been tromping around the Cobequids on my days off and may have a lead on a spot or two for ice this winter, stay tuned for details.
Roger; Im headed down to North Conway for the week, but will look you up when I get back. I'd love to get out and do some ice if it's in/drytool if it's not.
Gotta get my belaying/beer in for the guidebook.
Matthew