Cochrane Lane Cleaning - 2010

[STeveA]

I dunno if they've allready been done, but I'll front the hardwear for rebolting the anchors for flight (or ride, whatever) of the Valkeries. Im probably not going to be able to get up there for the cleaning weekend, but if someone wouldn't mind, I'll get the hardwear to them X2 for their effort. (not sure who P. Lloyd is, or even if he's still alive, but if someone can give me deets I'll see if he minds. Otherwise, a couple of shots of single malt on the ground and community ok should do).

If you want to contact Pete his facebook is http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/pro ... =640041083

I am sure he will have no problem with you replacing the bolts on Flight of the Valkeries. BTW I placed them in the first place, and I have no problem with them being replaced.

[TG33]

Why doesn't the route go straight up to the top? I never really checked when I was doing it... Is the rock crap?

not sure of rock quality but IIRC the difficulty decreases dramatically the higher you go.

The route does go straight up. Needs to be cleaned and a tree branch probably is in the way especially if you fall up high. I think the best way is to traverse to the roof on Trouble with Lichen the other finish is lame in comparison. Honestly I think a double ring anchor on the top of Trouble with Lichen would suffice since Farewell can be accessed by clipping the last bolt with one rope.

[*Chris*]

I've been in touch now with the FA parties for both Sweet Potato Pie and About a Rope. They've given me the go-ahead so I intend to do the work. Cheers.

[Stan]

Chris, I can help with the trails. Might be able to borrow a chainsaw, if needed.

[Leehammer]

I'll probably make it out. I've been wanting to clean both pitches of Fandango so might tackle that. Depends how ambitious I feel that day.

I tried to tackle the top of Light Fandango last year. It's a big job because the route kind of wanders all over at the top. If you dig up last year's thread you will also see that we got into to some "technical difficulties". FUN!

[theriault]

Like Dom said, I will be with him on upper tier scrubbing something. I also have a drill, bolts and an unlimited supply of axes, bow saws, sledge, hammers, picks, shovels... great army supplies. Let me know what's needed.

Marty

[Fred]

Hehe. No worries, I'm a pro cleaner. Did you see Waterwalk before I had my way with it?

[*Chris*]

Ok. Just a quick note:

The club has a limited amount of money that we'd be happy to donate to this effort. Materials, brushes, etc. If you'd like to suggest something you'd like to get reimbursed for please contact me directly. climb@unb.ca. We have a long-standing policy of not funding bolts or fixed hardware, so please, no requests there.

We are also able to donate a retired rope to replace fixed lines in bad shape (if needed). The top of Waterfall wall has been suggested.

[Adam]

Why doesn't the route go straight up to the top? I never really checked when I was doing it... Is the rock crap?

not sure of rock quality but IIRC the difficulty decreases dramatically the higher you go.

The route does go straight up. Needs to be cleaned and a tree branch probably is in the way especially if you fall up high. I think the best way is to traverse to the roof on Trouble with Lichen the other finish is lame in comparison. Honestly I think a double ring anchor on the top of Trouble with Lichen would suffice since Farewell can be accessed by clipping the last bolt with one rope.

That is Brent right? Are you suggesting we not add a bolt to the last one on FtA to create an anchor that removes the necessity to traverse? If you feel strongly about it going straight up, perhaps you'd volunteer to clean it and remove said branch?

[Adam]

That is Brent right? Are you suggesting we not add a bolt to the last one on FtA to create an anchor that removes the necessity to traverse? If you feel strongly about it going straight up, perhaps you'd volunteer to clean it and remove said branch?

ok it's too early i didn't read properly. so you agree the direct finish is not worthwhile, but most others seem to agree that the traverse is not ideal either. Brent, do you oppose adding a bolt to FtA so that people can rap down from teh top of it instead of finishing the traverse over to TwL?

[Dom]

Hey does anyone have the contacts for M. Dixon? He is the FA/FAA of of wile e coyote... If you do have it no need to publish it on this online forum (unless he doesn't mind) but you can send me a private message...

[Dom]

Why doesn't the route go straight up to the top? I never really checked when I was doing it... Is the rock crap?

not sure of rock quality but IIRC the difficulty decreases dramatically the higher you go.

The route does go straight up. Needs to be cleaned and a tree branch probably is in the way especially if you fall up high. I think the best way is to traverse to the roof on Trouble with Lichen the other finish is lame in comparison. Honestly I think a double ring anchor on the top of Trouble with Lichen would suffice since Farewell can be accessed by clipping the last bolt with one rope.

Are you talking about the branch from the birch tree behind the route?

If you are, I ripped it out this summer while hanging in my harness... I didn't want to go through the crux with that branch looming behind my back.

[*Chris*]

Hey does anyone have the contacts for M. Dixon? He is the FA/FAA of of wile e coyote... If you do have it no need to publish it on this online forum (unless he doesn't mind) but you can send me a private message...

Check your PMs Dom.

[Fred]

There used to be a small tree at the top of Farewell to Arms that is now dead. Without this tree the traverse to Trouble With Lichen is unsafe with ground fall potential, albeit it's very easy. The biggest problem with the traverse is not the safety aspect but it's a pain to clean draws since the anchor is not directly over the route. Unless someone seconds the leader it's not easy to retrieve your gear on rappel.

In my opinion, the business for Farwell to Arms is over when you reach the small ledge where the tree used to be. The climb straight up is on decent rock but probably goes at 5.0. There is a tree straight up at the top on the route but you would either have to add another lead bolt or use mixed gear which would change the original style of the route (i.e. sport route)

I think an anchor just above the ledge where the small tree is now dead would be ideal.

[Fred]

I'd like to add... The anchor should not be placed on the face before the top-out onto the small ledge. That would change the route IMO.

[STeveA]

I'd like to add... The anchor should not be placed on the face before the top-out onto the small ledge. That would change the route IMO.

I agree. The anchor should be somewhere near where the tree is/was.

[Adam]

duly noted. i had been thinking making the last bolt one of two for the anchor. will place above the ledge instead.

[Dom]

Rain Rain Rain, hopefully the weather improves!

[theriault]

Gore-Tex...




Marty

[*Chris*]

Boys, I've got the word that I'm going to have to be out of the province this weekend but rest assured, my work will be getting done.

[Dom]

Gore-Tex...




Marty

Cleaning lichen off routes is much harder when wet. If it's raining as much as it's supposed to,I personnally won't be cleaning. I will do it later on in November though!

On another note, Chris where do you intend to put the bolted anchor on About a Rope? On the same ledge as the tree or just underneath? IMHO, I think it should be on the same ledge as the tree... (we climbed it yesterday)

[*Chris*]

Gore-Tex...




Marty

Cleaning lichen off routes is much harder when wet. If it's raining as much as it's supposed to,I personnally won't be cleaning. I will do it later on in November though!

On another note, Chris where do you intend to put the bolted anchor on About a Rope? On the same ledge as the tree or just underneath? IMHO, I think it should be on the same ledge as the tree... (we climbed it yesterday)

Absolutely

[Adam]

yeah we should probably have a rain date. no one needs to go out and drench themselves for this event

so, if it rains how about we shoot for the weekend of the 20th? since the following weekend is a long weekend and people are more likely to be away.

[Adam]

yeah we should probably have a rain date. no one needs to go out and drench themselves for this event

so, if it rains how about we shoot for the weekend of the 20th? since the following weekend is a long weekend and people are more likely to be away.

http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pag ... ric_e.html

we're two days out and it is looking to pour all day friday, and more rain saturday, so things are gonna be soaked and not in the best form for scrubbing/trail work. i'm thinking we should call it so people can make other plans and take up the brush on the 20th instead. what say ye all?

[Dom]

http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pag ... ric_e.html

we're two days out and it is looking to pour all day friday, and more rain saturday, so things are gonna be soaked and not in the best form for scrubbing/trail work. i'm thinking we should call it so people can make other plans and take up the brush on the 20th instead. what say ye all?

I agree,

I won't be around on the 20th (Kentucky whaaat!) but I'll clean Wild E coyote and bolt an anchor on it sometime this year.

Last year I rebolted Telefunken just before December...doesn't need to be warm outside to clean a route...

[theriault]

I wont be able to make it either(on the 20th)...

[STeveA]

I just picked up a new drill bit so I will still retrobolt Looney Tunes wall. However, it may not be this weekend if it is as wet as they predict.

[Adam]

Ok so Saturday is looking cold but dry. I won't hold it against anyone if they don't make it out tho - 0' and flurries.

Hope to see some people out heh.

[Adam]

FFS - now it's calling for rain as well tomorrow.