G Spot topo

[seanT]

Here is the long awaited topo to the Gspot. Stay tuned more routes on the way.
G Spot Routes to date May 1st 2010
Starting from far left of crag
1.Bye Bye Beep 5.6 Sport 20m 2 Bolt anchor FFA.T.Foster
Work your way up big holds and cracks to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. Great first lead for the aspiring sport climber.

2.To Beep or not to Beep 5.10d Sport 30m 2 bolt anchor FA.S.Therien
This route starts on the fractured face right of route #1 climbs up to dripping wet gash the follows bolts up and right. The line looked awesome and called out for bolts but sadly the wetness of the gash and the proximity to route #1 have made this line less than desirable. Still waits for a free ascent. A fun variation has been done that starts on #2 goes up to gash,past gash then finishes by sharing some of the moves on #1 but goes up to higher anchor up right.
Also #1 can be done to the anchors of this line bumping the grade to 5.8
When the gash dries #2 will be a pretty cool semi hard line.

3.Slice and Dice 5.10a Trad 30m 2 bolt anchor FFA.S.Therien,D.Willsie
Stellar climbing up a slightly overhung dihedral on good holds to a terrifying block held in place by magic it seems. Follow crack to roof,bust right and finish up the perfect corner. Great gear, awesome positions, wild finish.
Named after first ascensionist nearly severed tip off thumb cleaning the route and the core shot his rap line took from a razor sharp block falling on it. OR it could have been named after those two super hot and sexy private eyes Slice and Dice!!

3.5 New route name unknown grade 5.9 bolted aerate FFA T.Foster


4.Exsanguination 5.10b Trad 20m. FFA S.Launcelot,M.Loydd
Scramble up to a bushy ledge then blast off up the crack. Take the pain till the crack ends then bust left to same corner finish as #3.

5.Parade of Whores 5.10 Sport 30m FFA S.Therien, T.Foster
A fun sport route that starts easy and just gets harder and harder til the bitter end.
This route takes you to the big treed ledge and the Upper Tier. Anchor only has 1 single rap bolt due to lack of battery power.

Upper Tier
Access these routes by climbing #4 then heading right thru trees OR rappelling in from the top.
6. Viva Las Vages 5.11+ Sport 15m FFA.J.Bayne aka DJ DYNO
DJ DYNO'S going away present to Nova Scotia a 5 bolt technical crimpfest of pain done in a heavy mist Dig it!
7.Throat Punched 5.10b Trad 15m FA S.Therien
Heinous wide crack with major pump factor. Beware of the guillotine like chockstone midway up.


Hollywood Bowl
8.Shes got a dripping crack 5.6 Trad 15mTree anchor FF A.D.Willsie,S.Therien
Climb the nice ramp plugging gear into the crack. A little bit of seepage at the bottom of the crack but a fun easy lead…till the gnarly top out..hehehehe.
This climb takes you up into the Hollywood Bowl a nice little wall with 3 routes on it developed by Nate Smith and Todd Foster.
The next 3 routes are in the Bowl.
9.Pimp my rack 5.10+…but hard and thin.Trad FFA N.Smith,T.Foster
This line follows weakness up left side of wall.
10.Name unknown 5.11+ Sport FFA N.Smith
Spicy climbing past 4 bolts ouch!
11.Name unknown grade..hard Trad FFA N.Smith,T.Foster
Follow weakness up right side of wall.
***Warning*** all 3 of these routes start off a bushy ledge and the belay is 1 smaller tree. A lead fall near the start of any of these routes could result in a factor 2 fall and certain injury or worse.

12.Your so hollywood 5.9+ mixed 20m FFA.T.Foster, N.Smith
Mixed climbing leads to a fun roof encounter.

The next 2 lines are 2 of Nova Scotia's longest routes so make sure you have a 60m rope and at least 14 draws.
13.Flake'n on the tard. 5.9 Sport 55m 2 bolt anchor FFA.S.Therien,T.Foster
Longgggg route with some serious rope drag, sort of like 3 mini routes. (Could even be done in 2 mini pitches. Bring a few big hexes/nuts) Wild. mmmmmcrux you are at…..

14.Phat Tuesday 5.9+ Sport 50m 2 bolt anchor FFA.T.Foster,S.Therien.
Hard slabbing leads to amazing climbing thru some mini roofs.Beware rope drag on this one. One of the regions finest lines with great views and positions.
Rapping from the anchors will bring you to a ledge where # 14 starts and where you can also walk off.

15.Belly Button Window 5.10b Sport 40m shares anchor with #13. FFA S.Therien.
Semi steep climbing leads to some slab and then a little alpine adventure.

Basecamp.
These routes are found right where the approach trail hits the wall
16.Skanks for the memories 5.8? Sport 20m FFA T.Foster
This route is supposed to be good but needs some major cleaning still.

17.Totally industrial Sport 5.11 20m FFA.N.Smith
Vertical climbing leads to a roof …thats right I said it a roof DO IT!

There is still plenty of room for development.
Bring many brushes and a saw.

[tintanium]

14.Phat Tuesday 5.9+ Sport 50m 2 bolt anchor FFA.T.Foster,S.Therien.
Hard slabbing leads to amazing climbing thru some mini roofs.Beware rope drag on this one. One of the regions finest lines with great views and positions.
Rapping from the anchors will bring you to a ledge where # 14 starts and where you can also walk off.

15.Belly Button Window 5.10b Sport 40m shares anchor with #13. FFA S.Therien.
Semi steep climbing leads to some slab and then a little alpine adventure.

I think it should read:

14.Phat Tuesday 5.9+ Sport 50m 2 bolt anchor FFA.T.Foster,S.Therien.
Hard slabbing leads to amazing climbing thru some mini roofs.Beware rope drag on this one. One of the regions finest lines with great views and positions.
Rapping from the anchors will bring you to a ledge where #15 starts and where you can also walk off.

15.Belly Button Window 5.10b Sport 40m shares anchor with #14. FFA S.Therien.
Semi steep climbing leads to some slab and then a little alpine adventure.

Props to Sean, Todd and Nathan and the many who wielded brushes at their direction. A terrific crag.

[pulldown]

Here is an image of the GSpot to go with the descriptions.

A few notes: This "Guide" will be changing this fall/winter, i'll be adding a bunch of routes this year.

If you are interested in putting up routes, let us know, there are still more routes to go up and we can help point you in the right direction.

Also, during one of the hurricanes this year a bunch of trees have come down. There is a large tree hanging over routes 16 & 17. Branches are currently blocking the anchors. It would be nice if the tree was cut down. Hint, Hint.

[mick]

Todd and I chopped the limbs off the fallen tree at the top of Totally Industrial/Skanks for the Memories today, so both routes are climbable again. Todd retrieved Willsie's draw from Skanks for the Memories and he's holding that for an undetermined ransom. Todd's new 5.9 from last week (#3.5 on the photo) is called "Teenage Burnout".

Today I cleaned and bolted a new route 5m to the left of Bye Bye Beep:

Cocksure 5.7 [S(3/2)] PG+ 13m FFA M. Levin, T.Foster
Follow thin rails up steep face to gain a run out lower angle arete with fun holds.

The GSpot topo is also on the Climb Nova Scotia website and will be kept current here: http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/2010/09/gspot-topo/

[pulldown]

Route #10 is called "Glamor Junkie".

[Nate]

Sweet topo/guide!

Sport route up on the Hollywood wall is called Glamour Junky and the trad route is called Melrose Place (5.10).

Nate

[mick]

Updated on climbnovascotia.ca

[seanT]

Awesome day at the GSpot perfect conditions for sending.
2 new lines went up
Mick Luvin put up a new trad line name...."Knowledge Enema"? i think grade 5.8?? Seconded by Nette.
route is wayyy down at far left of crag.

"The Old in and Out" 5.8 5 Bolts went up in the middle area close to Dave's route. ENJOY!!
Later...

[mick]

Over twenty routes up at GSpot!

As an aside, bolts do not guarantee safety. You should not just buy a rope and draws and hope for the best; lead climbing is serious business and you can get hurt or worse. If you don't know what you are doing you should take a course from the Rock Court or Ground Zero, or at least post up here and get someone to take you out who has more experience than you.

Yesterday we found a piece of webbing girth hitched to a bolt on Bye Bye Beep (the easiest route at the crag), that had melt marks on it indicating that someone had lowered off of it. This is incredibly dangerous. On a taller route or if you had lowered faster, the rope's friction over the sling would certainly have sliced through it and the climber would fall to the ground. Never lower off soft goods, always use a biner or maillon if you have to bail. Your life is worth more than $6.25, never mind the fact that you will probably get that hardware back since everyone in this province is so damn friendly.

[Fred]

It's possible the person rappelled and then pulled the rope causing the burn marks in which case IMO it would be relatively "safe". This would be similar procedure to an albacove rap on ice.

[mick]

If they had rappelled I agree that it would have been safe, but judging by the melt marks (on both sides of the webbing, rather than mostly on one side as I would expect with a pulled rope) I would say they probably lowered. It was only about 15 feet to the ground too. Also, I find it hard to believe that someone who had to bail off the 3rd bolt on a 5.5 sport climb would have the foresight to rappel rather than be lowered.

But hopefully you are correct

[seanT]

i once got lowered off a shoe lace Eiger Sanction style!!!!it was bitchin!

[Scooter]

Shoe lace? psssfft.

Twist tie baby!

[pulldown]

During that brief break in the rain we got out to G Spot again and managed to get up two more new routes. I think the count is now somewhere around established routes. I also took out my newest toy (Go Pro HD) and took some stills from the bottom of all the routes. I'll update the guide and publish it again in the next few weeks.

Sean's route (can't remember the name) goes up the face right of "Flaking on the Tard" It has great varied climbing and cool exposure towards the top. Definitely one of the top routes at G Spot.

My route is called "Peep Show" Grade ???? 5.9???? It goes up the face right of "Belly Button Window" starting in the descent gully from the rap ledge.


I can't seem to get the photos uploaded following the instruction on the "How to" so i'll try again after a few more cups of coffee.

[pulldown]

A little trail Maintenance i did while waiting for Sean to clean up his route. "Peep Show" is on the right face.

GOPR0242 by Bouldering.ca, on Flickr

Sean near the top of "Peep Show" where it meets up with "Belly Button Window" for the last two bolts.

GOPR0181 by Bouldering.ca, on Flickr

[seanT]

It was indeed a sweet day.
The new line next to Flakin on the Tard is 50M long with 10 bolts. There is a option for some gear but really not needed as the bolts are all well placed. There are however some substantial runouts in some places(easy climbing) so keep your S***T together! In keeping with the nature of the GSpot and due to the spiceyness of the line I have decided to call this route "Mr T's Wild Ride" feel free to hop on and take the ride.
Grade is 5.10 10 bolts. WORD!
Also Todds route PeepShow is definitly a worthy line and He should get some mad props for the trail maintence and terrace building he did in the approach gully!

[chameleon]

I'd like to also give myself mad props for my vision and hard work in making these two routes a reality.
Good work, man. What would these two bozos do without you?

[Matt Peck]

Has the crack in the dyhedral 2m left of cocksure been done yet? This might be what was described as Knowledge enema? about 14m, finishes to Cocksure anchors?

[Matt Peck]

bueller? bueller?

[mick]

Yeah I cleaned and put up that dihedral as Knowledge Enema 5.8G. Finishes at the anchors of Cocksure.

It's pretty fun but usually wet.

[Matt Peck]

Cool! Was just curious, it's a fun little route, lots of pro for the aspiring leader. Good job!
Thanks for the reply.

[seanT]

2 new lines went up at the Gspot earlier this week. Way down on the right hand side of the wall akaDaves magical fairy land Dave Wilsie finished his line Who needs viagra 5.6 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. looks really good.
Right at the top of the approach where the trail meets the cliff Leave it to Beaver also went up. 5.7 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. FA Beth Shaffenburg/Sean Therien/Todd Foster. It should be noted that this route was bolted(and partially cleaned) on lead so the bottom is still a little dirty.
Looks like its going to be a busy fall.
Sean.

[pulldown]

Correction. Dave's route has 4 bolts and might be a 5.7.

As a note for anyone going out to GSpot, we are cleaning and projecting a couple of routes right now. If you do not see a route listed here please consider it a project and give the people who cleaned it enough time to get the FA. It should not take anymore than a couple of weeks to finish the existing projects.

This has not been an issue in the past but because of the traffic at GSpot, and the increasing difficulty of the routes now going up, it's something to be aware of. Nobody likes having a project "stolen" before they have had enough time to finish it.

It's going to be a busy fall and we will try to get the guide updated as soon as possible (when the weather gets too flowery to climb

As for "Leave it to Beaver", it's a fun route, well bolted, but a bit dirty at the bottom so please get on this route. It needs the traffic.

[tintanium]

Around the arete to the right of Who Needs Viagra, "While You Were Sexting...", 5.6, 19m, T, FFA Dave Willsie and Elizabeth Gilbert. Right-leaning gear-eating diagonal crack, sharing an anchor with Viagra. And the rock's not hollow, it's just kind of...percussive.

[Matt Peck]

New variation at the G-Spot today, While working on getting the bolts placed for my project, Dave Wilsie and I combo'd the existing route with Parade of Whores to create a very aesthetic, clean running line that spices up the start of Parade but avoids the crux of the project. As it is a fairly good length of variation and is not at all contrived; I propose a new-route designation to avoid confusion in the future guidebook.

March of Saints 5.10 [Mixed, (S4/2rings)] 25M
FFA Matthew Peck/David Wilsie Nov 3 2011
Start as for Percussion, climbing through the first bolt and stepping left around the arrete after placing pro in the flake. Finish as for Parade of Whores (3 more bolts) Standard rack for natural pro. Directional is best placed at level of first bolt to direct for proper top-roping.

And just for clarity:

Percussion 5.11+ [Mixed, (S5/2rings)] 25M
FA Matthew Peck/David Wilsie Nov 3 2011
Begin 5m right of Parade of Whores in an offwidth cleft. Climb the out of the cleft via the finger crack to a ledge, and then on up to a bolt just above (hidden). Pull over the lip and climb the face above, passing natural gear and more bolts to share an anchor with Parade of Whores.
This route was bolted entirely by hand, and still needs a couple more to finish it/complete the project. Until that time March of Saints is a fun alternative.

[stoneseeker]

are these going to remain mixed routes? I thought mixed was against GSpot ethics!

hand drilling your bolts though, geez, no wonder. you don't want to put in a bolt unless you have to. If I was hand drilling routes that sh_it would be run out!!

[tintanium]

It is run out. And where it's not, it sure as sh%t feels like it is.

[Matt Peck]

Yep, gonna remain mixed. All of the natural gear placements protect really well, and there's no reason to place a bolt beside them. There's lots of other routes at the craig that go full sport if that's your thing. I usually will go full sport if there's only one or two pieces of gear, but this route has a couple of sections of multiple natural gear options, so I decided against it. There's also a sport route to the same anchors so you can toprope it to your heart's content if you don't want to lead on gear.
As for it being runout- that's usually the case with hand drilling, but Im bolting it pretty tightly considering. That's one of the reasons the route is taking a bit longer than normal to equip and finish. Once it's finished there shouldn't be any trouble with this route getting a g rating. It's wicked runout right NOW, but that's because there's a couple bolts left to place.

[stoneseeker]

thanks.
Let us know when its finished, I'd be keen to check it out.

[seanT]

Sounds like you are having a fun adventure. Thats what it is all about. Are you hand drilling on lead? Now THAT is hardcore.
SeanT