Anubis RIP

[Adam]

FTR, I have removed the bolts on Anubis. I did not have epoxy with me as I forgot it but will be up in the coming week to hide the holes. There is still gear there if you want to climb it but you did not need the bolts.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=4 ... =518333804

I feel this was prudent action based on the discussion in the community over the past year, and the action taken on Sticky Fingers earlier this year that attempted to draw a line in the sand. Anubis was on the wrong side of this line. So is Solstice, and this will be removed later this year.

Also, should be noted that I plan to fix the hole from the original bolt on Sticky Fingers, and will fix the one Cory left behind. Cory, if you want to join in the fun now that you're home you're welcome to.

[STeveA]

I would like to see you climb the route on gear only!

[Adam]

quite easily done considering there's an awesome crack within arms reach

[john]

I am glad you are going to expoxy the holes, that's good, that your vendetta does not affect everyone else.

Regarding solstice.

I did the ffa but did not bolt it and actually skipped all the bolts below the roof on the ffa. I think all those should go too. There is one stud with no hanger you may not notice nearest the roof. I would be happy if you chopped those. I did use the two above the roof and think you need them. I looked at skipping them too, which is dodable, but there is no real gear to speak of near them whic would make an otherwise G mixed route R and likely reduce future suitors.

Solstice is great and the hardest mixed route in atlantic canada. Leave the bolts above the roof please.

Cheers,


John

[STeveA]

quite easily done considering there's an awesome crack within arms reach

Like I said, I would like to see you actually climb the route. I know that I cannot reach the crack from the climb, but maybe your arms are longer.

[Adam]

Solstice is great and the hardest mixed route in atlantic canada. Leave the bolts above the roof please.

yes that was my plan. sorry for the ambiguity.

[Matt Peck]

Getting pretty uneasy about the bolt war arms race that's heating up again. Especially regarding "taking the initiative". Im going to ask the general community:
Would you, as the author of a route, bow to community input if the majority felt that the bolts on your route should be chopped? I think that's a question that needs to be asked here before we start vigilante chopping. If at all possible, can we all make an effort to be respectful to one another's routes?
I understand that your effort to make the community a safer place by placing bolts on sticky fingers was Flagrantly abused when Cory took i upon himself to chop them unbeknownst to you, Adam. But please lets not perpetuate the cycle. I think there's been enough WTF? questions regarding that prior incident to show that it was not in the community's best interest.
The Anubis bolts were an eyesore, and ARGUABLY not necessary for climbing the route itself. That said, was the author consulted on their removal? (Im just curious here Adam, looks like the info points to no in the above thread). The NB climbing community is small, and co-operation is necessary for us to thrive. I just hope we can all keep that in mind.

Matthew Peck

[Adam]

Would you, as the author of a route, bow to community input if the majority felt that the bolts on your route should be chopped?

yes

Im just curious here Adam, looks like the info points to no in the above thread

It was covered in the sticky fingers thread, and yeah honestly I'd say the community I know is happy they're gone. I had far more flack from originally retrobolting stickyfingers than for chopping these bolts. Once the tree was out of the way of the crack it was obvious to nearly everyone what needed to be done.

Our community is strong and I think these sorts of actions are inevitable. I don't think we need to call this a bolt war and getting people's backs up.

[Adam]

i guess the only thing i should have done differently in this case would have been to post my intentions beforehand. so from now on any such action i take (hopefully no more than solstice at this point) will be posted here and if there's sufficient opposition after discussion then i'll refrain. sounds like everyone is ok with solstice bolts (below roof) being removed but i'll post it anyway just make the example.

[Matt Peck]

Yeah, That's cool, really the opportunity for dialogue was all I was after. It may be that there is a lot of arguing back and forth to little result when this happens, but Im still for it. I don't disagree regarding the bolts on anubis being ugly and perhaps redundant (haven't climbed the route myself), I was just reacting to the fact that they were chopped apparently without prior notice.
The previous instances of "bolt wars" in welsford are pretty slim. About the closest thing to it would be the bolting/chopping of the route formerly (?) known as Teenage arrete. The phrase is a convenient title for the situation. I could have said "bolt spat" instead if that would be better.

[Matt Peck]

"Bolt Roshambo" maybe?

[anderfo]

Bolt attack.
Bolt combat.
Bolt battle.
Bolt march.
Bolt revolution.
Bolt dialogue.

Bolt truce.
Bolt armistice.
Bolt ceasefire.
Bolt everlasting ceasefire.
Bolt peace.

[Brian!]

I wish I could "Like" Ander's post.

[STeveA]

I still haven't heard from anyone who has climbed Anubis without using the bolt! Don't forget that those Egyptian mummies keep coming back, so don't count Anubis out yet.

[martha]

The previous instances of "bolt wars" in welsford are pretty slim. About the closest thing to it would be the bolting/chopping of the route formerly (?) known as Teenage arrete. The phrase is a convenient title for the situation. I could have said "bolt spat" instead if that would be better.

Don't forget about Fred getting shat on last year over the Bolts on his route... and then chopping them himself (against his own thoughts and those of many others) just so people would STFU.

[Adam]

I still haven't heard from anyone who has climbed Anubis without using the bolt! Don't forget that those Egyptian mummies keep coming back, so don't count Anubis out yet.

Steve, perhaps you should accept the fact that you're in a tiny minority who thinks those bolts should have stayed. I accepted the action against StickyFingers even if I didn't like how it was done... I suggest u do the same before re-adding bolts that should not be there.

[STeveA]

Other than a few vocal people on this forum, I have not heard anyone else suggest that the bolt be removed.

[Leehammer]

Just so that I understand what is going on here, the Anubis climb is not supposed to use that crack right?

[Adam]

Other than a few vocal people on this forum, I have not heard anyone else suggest that the bolt be removed.

Well this is where we voice our concerns so that they be heard on a community-wide basis. I've heard no one besides you suggesting that the bolts remain. We done with this yet?

[Adam]

Just so that I understand what is going on here, the Anubis climb is not supposed to use that crack right?

Yes, Anubis would supposedly NOT use the crack. You'd climb 6-8' of 5.10 bolted face and then finish on 5.6 trad.

Anubis was put up while a tree remained, blocking the crack that provided protection (even tho several other trees were removed around the same time - i do not know who removed which trees etc - but the one tree blocking the crack remained). Then someone took down the remaining tree and this left two bolts within reach of a crack that provides great protection.

[chossmonkey]

I still haven't heard from anyone who has climbed Anubis without using the bolt! Don't forget that those Egyptian mummies keep coming back, so don't count Anubis out yet.

Don't forget to recess your glue-ins.

[STeveA]

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7182347

[Adam]

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7182347

lol this is a great toy.

[PeterA]

Adam, you can return the hangers to me at the gym the next time your in

-PJ

[Adam]

sure thing Pete.

Cory, it'd be great if you could do the same for me.