New Routes

[Adam]

this is such a gay name!

checkmate!

[Adam]

Bald Peak is officially Mt Douglas, but is known by the locals as Devil's Peak. However, climbers named it Bald Peak and we have referred to it as such ever since. Not everyone uses the same name.

Bald Hill is listed on all maps as such, Paraglider people call is Cloudbase, and the climbers who have developed the area refer to it as Bald Hill, although it is also called Bear Mountain, but this is an inside name for those in the know. I do not know anyone who actially goes to the cliff that calls it Cloudbase, this is such a gay name!

FTR I've never heard Bald Peak referred to by any other name by climbers... which is why I find it inconvenient to use such a similar name for Cloudbase. Bareback Mountain and Balls Hill are very manly names i agree

[PeterA]

i've still not heard a reason (besides personal desire) to name it something other than cloudbase... it was named that before any climber went there. only a couple people have seen a bear there, and as Stacey says, it's too similar to bald peak, so why not leave it as cloudbase...? it's a nice name IMHO

How about the people who put the effort into developing the cliff don't want such a lame name attached to it by others?

-PJ

[PeterA]

Also. for the record, we met the paragliders and they don't call it cloud base, they call it bald hill. Cloud base was something else but I cant remember what it was now

-PJ

[Adam]

Also. for the record, we met the paragliders and they don't call it cloud base, they call it bald hill. Cloud base was something else but I cant remember what it was now

-PJ

granted u guys put the work in so i understand what you're saying.

'cloudbase'... well it's carved into a piece of wood up there that has like a poem on it about paragliding... so dunno maybe it was a subgroup of the vast NB paragliding scene that gave it the moniker. i prefer it b/c it doesn't sound like bald peak and i guess i must be lame and gay b/c i think it has a ring to it.

plus i just noticed it acts as a counterpart to 'sunnyside' in a couple ways.

[PeterA]

Also. for the record, we met the paragliders and they don't call it cloud base, they call it bald hill. Cloud base was something else but I cant remember what it was now

-PJ

granted u guys put the work in so i understand what you're saying.

'cloudbase'... well it's carved into a piece of wood up there that has like a poem on it about paragliding... so dunno maybe it was a subgroup of the vast NB paragliding scene that gave it the moniker. i prefer it b/c it doesn't sound like bald peak and i guess i must be lame and gay b/c i think it has a ring to it.

plus i just noticed it acts as a counterpart to 'sunnyside' in a couple ways.

It's carved into a second piece of wood as well near the top of the cliff, but I dunno if that one is still in readable condition. The whole poem was explained to me, but I didn't pay enough attention to retain the explanation

-PJ

[Nihoa]

you should compromise and call it bald cloudbear place.

[STeveA]

you should compromise and call it bald cloudbear place.

I think 'Bald Cloudbear' is Indian for 'where 2 rivers meet'. Baldhill is probably an old Indian climbing area, so may Bald CloudBear is appropriate.

[Adam]

and u thought cloudbase sounded gay lol

[Jon Corey]

[/quote]

Trundle Flakes 5.9? 10? PG 80' m(1)T
FA: J. Corey, F. Berube 2010
FFA: J. Corey, B. Turner 2010
Access from Pyramid area at Cochrane Lane
Found between Lady Dye and About a Rope. Climb onto a large ledge with several trees. From this ledge climb a crack past a bolt.
Traverse left and up through large flakes to a tree. There will be a chain added possibly this week. Enjoy.

Ben has added a chain on the tree 80' m(1)C
We'll wait for confirmation of the grade.

[Dom]

Trundle Flakes 5.9? 10? PG 80' m(1)T
FA: J. Corey, F. Berube 2010
FFA: J. Corey, B. Turner 2010
Access from Pyramid area at Cochrane Lane
Found between Lady Dye and About a Rope. Climb onto a large ledge with several trees. From this ledge climb a crack past a bolt.
Traverse left and up through large flakes to a tree. There will be a chain added possibly this week. Enjoy.

Ben has added a chain on the tree 80' m(1)C
We'll wait for confirmation of the grade.[/quote]

Hey Jon, when Cory, Greg and I toproped it the same day you and Fred did the FA we thought 10a was a good estimate for the bottom traverse... anyways I can't speak on their behalf, but I personally say 10a sounds rights... We'll see what others say

[Greg]

Trundle Flakes 5.9? 10? PG 80' m(1)T
FA: J. Corey, F. Berube 2010
FFA: J. Corey, B. Turner 2010
Access from Pyramid area at Cochrane Lane
Found between Lady Dye and About a Rope. Climb onto a large ledge with several trees. From this ledge climb a crack past a bolt.
Traverse left and up through large flakes to a tree. There will be a chain added possibly this week. Enjoy.

Ben has added a chain on the tree 80' m(1)C
We'll wait for confirmation of the grade.

Hey Jon, when Cory, Greg and I toproped it the same day you and Fred did the FA we thought 10a was a good estimate for the bottom traverse... anyways I can't speak on their behalf, but I personally say 10a sounds rights... We'll see what others say

Yeah I'd go along with that.............
Hey Dom, you forgot to mention about stuck rope potential on this route.

[Joe]

Kingston Lake 12 June 10:

"Chicken Little" 5.11c 60’ / S(5) / B(2). Joe & Dan Kennedy. Immediately right of "Another Drumstick", follows a very shallow groove. Previously known as "Nebakanezer". Thin moves and good footwork at the bottom, to huge ledges to the top.

"The Eider Section" 5.11a, 90’ / S(7)/ T. Joe & Dan Kennedy. Start up Medusa using 1st bolt, then trend left up the center of the overhanging, thin face to mature spruce tree. Was previously "Unnamed 5.12". Don't use the ridge on the lower section or you'll get in trouble. However on the final move I used the ridge because it's just so screamingly obvious. If you have the discipline to just use the thin face holds, it's probably 5.12.

[Fred]

A ton of new routes have been posted lately and I'm falling behind in the updates. Seems I'm not a keen as I used to be for this stuff or I don't have as much spare time. I'm worried that we will be losing some valuable information if I'm sleeping at the wheel. Is there anyone who would be interested in keeping the new routes log going?

Anal retentiveness is a must... OCD is a plus. Only serious individuals with too much time on their hands need apply.

[PeterA]

Send me the existing pdf Fred, we can do it.

-PJ

[*Chris*]

With so many new areas and new routes, I suggest something like MoutainProject.com 's route database might make a lot of sense. It would certainly relieve the strain on NB's librarian as people would be able to submit their own routes. Would also be a resource for future authors of printed guidebooks. Something to consider as an alternative. I'd be willing to help set up something like that either there or elsewhere.

Regardless, thanks for all your efforts Fred.

[Fred]

The only problem with using a third party website such as Mountain Project is you risk losing everything if they close up shop. As an example, Dr Topo is no longer.

I think what I've decided to do is something similar to the ice conditions thread. I'll create a new locked sticky topic that moderators can copy and paste the new routes info into. Then we can add as many moderators as needed.

[Shawn B]

In between Waterwalk and Boulevard there is a slab with a newly exfoliated crack. Route is normally wet but it is finally dry. Route is a bit contrived as you can easily escape left to easier climbing in the corner/crack of Waterwalk (but you don't have to go out of your way to avoid it). However if you stay true to the route it is very nice climbing with great footwork. Goes 7+ or 8 ish. Will have one bolt installed after the crack ends to protect the crux slab or the route won't get climbed. Still need some more good cleaning but it is currently climbable. Will clean and bolt asap. It is worthy of the effort.

Start as for Trundling/Waterwalk. Climb the (currently dirty/fuzzy) corner to the right of WW. When the corner ends (crack continues up and joins WW) step right on to the slab at the base of a shallow handcrack. Climb the crack to its end and continue up the slab staying right of WW finishing at the original BB anchor of Astroboy.

I'm assuming parts of it have been climbed before and the lower corner may have even been part of the original WW (Steve?). The last bit may have also been climbed as part of Boulevard. I couldn't find any record of the middle section (crack/slab) being climbed and the crack was not even discernable as a crack it was so plugged with dirt. Will be properly named and graded once fully clean, equiped and led (like all new routes should be). I didn't stick a roll of orange tape at the base to mark my territory but appreciate if others would hold off leading until complete (otherwise I won't complete it). TR away though if you want.

[Fred]

Nice work Shawn. I've seen that line many times on the way past and it looks sweet. It will also provide a nice start to a route that will enventually go up the vertical wall right of Astroboy. I think Adam is working on a line above there.

[Adam]

Nice work Shawn. I've seen that line many times on the way past and it looks sweet. It will also provide a nice start to a route that will enventually go up the vertical wall right of Astroboy. I think Adam is working on a line above there.

yeah i should be getting back out there soon to start work on it again.

how's that tree doing i planted at the bottom anyway?

[Andrew]

For The Thrill Of It All 5.8 G 65'/N/T(2)
FFA: A. Martin 28 July 2010
Found on Sunnyside Wall between Man Up Beaver and Celestial Motion. Follow the obvious crack system. Top out in the cleaned section. Two small trees for anchor. NOTE: A two bolt rappel ring station is to be installed on the vertical face.

Links to photos (HD-720p)

http://www.climbnb.mine.nu/pic/2010_07_28/thrill_wide.jpg
http://www.climbnb.mine.nu/pic/2010_07_28/thrill_tall.jpg

[Greg]

Here's a couple of new routes at Kingston Crag. Jester Wall is now done. One more project to go on Main Wall and then it will be complete too. Plenty more routes remain up for grabs at the upper cliffs.

Nothing But Air 5.9 70’ / S(5) / R(2)
FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.07.28
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.07.28
Furthest bolted line on Jester buttress. Delicate, balancy climbing up to the ledge near top of wall. After gaining ledge step left over chimney and continue up Main Wall through overhanging section on good jugs to anchor.

Cleopatra 5.11a 80’ / S(7) / R(2)
FA: S. Couturier 2009.05.30
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.07.28
Start is left of Odysseus on slightly overhanging face. Climb the crimpy face and continue through the most direct line of the main wall. Steep, sustained climbing with technical crux.

[Andrew]

** UPDATE **

2010.08.12

Two bolt rappel hangers with rings have just been installed on this route (on the vertical face). No longer necessary to use the trees. Also, this route is 5' shorter, now that it's unnecessary to top-out.

Please update the new route log to reflect these two changes.

For The Thrill Of It All 5.8 G 60'/N/R(2)

Thanks to G. Hughes for installing the bolts.




[quote="Andrew"]For The Thrill Of It All 5.8 G 65'/N/T(2)
FFA: A. Martin 28 July 2010
Found on Sunnyside Wall between Man Up Beaver and Celestial Motion. Follow the obvious crack system. Top out in the cleaned section. Two small trees for anchor. NOTE: A two bolt rappel ring station is to be installed on the vertical face.

[Greg]

Aphrodite 5.8 50’ / S (4) / T
FA: S. Couturier, M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2010.08.20
FFA: S. Couturier, M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2010.08.29
Start is twenty feet right of Monster’s Garden next to a right trending ramp. Staying on the face is 5.8 climbing; moving right to the ramp is significantly easier. Climb up to large ledge then continue up a short but steep section to anchor. Orange tape near the bottom denotes survey line not a project.

Nut Up 5.10a 40’ / S (5) / R (2)
FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.08.05
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.08.22
Same start as Odysseus but after clipping first bolt make a hand traverse up the right trending ledge. After clipping fourth bolt continue straight up through overhanging section on big jugs to anchor.

[Andrew]

Snakes & Arrows 5.7 PG-13 60'/N/T
FA: A. Martin 2010.08.19
FFA: A. Martin, T. Anderson 2010.09.09
Found on Sunnyside Wall 15' right of Black Dwarf. Start on a right facing narrow ramp and follow the obvious small crack system to the top. Top out and finish at tree anchor. Be solid on 5.7 trad as the gear is thin and far between.

Photos:

http://climbnb.mine.nu/pic/2010_08_19/01_SA_720.jpg
http://climbnb.mine.nu/pic/2010_08_19/02_SA_720.jpg
http://climbnb.mine.nu/pic/2010_08_19/03_SA_720.jpg
http://climbnb.mine.nu/pic/2010_08_19/04_SA_720.jpg

[Nihoa]

I'm having trouble picturing these rap rings from below or from the sides. Often when climbing and approaching the anchor the view is not straight on as in the provided photo and I would like to ask if you have images of these rap rings from different angles. For instance, if the anchor is set to the left or right of the last bolt on a route you could be coming at the anchor from both the side and from below which could lead to confusion if you are expecting to see the anchor as pictured.

[Andrew]

Did that remark add to this thread where people post new routes? Nope.
Do I like pictures, yes. Everyone likes pictures. No one likes a troll.

Clearly as shown in the photo, these anchors are attached to a white section of the rock wall by way of a thin layer of super-glue.

I'm having trouble picturing these rap rings from below or from the sides. Often when climbing and approaching the anchor the view is not straight on as in the provided photo and I would like to ask if you have images of these rap rings from different angles. For instance, if the anchor is set to the left or right of the last bolt on a route you could be coming at the anchor from both the side and from below which could lead to confusion if you are expecting to see the anchor as pictured.

[Dom]

Snakes & Arrows 5.7 PG-13 60'/N/T
FA: A. Martin 2010.08.19
FFA: A. Martin, T. Anderson 2010.09.09
Found on Sunnyside Wall 15' right of Black Dwarf. Start on a right facing narrow ramp and follow the obvious small crack system to the top. Top out and finish at tree anchor. Be solid on 5.7 trad as the gear is thin and far between.

Good effort on putting up a new route but PG-13 at sunnyside? Unless you put in some bolts to protect the run-outs, this route, IMO, is NEVER going to get climbed. You've got the first ascent so it's your call but don't you want others to repeat this route?

I climbed the 5.8 G routes (H-bomb and the other one) and lichen, dirt and spiders were all over these...so imagine a Pg-13...

Again this is sunnyside, if this was in CL it would be a different story..my 2cents

[Andrew]

Snakes & Arrows 5.7 PG-13 60'/N/T
FA: A. Martin 2010.08.19
FFA: A. Martin, T. Anderson 2010.09.09
Found on Sunnyside Wall 15' right of Black Dwarf. Start on a right facing narrow ramp and follow the obvious small crack system to the top. Top out and finish at tree anchor. Be solid on 5.7 trad as the gear is thin and far between.

Good effort on putting up a new route but PG-13 at sunnyside? Unless you put in some bolts to protect the run-outs, this route, IMO, is NEVER going to get climbed. You've got the first ascent so it's your call but don't you want others to repeat this route?

I climbed the 5.8 G routes (H-bomb and the other one) and lichen, dirt and spiders were all over these...so imagine a Pg-13...

Again this is sunnyside, if this was in CL it would be a different story..my 2cents

Dom,

Very good point and I agree With all this talk about where we are allowed to bolt or not bolt and with various members chopping bolts deemed unnecessary, I am a little hesitant to put too many bolts in.

I want to put a rap station on this route, as I did with "For The Thrill of it All". There is a tree above Snakes & Arrows but it looks like it will die soon. The other trees are pretty far off-center and such.

I also want to install a bolt to protect a potential ground-fall on the first 1/2 of the route. After that's installed, the route would be G-PG, only due to a section with very small gear on the top 1/2.

Once the rap station and single protection bolt have been installed, this route will be a nice route for those trying to get some experience in on 5.7 trad. Fun route with some very nice moves.

Given that Sunnyside is predominantly a sport crag, it seems that those plans would be acceptable. I hope most agree.

[*Chris*]

Andrew:
1. Whatever discussions happen about bolts tend to be about lead bolts. Anchors are different. Install it.
2. This is Sunnyside. Lead protection bolts seem to be acceptable.
3. You are the FA. As such it's your call. Even the most staunch champions of traditional theory would be forced to respect that.

Dom is correct. A PG gear route will go unclimbed at Sunnyside. The pure and obvious G rated cracks are seldom climbed as it is. I've been on them this year and I found essentially the same thing... dirt, lichen, and choss. Either way... it's your call.