Telefunken

[Shawn B]

Got my butt kicked by this route...now the multiple choice question.
a. Super sandbagged
b. Beta dependant with puzzling moves a demented 40+ can't figure out
c. I really am weak and a poor climber with no technique
d. All the above

Do people go straight up through the 4th bolt crux or are you out to the right of the bolt on that fin. I worked my way up and can barely get a little pinky down pocket above the roof but if that is the sequence it is way sandbagged. I flamed out and made it A0.

[Dom]

Do people go straight up through the 4th bolt crux or are you out to the right of the bolt on that fin. I worked my way up and can barely get a little pinky down pocket above the roof but if that is the sequence it is way sandbagged.

I go to the right on that fin and come back left. That way, I avoid the nasty perpetual wetness and I can actually see the holds I go for.
I have seen people go straight and it seems to be a harder ''blind'' pocket search...

And yes, whichever way you do it, 5.10a for that route is definitely sandbag!

[motanb]

Agreed gentlemen! 'Tele-funken' is likely sand-bagged IMHO... Likely 10+. I also climbed 'Strata-Factor Direct' recently and I believe that this climb is sand-bagged too; perhaps a soft 11 grade is a truer reflection?

[Adam]

i find the section after the bolts easier than the bolted roof. i go pretty much straight up and a little right from the last bolt, fiddle in some tiny nuts and pull one thinish move to the big undercling hollow flake.

i think 10c on the bottom section would be more accurate and 10a for the top part.

[Andrew]

I'm glad this discussion came up. I was only seconding for Greg K., but I found the bottom part near the roof extremely difficult. The top part was very enjoyable; however.

Definitely harder than 5.10a

[Dom]

Agreed gentlemen! 'Tele-funken' is likely sand-bagged IMHO... Likely 10+. I also climbed 'Strata-Factor Direct' recently and I believe that this climb is sand-bagged too; perhaps a soft 11 grade is a truer reflection?

I agree, I think Strata Factor Direct is even more of a sandbag... The first pitch is accurately 5.10c (says 5.10 in the Guidebook) but the 2nd pitch is harder than 5.10+ for sure. I thought the 2nd pitch was a number grade more than 5.10+...something like 5.11c...anyways that's my 0.02$. When I did it I swapped pitches with PJ and he got the hard one on lead. I had heard rumors and stories that the 2nd pitch was run-out. While doing it though, I realized the run-out sections are fairly easy and the crux is bolt protected so it's not intimidating or bold or anything...so the myth is BUSTED!

[PeterA]

I still say we abolish letter grades and call telefunken 5.10

As for Strata factor direct, that should be 5.11. Also, The runout sections (which weren't terribly runout, just enough to keep you interested) were easy, and any section that was hard was quite easy. I also found at least one piece of pro between each bolt, and an awesome cam placement between the last bolt and the anchors. Still sandbagged though

-PJ

[PeterA]

And to correct a ridiculous mistake on my part, when I said any section that was hard was quite easy, i meant any hard section was well protected

-PJ

[Fred]

Definitely a sandbag... go right on the fin.

Definitely an awesome route!!