Trouble with Lichen

[Dom]

Got on this route for the first time this weekend and it kicked my ass!

Is there a static short man's beta? I had to dyno for the sloper and came up short almost every time. (I'm 5'9 or 5'10 something like that).

So did something break off or is it simply sandbag or am I simply weak? (could be all 3 I guess hehe)?

[STeveA]

Nothing broke off. It is possible to climb on small edges to the right, but probably not easier than the dyno. Basically get set up and hit the sweet spot. I am 5'9".

[Pierre]

Hey Dom,

I can't believe what I'm hearing... Your pulling out the short card!

Pierre

[Adam]

you should be able to get your feet high enough that the dyno is doable. it's a big move but you can definitely do it.

[Adam]

you should be able to get your feet high enough that the dyno is doable. it's a big move but you can definitely do it.

scratch that, so that the dead-point is doable. you should be able to keep a foot on.

[martha]

I'm 5'4 and I've hit that move before (sigh, before I was old - mind you I haven't been on that route in years) with a kinda static, kinda dyno move in combination with the small holds. thank god I can hold on to crimps... get the feet high, lock off and giver!

[Dom]

All right, no short card I guess. I have to try and launch of those little footholds.

Just for the record, I think this route is harder than its neighbour Farewell to Arms...Maybe Farewell suits more my style?

[Adam]

All right, no short card I guess. I have to try and launch of those little footholds.

Just for the record, I think this route is harder than its neighbour Farewell to Arms...Maybe Farewell suits more my style?

must suit your style as i find farewell harder.

[Nihoa]

i got on this today with fred and was able to hit the dead point after finding some decent feet. @ 5'6'' im denying your membership to the short club. there were some feet chalked that i launched off a few times before finding two better ones. with the better feet i smacked it first go. now after complaining someone ticked the flowers out of bone machine and didnt clean them off i forgot to clean my two ticks off twl so if you were to go down in the next bit youd see what i used. kinda impossible to explain where/what i used but the feet that were chalked and i tried at first were both lower and left and right of the ones i found. the right that i ended up using was actually a pretty good flattened jib and left was just some slopey garbage but worked better for me.

[motanb]

This makes me think that perhaps Dean Potter has absolutely no skill , technique etc. what-so-ever..... And the only reason he achieves any climbing 'success' is do merely to lengthy genetics, without which I doubt he'd never achieve an articles notice.

[Dom]

This makes me think that perhaps Dean Potter has absolutely no skill , technique etc. what-so-ever..... And the only reason he achieves any climbing 'success' is do merely to lengthy genetics, without which I doubt he'd never achieve an articles notice.

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is 5'4'' (FA of la Rambla, many world cup lead wins, some 5.14's OS)

Lynn Hill is 5'1'' (FA of the nose, first woman to climb 5.14...)

Jean-Christophe Lafaille was 5'3'' (soloed 5.13's in the 80's, probably made the most incredible self-rescue in moutaineering history)

My point is height doesn't matter.

I think bouldering is different though and relies more on body type... For instance, Dean Potter probably has a harder time on some of those SDS boulder problems...

[Adam]

Jean-Christophe Lafaille was 5'3'' (soloed 5.13's in the 80's, probably made the most incredible self-rescue in moutaineering history)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Christophe_Lafaille

wow had never read up on the guy. CORE!

[Shawn B]

Short people climb...tall people reach.