New Mini-Guide - Cedar Point

[Stef]

Thanks again to everyone who put work in developing Cedar Point! It is a great new crag.

What is the bolted (mixed?) line, left of "Walk the Plank"? Has it been completed?

Cheers,

S.

[cory]

⚓ Happy Birthday to Me 5.8 100’/M(2)/B
FA: C Goodman, A Morgan, A Lyngvi Fougner Nov. 8/09
FFA: C Goodman, A Morgan, A Lyngvi Fougner Nov. 8/09
Just as the trail loops from the bottom of the granite blocks, follow 2 bolts to a series of vertical crack systems. Shares an anchor with Walk the Plank. Exactly 30m rappel.

[Fred]

Goodman:

This anchor may need maillons or chains. Currently it only has regular bolt hangers so we had to rap off a tree. Do you want me to add some on my next trip?

[cory]

Why would you use a tree? It's a walk-off. You can retrieve your gear when you exit at the end of the day. I know you have enough gear for the rest of the routes, though you have a tendency to forget pieces If you think maillons are necessary place some, but please use SS, since regular steel in contact with SS will cause corrosion on the SS. If you use maillons, you will not have enough rope to be able to rap off Happy Birthday... You could likely still make it down Walk the Plank.

[Fred]

I'll have to research it but don't think the galvanized maillons on SS hangers will cause galvanic corrosion of the hangers.

I think the anchor would be better with some form of rap rings. Otherwise, people will rap off the flimsy cedar trees. We did.

[cory]

see the table about half-way down (couldn't copy and paste it here)
http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml

Guideline for Selection of Fasteners based on Galvanic Action

Fastener Metal
Austentic
Stainless
(Types 302,
303, 304, 305)

Base Metal
Zinc & Galvanized Steel - The corrosion of the base metal may be markedly increased by the fastener material
Steel and Cast Iron - The corrosion of the base metal is marginally increased by the fastener
Note - Surface treatment and environment can change activity
Source - "Stainless Steel Fasteners A Systematic Approach To Their Selection" AISI 502-476-18M-CP

An inspection of 2 y.o. or older bolts without SS washers provides some visual evidence. If you lift a maillon to see what's exposed (provided it hasn't rubbed off from action) you can also see this.

[Fred]

ok. I'll just rap off the trees.

[Fred]

I took the time to read that table a bit closer.

In my opinion when galvanized steel is in the presence of stainless steel, the corrosion is accelerated in the galvanized steel, not the stainless steel. Both cases below, whether base metal or fastener is the SS, the corrosion is present in the galvanized not the SS. Therefore, galvanized mailons on stainless hangers should not accelerate the corrosion of the hangers.

Case 1 in table
galvanized steel base metal (hanger)
stainless fastener (mailon)
C - The corrosion of the base metal may be markedly increased by the fastener material

Case 2 in table (this is the case of typical hangers)
stainless base metal (hanger)
galvanized steel fastener (mailon)
A - The corrosion of the base metal is not increased by the fastner
D - The plating on the fastener is rapidly consumed, leaving the bare fastener metal
E - The corrosion of the fastener is increased by the base metal

Similarly, the corrosion of a galvanized steel bolt used with a stainless hanger would be accelerated. This explains the condition of many of the bolts in Welsford. Hanger is in great shape but the bolt is seriously rusted.

[cory]

You're the enginemaneer!

From what I gather, putting two dissimilar metals in contact with one another, especially in a conductive medium (saline air off the bay) produces a battery. This electric potential accelerates corrosive action. Is the preferential corrosion of one of the two metals due it's role as cathode (or anode) in said battery, and thus it's gain (or loss) of electrons that drive the corrosive reaction? Does the corrosion occur at the junction of both metals, only in one, or in both, but only marked in one?

We may need chemicular and electricular scienticians to explain this if you can't.

[travisrthomas]

Next time anybody is out to cedar point get in touch with me!

[Andrew]

Good bunch of us were out to Cedar Point last weekend. It was pretty awesome conditions and enjoyed the routes we got on. Thanks to those who worked hard to bring this area to the climbing public.

I have a question --

There is one or two more routes LEFT of "Walk The Plank 5.8" which is one of the 'climb-out' routes.

Can someone shed some light on if these routes are complete and their details? I know there was at least one bolted line left of this route.

The new routes section on beta-source mentions a couple new routes in Cedar Point but for some reason it seemed they might be on a different wall area?

Climb on!

[Andrew]

Okay, disregard my question.

Happy Birthday To Me 5.8 100' M(2) shares the same bolt anchor as for Walk The Plank. That must have been the route I saw with a few bolts on it. Also, this route and the snow fence route were found in this thread not on beta-source.

Any other new routes out there?

[travisrthomas]

Still looking to get out here!! live very close by have walked it many times and always wodered please let me know in advance ps: ther ticks are not infected had multiple tested ps your car will not be egged it is actually a very respectful trailer park and i coulde provide parking for a few vehicles as well as guarantee they would not be touched!! again get me out there!! and remember it is no more dangerous than at any other site!! please know your info before posting!!

[Dom]

I got Yodeling Yak clean yesterday.

I beleive it's the FFA and if it's not well whoever has it speak up now! hehe

So I'm posting this provisionally until further confirmation

The Yodeling Yak 5.12A G 70’/M(7)/R
FA: C Goodman Aug. 31/08
FFA: D Caron, T Melanson, A. Morgan
Around the corner from the arete follow the bolts past a series of slabs and overhangs. This is
really a sport route with a long runout on easy terrain after the last bolt. There is an optional
midrange cam placement half way between the top bolt and the anchor.

(description by C Goodman)

[JonA]

Two metals in contact in the presence of an electrolyte (salt) form an electrochemical cell. One metal becomes the anode and the other the cathode. The least noble metal becomes the anode and recieves the full brunt of the galvanic corrosion.

The greater difference in nobility between the metals, the greater the rate of corrosion. The relative sizes of the anode Vs. the cathode will also affect the rate of corrosion; however, in the hanger Vs. Maillon debate I doubt it has any effect.

Galvanized steel is less noble than most (if not all?) stainless, so in our case the maillon would become the anode and would corrode, not the hanger.


* Info gleaned from my Engineering Materials textbook, no guarantees about accuracy of information. If you die it's your own fault.

[cory]

Congrats Dom!

Thanks Jon.