Quiet

[Fred]

I think someone chipped the holds on Quiet. It felt even more difficult and painful than the last time I tried it 5+ years ago.

[martha]

Quiet is one of the biggest sandbags in Welsford. I love it though. Nothing like some crimpy/balancy to make my day. Also, just want to mention that I am thankful for small girly hands......a hold that Fred can barely use is a lovely deep 3 finger pocket with a thumb catch for me!.

I've got the moves dialed but ran out of gas and skin before a send. Next time!!!!

[Andrew]

re: chipping holds

I didn't chip any holds; however, last year, I got on this route and midway through I grabbed a nice finger pinch and it broke off as soon as I put weight on it.

That is a pretty hard route. What should it be graded?

[martha]

The guide says 11a I think but Quiet is harder than Montezumas which is graded 11c, (but is probably a 12a in real life), Farewell to Arms is a pretty solid 12a and Quiet is also harder than that (all this in my opinion) so I'd guess that Quiet is 12b or 12c.

I didn't see any broken holds on the route, Fred was making a crack about his age and weakness. Where in relation to the first or second bolt was this hold that broke? The route goes straight up under the bolts and stays that way to the top.

[Andrew]

Hold was in the last 1/2 of the route. Can't help any further than that.

[martha]

thankfully the last half of the route is the 'easy part'. so I don't think it made any difference. I didn't notice any anyways.

[Dom]

I think Quiet is a V4 boulder problem and I don't recommend a big weight difference in belayers to do it...

It's an awesome problem though!

[martha]

Yeah, V4 or V5 sound about right. Harder if you have to stop and clip bolts though, and given that no one is likely to hike all the way up there with a crash pad for one problem, it will probably stay graded with the YDS as a route and not a problem.