Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

[Andrew]

Hey everyone.

I haven't been climbing in Clifton in quite a few years. I'm planning on going up for a couple days and wondering if anyone's been there in the past year or so?

When I used to go, you could go to Eagle's Bluff and just drive your car in and park it... setup tents and camp out free w/o troubles, then walk up the 10min path to the cliffs.

ANyone know if this is still good? Meanwhile, I need to check my guidebook for that area and see if the directions to get there are good.

[Andrew]

...so no one's been to Clifton's Eagle Bluff in the past few years? Anyhow, from searching the forum and the net, it sounds like I can still camp at Eagle Bluff.

[Fred]

You should still be ok. That land is owned by climbers.

[Andrew]

Ya, I read that in the guidebook. Thanks for the info. Off to Clifton tomorrow!

Andrew

You should still be ok. That land is owned by climbers.

[Pierre]

Hey Andrew,

I'm hoping to get down there in August. Let us know how your trip went.

Pierre

[Andrew]

Pierre,

Trip went well.

Monday 19 JULY - Climbed around 3pm-5pm. Climbed Dirty Meat 5.10b 25' S(3)/R(2) lead. It started raining while we were on this route. It was hard so we took some time.

Tuesday 20 JULY - Climbed 11:30am-6pm as it was wet until then. Did 6 other routes. Practice Wall left and right. 5.7, 5.8, 5.10c, etc. Never got on any other walls. Darn rain.

From HWY-9, turn onto RTE-180. Drive a few miles in. You will see two metal gates on the left side. One of them goes to a huge pit. The next turn-in on the left after the 2nd gate is the first access point to the cliff trail. You can park a few cars and pitch a few tents there. If you go further up the road (not far) there are a few other pull-ins and spots for tents. I can't help you with those as I didn't use them. The trail is obvious. Once you start up it, there is a fork in the trail. If you go right, you get to the base of the cliff as you might assume and if you go straight, you end up on top of the cliff. I found the trad gear to be less than stellar and the rock to be more slippery/skatie than Welsford granite. The rock is more crystalline.

Right of the practice walls, there are many sport and mixed routes of 80-200 feet. Next trip I'll have to get in on some of these.

There are other climbing areas nearby - Fletcher's Bluff, Big Chick & Little chick(i think). There is a campground nearby called something POND.

Hope that helps.

It's a nice place and well worth going for a couple days.

Hope for no rain. This rock is slippery when wet.

PS: Most routes have rap rings at the top of some sort and a good # of them can be top roped from a walk-around.

[Dom]

PS: Most routes have rap rings at the top of some sort and a good # of them can be top roped from a walk-around.

The ''new'' Pierre doesn't toprope.

hehehe

[Pierre]

I only free solo now!

[Andrew]

Are you Pierre Arsenault who I met through Mike Delaney?

I led a good # of routes. Wish I had more time and it was less hot, but good times.

:twisted:

I only free solo now!