whos new route?

[john]

Who's new route on the left side of the totem, 3 bolts? The last 10ft are really cool climbing.

Is it intended to use the left side of the arete, specifically the large horizontal ledge. I found it the obvious way but if I went to far left it kind of would ruin it? What is intended? Also are you placeing a cam between bolt 1 and 2?

[Dom]

Cory G., Josh and I cleaned and bolted that in late March. The provisional name is Project Fluo as in a project and the fluo comes from the fluo tag that is on the first bolt. The day we set it up we didnt bring food or water up there and so after all the cleaning and bolting we were hungry so we came back down...

I'm in exams right now thats why I haven't had a chance to go back up there...So my question is did you send it even though there is a tag on the first bolt?

As for the intention on the route, we use both left and right side of the arete and yes we definitely put a cam in the horizontal crack in between the 1st and 2nd bolt...

[john]

Every time I see underlines and bolded text it make me feel like someone is yelling at me. It is as if I would not understand the intention of the text if the highlighting were not present?

I wasn't asking you for your reasoning or justification. I am happy for you, it looks like a neat route, I was happy to see a new hard looking line. Just curious who put in the work and where it went.

[Dom]

I was yelling

In retrospect it did sound harsh, sorry

Glad to see you noticed it...people rarely make it up there...hehe

You are right it is a neat route, and really exposed. Very sequency back to back boulder problems but on top of Cochrane Lane instead of being right on the ground like Montezuma's.

Hopefully we'll get it soon...if not we'll give you guys a heads up when it becomes an open project.

[Fred]

John:

In Dom's defence, it did sound like you climbed an obviously tagged project.

[Dom]

La tête dans le cul 5.12B G (grade unconfirmed) 80/M(3)/T
FA. A. Guimond, D. Caron 26/06/10
FFA Open Project

Formely known as Project Fluo. The first part of the route is shared with Rythm Sticks. Once you reach the ledge, embark on the wild arête of the totem block making use of holds on both side of the arête to top out the very sequency crux. Finish on the same Tree as DDT.

[Andrew]

Excuse me for butting in; however, question I have to pose.

If a person has a 'trad' route and it is still a project (still being cleaned or it hasn't been fully FA or FFA'd yet), can you 'tag' it? How could you tag it? Leave a nut or cam in on the first placement? Furthermore, can I go to Canadian Tire and buy a 'project tag' or what's the deal here? < that's sorta joke, but seriously, what would one consider an official 'project tag'?

[Fred]

Andrew: It's a mixed route so there are bolts.

[Holly Reid]

haha, I've never really thought about it but Andrew does pose a good question, if it was purely a trad line.

[*Chris*]

If it were a trad route it would have been lead ground-up, on-site.

[Dom]

Excuse me for butting in; however, question I have to pose.

If a person has a 'trad' route and it is still a project (still being cleaned or it hasn't been fully FA or FFA'd yet), can you 'tag' it? How could you tag it? Leave a nut or cam in on the first placement? Furthermore, can I go to Canadian Tire and buy a 'project tag' or what's the deal here? < that's sorta joke, but seriously, what would one consider an official 'project tag'?

Valid question for sure...I know in Lac Long Québec where there has been significant trad routes development in the last couple of years, route setters will tag a route with a small orange garden flag that they plant at the bottom of the route.

I don't know what's the ethics on tagging trad in Welsford though...

[jeremy benjamin]

Just spray paint the wall with your name, ex. Jeremy's project. Then after you send it you can cross that out and add the name and grade of the problem. Bright orange paint would probably work best.

[Andrew]

I don't have any spray paint, but I do have a touch-up paint pen for my old car. I could use that, eh?

LOL

Just spray paint the wall with your name, ex. Jeremy's project. Then after you send it you can cross that out and add the name and grade of the problem. Bright orange paint would probably work best.

[TG33]

I am pretty sure I climbed that in 2004 with Tom Anderson. Put a cam at the over lap and an orange tcu on the left side near the top. Big dyno is hard at the top.