New Routes

[Greg]

North of the Border 5.5 PG 200'/N/T
FA: G. Hughes 2010.04.17
FFA: G. Hughes, M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2010.04.24
Pitch 1 - Climb Up, Up and Away at Border Wall. Continue straight up passing UUAA tree anchor through three short headwalls. Belay off Spruce tree on ledge. 100'
Pitch 2 - At the base of the ledge climb the crack/large flakes that begins near two closely spaced spruce trees. Mantle up to large picnic ledge. 60'
Pitch 3 - Move belay up to base of final headwall straight up from pitch 2. Begin on diagonal crack system just left of Poplar tree. Climb this system following the weakness to the top. There is also a slightly more difficult direct variation. 40'

Vaccination Scar 5.5 G 40' /N/T
FA: G. Hughes 2010.04.17
FFA: G. Hughes, M. Couturier, L. Toron, K. McLellan 2010.04.24
On final headwall of North of the Border climb the crack system with large flake just right of diagonal crack system.

Tierra del Falco 5.6 G 40' /N/T
FA: L. Toron, K. McLellan, G. Hughes 2010.04.24
FFA: L. Toron, K. McLellan, G. Hughes 2010.04.24
Start ten feet right of VS at the base of right facing corner. Climb up to gain vertical crack that leads to a ledge. Continue up trending slightly right to top.

[cory]

The Taxman Commeth 5.9 G 90'/N/T
FA C Goodman & D Caron April 29/10
FFA C Goodan & D Caron April 30/10
(Minkey-King Arthurs Playground) From the ledge atop of Dash of Fall Memory (accessed by climbing Dash... or the 10 vertical feet of 5.0 with a large spruce and large pine growing out of it), climb the obvious hand crack as it trends leftward from the roof and thins to fingers a really fun, well protected 25'. Squeeze between the trees and continue up and left through easier terrain (an off-width with chockstones, low angle blocky section, and a final off-width) to top. Rap 20' to 'deja-vu ledge' (top of 5.8 for Style) then rap 90' to ground.

[coryhal]

Chatty cracks – 5.10b g /n/t 100 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Lucas Toron April/10

Climb lichen cream cheese on dawn wall. Head straight up from the anchor, over some mossy ledges, then up a corner system. Climb stellar twin cracks to the top. Variation, climb only the left hand crack at 5.11a.... best jam sequence in Welsford.


The Butterfly effect - 5.11a r/x /n/t 80 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Joe Kennedy May/10

Found on above down home wall, 15 feet to the right of the central dihedral. Climb up the overhanging wall up a series of diagonal sloping “ledges“, to a small corner, then up lower angled thin face to top. Very difficult and sparse gear, established ground up with no pre-inspection. We may try to get some pins in to take the death factor out of it.

[Fred]

I have updated the New Routes Supplement on Beta-Source. If anyone has posted a new route recently and it doesn't show up in the supplement, can you please let me know? I've been slacking lately.

[Fred]

Cory:

Where does your new route go with respect to "The Crush"? Left of it? Right of it?

[PeterA]

Hey Fred, just some updates to Bear Mtn

The TAHBL roof is typoed as the THABL roof.

Deception Dyke is now a 5.10 with 6 bolts, to a two bolt rap anchor at the lip freed by J. Adamson and P. Adamson. The topout move has yet to be done, I suppose it could be listed as a variation or something. But up to the anchors is great climbing

Thanks for keeping a record of all these Fred

-PJ

[PeterA]

also, that should be dike, not dyke

-PJ

[Fred]

Is deception dike sport or mixed? If sport, can you take a stab at best grade a,b,c,d?

[coryhal]

Fred:

chatty cracks is to the right of the crush, 15 feet or so. It is straight up from the lichen creem cheese tree.

[PeterA]

It's sport. Probably 10 c/d

-PJ

[coryhal]

another new route on upper dawn wall ( L-Shape )

Swarmed – 5.10d pg n/t 80 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley

From the tree anchor on dynamic duo, head up left over grassy ledges. Climb up the low angled face, a bit runout but only about 5.8, the smallest micro nut will work here. Pull the roof split by a finger crack and continue straight up to a tree. Crux is very well protected, great exposure.

Fred: i forgot to mention PJ and John Adamson have the FA of The Butterfly Effect top roped in 2009

[Fred]

By my latest count there are currently 106 new routes since the last guidebook. And I think there are couple new ones in Cedar Point that I didn't count and have not yet been added to the online mini-guide.

[coryhal]

another new route on upper dawn wall

Shock and Paw – 5.11a pg n/gear 60 feet FFA: PJ Adamson, Cory Hall May/10

Climb the flaring, lightning bolt, crack system found between Ziggy Piggy and Whiter Shade of Pale on upper dawn wall. The abundance of face holds allows this to go at a moderately easy grade. Build a gear anchor then traverse over to the Ziggy Piggy tree anchor. A full set of offset nuts are STRONGLY recommended.


thanks for keeping track of all these routes Fred, its good to know that route developement is still alive and well in nb.
And John Bowlts is a sweet line..

[Fred]

Nice work. I toproped the lightning bolt crack earlier this year. Super nice climb but was a bit disapointed that the big holds on the right were within reach. Nonetheless it's still a rad climb and glad to see someone did it free ground-up. At 5.11a did you climb it as eliminate without holds on the right?

Yeah John Bowlts is a pretty nice line. Did you onsight?

[Stacey]

Tercel Tower 5.10 G 80' /N/T

FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.05.14

This route follows the crack system in the center dihedral of Above Down Home Wall. Fun climbing, great moves, excellent protection on very clean granite. The route finishes with a 20 foot overhanging offwidth crack (crux) that requires a #4 or 5 to protect. Stunning line with great exposure and fabulous view from the top (especially at sunset).

[*Chris*]

that sound really cool. good work Greg & Stacey. Not a new route but I installed some rings on the tree at Salt n' Pepper / 5.8 FS today.

[coryhal]

we didnt eliminate any holds, just climb it as you see fit. the crux seemed to be at the top. it is definatly alot harder on lead as the pro is very trickey and somewhat blind, but very solid once you get it in. yea i onsighted john bowlts a few weeks ago... very tricky after the roof/through the roof

[Fred]

we didnt eliminate any holds, just climb it as you see fit. the crux seemed to be at the top.

Yeah that's what I found as well but just wanted to make sure your grade reflected the route assuming the weakest line and not an eliminate. It's a great line. As a side note, there seemed to be some nice climbing straight up above to finish on a short wall just left of the open book for Whiter Shade... check it out next time you are up there.

Also, if you are looking for a variation to the Whiter Shade open book, there is a short vertical crack up the left arete of the book that probably hasn't been done. Note a route but a variation...

[Fred]

Tercel Tower 5.10 G 80' /N/T

FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.05.14

This route follows the crack system in the center dihedral of Above Down Home Wall. Fun climbing, great moves, excellent protection on very clean granite. The route finishes with a 20 foot overhanging offwidth crack (crux) that requires a #4 or 5 to protect. Stunning line with great exposure and fabulous view from the top (especially at sunset).

I didn't think that would go at 5.6.

[Andrew]

These two new routes can be found around the corner from the existing Stairway routes on the right and situated near a large fallen tree.

Listing from right to left:

FA: A. Martin, E. Fox 12 Oct 2009
FFA: G. Kelly, A. Martin 16 May 2010
Diode 5.8 PG 45' N/T - Climb the clean streak starting with a smooth slab then moving over horizontal cracks finishing at tree anchor. Takes your smallest cams.

FA: A. Martin, J. Darrell 14 Oct 2009
FFA: A. Martin, G. Kelly 16 May 2010
Farad 5.7 PG 45' N/T - Climb the clean streak left of Diode starting with a small left going ramp. Move over horizontal cracks and clean face. Finish at tree with branch stub pointing straight out.

Photo from the trail of Stairway Right (Electric Avenue) of Diode and Farad (right to left)

[Stacey]

that sound really cool. good work Greg & Stacey. Not a new route but I installed some rings on the tree at Salt n' Pepper / 5.8 FS today.

Thanks Chris - it's pretty sweet...(awkward but sweet) haha...

thanks for installing the rings - - it'll be a great addition!

Stace

[Stacey]

Tercel Tower 5.10 G 80' /N/T

FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.05.14

This route follows the crack system in the center dihedral of Above Down Home Wall. Fun climbing, great moves, excellent protection on very clean granite. The route finishes with a 20 foot overhanging offwidth crack (crux) that requires a #4 or 5 to protect. Stunning line with great exposure and fabulous view from the top (especially at sunset).

I didn't think that would go at 5.6.

haha - - well the bottom was totally 5.6/5.7 haha - - THEN the dang offwidth hits you like a load of bricks...fun and awkward...but nope - no 5.6

Stace

[Jon Corey]

Trundle Flakes 5.9? 10? PG 80' m(1)T
FA: J. Corey, F. Berube 2010
FFA: J. Corey, B. Turner 2010
Access from Pyramid area at Cochrane Lane
Found between Lady Dye and About a Rope. Climb onto a large ledge with several trees. From this ledge climb a crack past a bolt.
Traverse left and up through large flakes to a tree. There will be a chain added possibly this week. Enjoy.

[PeterA]

Hey Fred

Could you change the name from cloud base on the new routes pdf to either bear mountain or bald hill?

-PJ

[Stacey]

Hey Fred

Could you change the name from cloud base on the new routes pdf to either bear mountain or bald hill?

-PJ

those poor para-gliders will be devastated if we go changing the name of their hill...
and Bald Hill is just too dang confusing with Bald Peak...

just saying

hehe

[Adam]

i've still not heard a reason (besides personal desire) to name it something other than cloudbase... it was named that before any climber went there. only a couple people have seen a bear there, and as Stacey says, it's too similar to bald peak, so why not leave it as cloudbase...? it's a nice name IMHO

[*Chris*]

Animals I've seen at Cochrane lane:

*squirrels
*sparrows
*pigeons
*goats
*sheep
*peregrines
*turkey vultures
*etc. etc. etc.

Now it wouldn't seem right to rename it Goat Cliff now would it? Just sayin'

[Nihoa]

chris, are you sure the goat best embodies the bolt nit-picking community at welsford? maybe go with the vulture!

Animals I've seen at Cochrane lane:

*squirrels
*sparrows
*pigeons
*goats
*sheep
*peregrines
*turkey vultures
*etc. etc. etc.

Now it wouldn't seem right to rename it Goat Cliff now would it? Just sayin'

[STeveA]

Bald Peak is officially Mt Douglas, but is known by the locals as Devil's Peak. However, climbers named it Bald Peak and we have referred to it as such ever since. Not everyone uses the same name.

Bald Hill is listed on all maps as such, Paraglider people call is Cloudbase, and the climbers who have developed the area refer to it as Bald Hill, although it is also called Bear Mountain, but this is an inside name for those in the know. I do not know anyone who actially goes to the cliff that calls it Cloudbase, this is such a gay name!

[anderfo]

Oh, I've heard that some girls think male NB climbers are cute when they argue about the name of the crag