Rumney kicked @$$. I (previously strictly a passionate pebble wrestler) may have seen the light as to why people rave about using all those ropes and harnesses and other awkward things that hinder your climbing.
So, first thing I did upon my return was head over to Eagles Nest to see just how trashy this place was, and to lead some of the sport routes that had double stars.
My question is, where are the bolts?? All the bolts from boomin' system to Guillotine were there, but as soon as you went around the corner to do some more climbing the bolts were no where to be seen. Specifically, "Gully Wall" and "Evening Wall Direct" (the one I was most excited about.)
Were the bolts taken out due to rust or something?? Are we allowed to replace them? If so, someone wanna come bolt Evening Wall direct with me?
There. the end of questions.
Oh, and as a quick aside...
After climbing in Rumney, which is (compared to the many west coast destinations I've been to) relatively close to here, I have to say I am mighty proud of the scene here in NS. I jumped on some routes and boulder problems that honestly felt quite inflated on the grade compared to what I'm used to here and out west. I actually had skin at the end of the day, and the climbing was easy by comparison to our minimalist and cryptic style of granite here. Nova Scotia climbers (thats you) are tough as nails. The rock in Rumney and Pawtuckaway was soft to touch, full of features and jugs (unlike here) and it was easy to onsight stuff that I felt was above my level.
In summary: Climbing in Nova Scotia with Nova Scotians has made me a better climber, and I felt confident to say to the Americans I met that this Island is full of some serious tough crushers, (even if they bicker amongst themselves a lot.)
